Hello,
I am currently planning a new build (my first), which is intended to have 2-3 residential units and will likely aim for an energy efficiency rating of 40+. Essentially, it could be called a multi-generational house. Initially, only 2 units will be developed (one on the ground floor and one on the upper floor), but in the future, a third unit is planned for the attic. I would like to leave the attic unit as a shell at first, but have all the connections, wiring, and so on installed. The goal is to avoid any further construction work later so that it can be used as a separate unit.
As far as I know, a separate residential unit requires the following conditions:
- Its own lockable entrance
- Its own electricity meter
- One kitchen connection each
- One bathroom connection each (toilet and shower)
I hope I haven’t missed anything here. If so, please let me know.
Now to my question: To plan a bit better, I would like to get an idea of how much an additional residential unit costs in terms of installing connections for an extra kitchen and an additional bathroom, as well as setting up a separate electrical circuit with its own electricity meter in the utility room. In other words, the extra costs you should budget for when turning a standard single-family house into a house with 2 or 3 units.
For now, I am only interested in the cost of the connections—that is, the potential for an additional unit—not the cost of the kitchen or bathroom fixtures themselves.
I hope you can help. Many thanks in advance for any comments and explanations!
I am currently planning a new build (my first), which is intended to have 2-3 residential units and will likely aim for an energy efficiency rating of 40+. Essentially, it could be called a multi-generational house. Initially, only 2 units will be developed (one on the ground floor and one on the upper floor), but in the future, a third unit is planned for the attic. I would like to leave the attic unit as a shell at first, but have all the connections, wiring, and so on installed. The goal is to avoid any further construction work later so that it can be used as a separate unit.
As far as I know, a separate residential unit requires the following conditions:
- Its own lockable entrance
- Its own electricity meter
- One kitchen connection each
- One bathroom connection each (toilet and shower)
I hope I haven’t missed anything here. If so, please let me know.
Now to my question: To plan a bit better, I would like to get an idea of how much an additional residential unit costs in terms of installing connections for an extra kitchen and an additional bathroom, as well as setting up a separate electrical circuit with its own electricity meter in the utility room. In other words, the extra costs you should budget for when turning a standard single-family house into a house with 2 or 3 units.
For now, I am only interested in the cost of the connections—that is, the potential for an additional unit—not the cost of the kitchen or bathroom fixtures themselves.
I hope you can help. Many thanks in advance for any comments and explanations!
Holzhäuschen schrieb:
The important point is the reference level – from where exactly is the height limit of 10.5 m (34.4 ft) measured? Honestly, I’m not entirely sure. The street level seems to make the most sense here, but I haven’t asked about it explicitly yet.
hanghaus2000 schrieb:
To @Felix85, where does the 10.5 m (34.4 ft) figure come from? I got that information from the town hall. I know some people there (city administration, building department), and they gave me this information regarding these new plots. Officially, this information will probably only be available once the plots are sold.
@hanghaus2000: Maybe I missed it, but I’d rather ask again quickly: if 30 cm (12 inches) for ceilings is too tight, what should I plan for instead?
It’s always good to know these basic guidelines, no matter which direction any planning might take me.
Tassimat schrieb:
Please share your floor plan 🙂 Will do as soon as I'm home and can access the files. For now, I can only write 😉
hanghaus2000 schrieb:
The question is whether two full stories and the knee wall are allowed? Sorry, I still have to pass on that for the moment.
Another question about insulation and the roof. During the discussion, I understood that insulating the ceiling of the upper floor (i.e. creating a cold roof) compared to insulating the roof itself (meaning the possibility to convert the attic) does not differ significantly in cost.
If that's true, why would anyone choose a cold roof at all? I mean: No matter how unsuitable a hip roof (or any other roof type) is for conversion, if insulating that space causes little or no additional expense, wouldn’t it always be better to preserve that potential?
Or is a cold roof so advantageous? So far, I’ve read that it "only" reduces heat transfer to the upper floor a bit. Okay, that makes sense, probably not a bad thing. But if instead I can maintain 1–2 rooms in the attic as potential for later use, that would seem more valuable—also considering the long-term increase in property value, right?
My assumption is that with increasing extreme weather events, maintaining comfortable indoor temperatures every day without air conditioning won’t be possible anyway (cold roof or not).
hanghaus2000 schrieb:
I’ll ask @11ant. Wasn’t there someone here who converted a duplex into 4 residential units? I assume you mean the thread 33918 that disappeared in February, where someone built a KfW40 wooden solid duplex with 2x2 apartments and a shared utility room together with his brother (basically a very similar concept to the "Fleischerhaus," just without an ineffective general contractor). I can’t find that one anymore, but here is another similar one:
https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/grundrissplanung-2x-kleine-Doppelhaushälfte-nach-kfw40.34062/
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
H
hanghaus20005 Jul 2021 14:03Felix85 schrieb:
To be honest, I’m not exactly sure. The road seems reasonable here, but I haven’t asked specifically about that yet.
I got the information from the town hall. I know a few people there (city administration, building department), and they provided me with this information regarding these new plots. Officially, this information will probably only be available once the plots are sold.
@hanghaus2000: Maybe I missed it, but I’d rather quickly ask again. If 30cm (12 inches) is too tight for ceilings, what should I use instead?
It’s always good to know such basics, no matter which direction the planning might go.Is there no zoning plan? It should be available for consultation or publication, right?Ceiling height can also work with 30cm (12 inches). However, it depends on the construction. Only when the structure is known can something be said. Often, precast concrete slabs are used, which adds about 5cm (2 inches). Or wooden beam ceilings can also easily be thicker. With your KfW 40 standard, the insulation will surely add a considerable amount to the height as well. With a 3m (10 feet) floor-to-ceiling height, you’re on the safe side. 😉
H
hanghaus20005 Jul 2021 14:1011ant schrieb:
I suppose you mean the thread 33918 that disappeared in February, where someone and his brother built a KfW40 solid wood duplex with 2x2 apartments and a shared utility room (basically a very similar concept to the "Fleischerhaus," but without an unsuitable general contractor). I can’t find it anymore, That’s exactly the one I meant. It’s a pity. They had built quite affordably as well.
H
hanghaus20005 Jul 2021 14:45The cold roof doesn’t make much sense in your design. We are talking about just 10 m2 (108 sq ft) of insulation.
The attic is not usable, except maybe for storage or technical equipment. You can’t even stand upright there.
The attic is not usable, except maybe for storage or technical equipment. You can’t even stand upright there.
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