Hello,
I am currently planning a new build (my first), which is intended to have 2-3 residential units and will likely aim for an energy efficiency rating of 40+. Essentially, it could be called a multi-generational house. Initially, only 2 units will be developed (one on the ground floor and one on the upper floor), but in the future, a third unit is planned for the attic. I would like to leave the attic unit as a shell at first, but have all the connections, wiring, and so on installed. The goal is to avoid any further construction work later so that it can be used as a separate unit.
As far as I know, a separate residential unit requires the following conditions:
- Its own lockable entrance
- Its own electricity meter
- One kitchen connection each
- One bathroom connection each (toilet and shower)
I hope I haven’t missed anything here. If so, please let me know.
Now to my question: To plan a bit better, I would like to get an idea of how much an additional residential unit costs in terms of installing connections for an extra kitchen and an additional bathroom, as well as setting up a separate electrical circuit with its own electricity meter in the utility room. In other words, the extra costs you should budget for when turning a standard single-family house into a house with 2 or 3 units.
For now, I am only interested in the cost of the connections—that is, the potential for an additional unit—not the cost of the kitchen or bathroom fixtures themselves.
I hope you can help. Many thanks in advance for any comments and explanations!
I am currently planning a new build (my first), which is intended to have 2-3 residential units and will likely aim for an energy efficiency rating of 40+. Essentially, it could be called a multi-generational house. Initially, only 2 units will be developed (one on the ground floor and one on the upper floor), but in the future, a third unit is planned for the attic. I would like to leave the attic unit as a shell at first, but have all the connections, wiring, and so on installed. The goal is to avoid any further construction work later so that it can be used as a separate unit.
As far as I know, a separate residential unit requires the following conditions:
- Its own lockable entrance
- Its own electricity meter
- One kitchen connection each
- One bathroom connection each (toilet and shower)
I hope I haven’t missed anything here. If so, please let me know.
Now to my question: To plan a bit better, I would like to get an idea of how much an additional residential unit costs in terms of installing connections for an extra kitchen and an additional bathroom, as well as setting up a separate electrical circuit with its own electricity meter in the utility room. In other words, the extra costs you should budget for when turning a standard single-family house into a house with 2 or 3 units.
For now, I am only interested in the cost of the connections—that is, the potential for an additional unit—not the cost of the kitchen or bathroom fixtures themselves.
I hope you can help. Many thanks in advance for any comments and explanations!
Ralle90 schrieb:
I’m really curious how you plan to handle the staircase. Usually, the stairwell is right next to the exterior wall. But that wouldn’t work here since the staircase in the attic needs to extend more towards the center. Doesn’t that waste too much space for the stairs? Sorry, I completely forgot to mention that earlier. In my plan, the stairwell is indeed located next to the exterior wall. For the ground floor and first floor, that’s no problem anyway. The attic is basically the interesting part here.
Of course, I could be wrong, but here’s what I have in mind: The staircase starts at the exterior wall and then winds around before continuing straight towards the middle of the attic. Since the staircase slope should not significantly exceed 35 degrees (it could actually be a bit less), and the roof pitch above is also 35 degrees, I assumed both would align well. You basically go “with the roof” as you go upstairs. There should also be enough headroom to prevent bumping into anything. After about 3.5 to 4 meters (11.5 to 13 feet) of stairs, you reach the attic floor. I would like to have a stair width of 120 cm (47 inches)—though that’s not fixed, just a preference. This would mean a space requirement of about 4.5 square meters (48 square feet) in the attic for the staircase itself, excluding surrounding walls.
But as I said, this is just a rough plan from a layperson’s perspective. It’s quite possible the architect will point out issues later on.
Tassimat schrieb:
Huh? The residential units are stacked on top of each other. How do you plan to combine or separate them afterwards?I had actually considered this the main challenge during the planning phase. I wanted to build it so that this would be possible. In other words, without major structural alterations (maybe just removing the apartment door), it could feel like one to three separate units. I’m not sure yet if I will succeed, but my initial impression wasn’t entirely negative.I can upload the floor plans later. I have already quickly adjusted my roof structure. Although I haven’t received an answer yet to the question (here: ᐅ Unterschiedliche Ausführungen von Dachüberständen | Erfahrungen von Bauherren und Bauexperten (hausbau-forum.de)), I suspect that my assumption is correct and that picture 1 simply shows a clad knee wall. If that’s the case, my intended hip roof would look roughly like this:
In my initial sketches, for simplicity, I have always assumed 50 cm (20 inches) foundation walls, 50 cm (20 inches) roof thickness, 30 cm (12 inches) for floors/ceilings, and 20 cm (8 inches) interior walls (which will be relevant for the floor plans). I think this might be a bit generous, but for the first step, I preferred to estimate a few centimeters higher rather than lower.
Sorry, but the concept is simply nonsensical from every angle.
From the so-called revolutionary "modularity" to an apartment in the attic with a roof window, plus a staircase that first spirals and then goes straight, consuming the already very limited space in the top floor.
The all-in-one solution with a pirouette that you are planning just doesn’t work.
You either design a three-family house or a single-family house.
If I were you, I would take a few steps back and wait until your architect has time for you.
The plot situation also sounds a bit odd. It’s "quasi reserved," but you don’t even know where it is or what it looks like? The zoning plan / building permit is also unknown.
First, you should have a real plot with an actual zoning plan / building permit in hand, then you can start planning. Your brainstorming may be interesting to follow, but for your project, it’s a waste of time for now.
From the so-called revolutionary "modularity" to an apartment in the attic with a roof window, plus a staircase that first spirals and then goes straight, consuming the already very limited space in the top floor.
The all-in-one solution with a pirouette that you are planning just doesn’t work.
You either design a three-family house or a single-family house.
If I were you, I would take a few steps back and wait until your architect has time for you.
The plot situation also sounds a bit odd. It’s "quasi reserved," but you don’t even know where it is or what it looks like? The zoning plan / building permit is also unknown.
First, you should have a real plot with an actual zoning plan / building permit in hand, then you can start planning. Your brainstorming may be interesting to follow, but for your project, it’s a waste of time for now.
H
hanghaus20005 Jul 2021 10:16Please quickly tell me the house height again. I don’t feel like searching for it. Of course, you can also measure it yourself on your sketch. Is the knee wall feasible? You’re drawing one with about 1.5 m (5 feet)?
For design reasons, town villas are usually built with a roof pitch of around 20 degrees. A 35-degree pitch tends to look less attractive.
I’ll ask @11ant. Wasn’t there someone here who converted a duplex into four residential units?
For design reasons, town villas are usually built with a roof pitch of around 20 degrees. A 35-degree pitch tends to look less attractive.
I’ll ask @11ant. Wasn’t there someone here who converted a duplex into four residential units?
H
hanghaus20005 Jul 2021 10:26apokolok schrieb:
First, you need to have an actual plot of land with a valid zoning plan before you can start planning. Your brainstorming is quite amusing to follow, but for your project, it’s a waste of time at this stage. You are absolutely right. Only once the land is purchased should you come back here with the architect’s plans. That makes much more sense.
As we often see here, it’s counterproductive to show up for a meeting with an architect already having your own plans.
The architect would quickly explain how impractical a tent-style roof is for your requirements.
H
hanghaus20005 Jul 2021 10:57The ceiling height of 2.7 m (9 feet) is very optimistically planned. Who still wants ceiling heights of 2.4 m (8 feet) nowadays? Aside from that, how is the ceiling supposed to be constructed with a thickness of 30 cm (12 inches)? Generally, a floor-to-floor height of 3 m (10 feet) is commonly planned today.
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