Hello everyone,
We have been using the cooling function of our air-to-water heat pump for a few days now. At a perceived temperature of 38°C (100°F), we have 22-23°C (72-73°F) on the ground floor and 24-26°C (75-79°F) on the upper floor. I had hoped the cooling effect would be more noticeable.
On the upper floor, we have lowered all exterior roller shutters (made of aluminum). Downstairs, only where the sun shines through.
Are these good values or rather low? What are your experiences?
We have been using the cooling function of our air-to-water heat pump for a few days now. At a perceived temperature of 38°C (100°F), we have 22-23°C (72-73°F) on the ground floor and 24-26°C (75-79°F) on the upper floor. I had hoped the cooling effect would be more noticeable.
On the upper floor, we have lowered all exterior roller shutters (made of aluminum). Downstairs, only where the sun shines through.
Are these good values or rather low? What are your experiences?
O
Oetzberger19 Jun 2021 15:51_Ugeen_ schrieb:
We were told that this doesn’t work in combination with an air-to-water heat pump. Most likely, we were given incorrect information again. I don’t even understand how they came up with this nonsense. Probably only because of energy saving regulations or KfW requirements.
_Ugeen_ schrieb:
Hello everyone,
we have been using the cooling function of the air-to-water heat pump for a few days now. At an apparent temperature of 38°C (100°F), we have 22-23°C (72-73°F) on the ground floor and between 24-26°C (75-79°F) on the upper floor. I had hoped the cooling effect would be more noticeable.
... I’m curious about the "rotational speed" of your electricity meter 😉
R
Rorit202019 Jun 2021 20:25Well, with a proper air conditioning system, you can definitely bring in more cooling. The efficiency is similar, but more than 25 kWh (27 short tons of cooling) isn’t possible for me, otherwise the floor gets too cold (condensation...). A single-split air conditioner can do that in about 5 hours.
So, if you have enough time to cool the whole house with one device, you can also use an air-to-air heat pump. However, in that case, you won’t get dehumidification.
That’s something to keep in mind. I use about 5 kWh (5.3 short tons of cooling) per day (from the 140 m² (1507 ft²) solar panels) and over the past years, with sufficient shading, I was able to keep the temperature below 25°C (77°F) even in mid-summer. If you want more cooling, you’ll need to install a proper air conditioning system, but of course the electricity consumption will be higher.
So, if you have enough time to cool the whole house with one device, you can also use an air-to-air heat pump. However, in that case, you won’t get dehumidification.
That’s something to keep in mind. I use about 5 kWh (5.3 short tons of cooling) per day (from the 140 m² (1507 ft²) solar panels) and over the past years, with sufficient shading, I was able to keep the temperature below 25°C (77°F) even in mid-summer. If you want more cooling, you’ll need to install a proper air conditioning system, but of course the electricity consumption will be higher.
i_b_n_a_n schrieb:
I’m curious about the "rotation speed" of your electricity meter. 😉 That remains to be seen. We have only started testing all of this recently.
Zaba12 schrieb:
Nothing special, we have already seen similar values without cooling through the air-to-water heat pump. Most have already mentioned what should be done. Besides, are you really willing to run the air-to-water heat pump all year round?! If it’s not worth it, then of course not. We were promised cooling of 6–8°C (43–46°F) by both the home builder and the heating company.
Oetzberger schrieb:
Masonry walls (e.g., bricks or even better calcium silicate blocks) and reinforced concrete floor slabs. The roof is best insulated with insulation boards installed above the rafters, made of wood fiber. A lot of mass means a lot of thermal buffer. However, once it has warmed up, it’s too late—you have to consistently keep the windows closed during the day and maintain shading on the lower floors. Well, we have YTONG (aerated concrete blocks), the floor slab is concrete, and we have a ventilated roof (i.e., no insulation above the rafters or similar).
I have always said that if I build, it will only be with air conditioning. The air-to-water heat pump with cooling function was the only reason I decided against it. Now I will probably have to get a portable air conditioner for the really hot days.
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