Hello,
here I would like to share some experiences and data regarding my brine heat pump and deep drilling, based in part on the expert’s "questionnaire":
a) What is the soil composition on your property?
Up to 3m (10 feet) silty, fine sandy, clayey soil
Up to 4m (13 feet) slope debris, rock fragments
Then bedrock (mainly limestone)
b) How deep was the drilling?
Drilled twice to a depth of 72m (236 feet)
c) How much did the drilling cost?
€10,400 including double U-probes DN25
Grouting material with 2.0 W/mK thermal conductivity
Permitting process (building permit / planning permission)
Pressure-tight house entry at the basement and underground routing of supply lines (about 25m (82 feet))
Filling/draining equipment, filling, pressure testing, etc. (all inclusive)
d) How much did the system cost?
System: Tecalor TTc 05 with heating output at B0/W35 of 5.8 kW and coefficient of performance (COP) of 4.8
Cost: €9,800
e) Were there any difficulties during installation, if so, what kind?
Because the water used to flush out the drilled material during drilling seeped away, a "small compressor" was needed to blow it out with air. However, it had to be placed on a neighbor’s property who had not yet started building. The machine was the size and approximate weight of a 20-ton truck but was off-road capable. This caused a 2-day delay because the compressor first had to be transported to our site. No additional costs were charged.
f) How is the daily operation?
"Like a refrigerator." Once the parameters on the heating system are correctly set, the only thing that should be done is occasionally reading the information/data such as operating hours and source temperature. Otherwise, it runs "on its own," just like any heating system. When the door is closed, the unit is virtually inaudible. Very discreet since, apart from the cabinet in the utility room, nothing else is visible (all brine pipes are underground).
e) What are the operating costs for which living area?
Currently, a living area of 180sqm (1937 sqft) is heated, plus an additional 65sqm (700 sqft) of cellar space within the insulated thermal envelope (these rooms are around 15-16°C (59-61°F) on the coldest days). From September 2014 to September 2015, 2,000 kWh of electricity was consumed for heating and hot water (2 adults, 1 baby, 1 toddler). The house is a KfW-70 standard building according to the 2009 energy saving regulations, which already met the required technical standards before the central ventilation system with enthalpy heat exchanger was installed (we decided to add this after the initial applications).
f) to be continued ....
Note regarding the comparison of the coefficient of performance (COP):
Since optimizing the heating curve and settings at the end of last year, the system has had a COP of about 5.5. Operating hours are around 1200; the deep borehole was drilled approximately 20% deeper than initially recommended by the companies, at our own request.
here I would like to share some experiences and data regarding my brine heat pump and deep drilling, based in part on the expert’s "questionnaire":
a) What is the soil composition on your property?
Up to 3m (10 feet) silty, fine sandy, clayey soil
Up to 4m (13 feet) slope debris, rock fragments
Then bedrock (mainly limestone)
b) How deep was the drilling?
Drilled twice to a depth of 72m (236 feet)
c) How much did the drilling cost?
€10,400 including double U-probes DN25
Grouting material with 2.0 W/mK thermal conductivity
Permitting process (building permit / planning permission)
Pressure-tight house entry at the basement and underground routing of supply lines (about 25m (82 feet))
Filling/draining equipment, filling, pressure testing, etc. (all inclusive)
d) How much did the system cost?
System: Tecalor TTc 05 with heating output at B0/W35 of 5.8 kW and coefficient of performance (COP) of 4.8
Cost: €9,800
e) Were there any difficulties during installation, if so, what kind?
Because the water used to flush out the drilled material during drilling seeped away, a "small compressor" was needed to blow it out with air. However, it had to be placed on a neighbor’s property who had not yet started building. The machine was the size and approximate weight of a 20-ton truck but was off-road capable. This caused a 2-day delay because the compressor first had to be transported to our site. No additional costs were charged.
f) How is the daily operation?
"Like a refrigerator." Once the parameters on the heating system are correctly set, the only thing that should be done is occasionally reading the information/data such as operating hours and source temperature. Otherwise, it runs "on its own," just like any heating system. When the door is closed, the unit is virtually inaudible. Very discreet since, apart from the cabinet in the utility room, nothing else is visible (all brine pipes are underground).
e) What are the operating costs for which living area?
Currently, a living area of 180sqm (1937 sqft) is heated, plus an additional 65sqm (700 sqft) of cellar space within the insulated thermal envelope (these rooms are around 15-16°C (59-61°F) on the coldest days). From September 2014 to September 2015, 2,000 kWh of electricity was consumed for heating and hot water (2 adults, 1 baby, 1 toddler). The house is a KfW-70 standard building according to the 2009 energy saving regulations, which already met the required technical standards before the central ventilation system with enthalpy heat exchanger was installed (we decided to add this after the initial applications).
f) to be continued ....
Note regarding the comparison of the coefficient of performance (COP):
Since optimizing the heating curve and settings at the end of last year, the system has had a COP of about 5.5. Operating hours are around 1200; the deep borehole was drilled approximately 20% deeper than initially recommended by the companies, at our own request.
I have been running a ground-source heat pump very efficiently for about 7 years without an additional buffer tank. The screed has a thermal capacity many times greater than a small buffer tank, so it really isn’t necessary. The indoor temperature fluctuates by only about 0.5°C (0.9°F) at most during the heating season (even without an electronic room regulator).
Saruss schrieb:
I have a ground-source heat pump running very efficiently for about 7 years now without an additional buffer tank. The screed mass has a many times higher heat capacity than a small buffer, so you really don’t need one. The indoor temperature during the heating season (even without a weather compensation control!) only varies by about 0.5°C (0.9°F) at most.Alright. Well, a weather compensation control is usually responsible for handling temperature fluctuations, right? So that’s why it was removed 😉
annab377 schrieb:
Okay. Well, an ERR is mostly related to temperature fluctuations, right? That’s why people try to get exempted from the ERR 😉 Do you know anyone who has actually managed that? Serious question. I keep reading about it, but I haven’t seen anyone who has really succeeded.
N
nordanney18 May 2021 19:53annab377 schrieb:
Is it advisable to skip the buffer tank when using a brine-to-water heat pump?Definitely not.annab377 schrieb:
And is a high-performance storage tank with two double smooth pipe heat exchangers, e.g. from SHWT, usually sufficient?It depends on how much domestic hot water you need.Buffer tanks and domestic hot water tanks are completely different.
Tarnari schrieb:
Do you know anyone who has managed that? Genuine question.Yep. I didn’t install any in my heating system myself. The energy consultant had no objections, and the KfW doesn’t ask about it.annab377 schrieb:
Alright. Well, an ERV is mainly responsible for temperature fluctuations, right? That’s why people often get exempted from the ERV 😉 However, there are quite a few builders/heating contractors who tend to "impose" this on you (because it’s easier than properly planning and adjusting it => "as long as it’s warm").
If necessary, an already installed ERV can also be "turned off."
S
Strahleman18 May 2021 19:58annab377 schrieb:
Is it advisable to omit a buffer tank with a brine heat pump and would a high-performance tank with two double smooth tube heat exchangers, e.g., from SHWT, be sufficient? Definitely leave out the buffer tank, as well as any hydraulic separators or other unnecessary components. For the domestic hot water tank, you can install whatever you prefer, ranging from a smooth tube heat exchanger to a high-end stratified tank with a fresh water station.
annab377 schrieb:
Alright. Well, the ERR mainly deals with temperature fluctuations, right? So it’s better to get exempted from the ERR 😉 Getting the exemption costs money and depends on the caseworker. Generally, the chances of approval are quite low. Alternatively, you can install a wireless ERR (e.g., Heat it Z-Z-Wave) and just keep the ERR disconnected. This way, you avoid committing subsidy fraud if you receive any funding.