ᐅ 100m² House Floor Plan – Too Small?

11ant schrieb:

Oh, in which area is that required?

In the southern part of Baden-Württemberg, on the edge of the Black Forest.
Although the term "enlarged" needs to be put into perspective. At the eaves, 80 cm (31 inches) and at the gable, 70 cm (28 inches) are required. So only slightly more than what is commonly built nowadays.

I could imagine that the whole thing will be similar to the Town & Country Raumwunder in the South version.
There, I believe, a 1 m (39 inches) continuous perimeter is implemented, including a raised knee wall and a slightly reduced roof pitch. So it looks like a traditional Allgäu-style house.

Wandervogel85 schrieb:
I also need to check what the extra cost would be to raise the knee wall from 1.00 m (3 ft 3 in) to 1.25 m (4 ft 1 in) or 1.4 m (4 ft 7 in). Likewise, what the cost would be for slightly larger roof overhangs, as these are required by the development plan and I also find them quite attractive. I don't think I would change the ceiling height on the ground floor. With a room size of about 38 sqm (410 sq ft) for the living-dining room and kitchen, the space is still not so big that it feels too low. I almost hesitate to say this, but I don’t really like the high ceilings in old buildings. Maybe it’s because I’m more of a Hobbit size myself.

Changing the ceiling height is naturally a luxury upgrade – although if resale value is important to you, it could be an argument in its favor. Another idea to consider – if you stick with the Danwood & the Point model – would be to leave the roof open to the ridge on the upper floor, with visible roof beams. That’s also a luxury feature, but in my opinion it significantly improves the spatial impression. The net cost difference would likely be around €3,000 to 5,000 (about $3,200 to 5,400).

Of the three options, I would first adjust the knee wall (we raised ours to 150 cm (4 ft 11 in)) – in terms of price/performance ratio, this offers the most benefit on the upper floor. I’m also quite sure it will give you more flexibility in the bathroom to fit your desired larger shower without having to build over the staircase. For example, if you can move the bathtub 20–30 cm (8–12 inches) toward the exterior wall (which should be possible since the plumbing installation doesn’t require the thick bulkhead), you could shift the bathroom window northward, and possibly design it as a dormer or slanted window, using the space gained below for the shower. This window style might suit your region nicely.

Also consider a double casement window or a stairwell window – otherwise that area may be rather dark. The extra cost for a double casement window (triple-glazed with electric shutters) is around €2,200 (about $2,350).

Wandervogel85 schrieb:
I have my first consultation with Danwood on Thursday. Maybe there’s something nice in the “Family” series. Although the selection is a bit more limited, it could better suit my budget. I plan to do walls and floors myself, possibly all the tiling as well. So basically, technically finished.

If you want to add electrical installation (EL) yourself, the Family series is definitely a very good option – especially since the Family 104 has a very similar floor plan. However, you’ve probably read the “rules” for the Family program: no changes are allowed to load-bearing components (for example, your idea of building over the staircase wouldn’t be possible there), window positions cannot be altered (only height and type of opening), and the choice of sanitary fixtures and tiles is limited (you can remove them completely, but the credits won’t nearly cover the cost of installing plumbing through a German contractor). You are allowed to mirror the floor plan though.

The Family series is naturally much cheaper – even if you exclude the electrical installation from the Today series, the price difference is still at least €5,000 (about $5,350), and depending on final configuration, up to €10,000 (about $10,700) less expensive. Some options are significantly cheaper with the Family series (e.g., raising the knee wall to 1.5 m (4 ft 11 in) costs only €1,500 (about $1,600), but that requires adjusting the roof pitch). Ground-source heat pumps or air-to-water heat pump systems, KfW40 standard, etc., are also possible with Family.

Depending on the dealer and their relationship with Danwood, you might be able to request some exceptions outside the “rules” as special options – for instance, the roof overhang would likely be allowed in your case since it is required by building permit / planning permission. Otherwise, to my knowledge, it wouldn’t be possible with the Family series.

Wandervogel85 schrieb:

Still, I’m building my house not with the intention of selling it quickly, but to live in it as long as possible.

Then your nickname here is a sneaky deception 😉

Harakiri schrieb:

But out of all three options, I would first adjust the knee wall height (we increased ours to 150 cm (59 inches)) – in my opinion, this offers the best cost-performance ratio (in the upper floor).

For fans of increasing the knee wall height, two warnings should be considered: secondly, raising the knee wall also raises the "equator" or the separation line between the facade and the roof windows, and first, it regularly risks creating a full additional floor. A Flair 113 with its standard knee wall is already borderline, and this applies similarly to all direct competing models. Increasing the knee wall to 150 cm (59 inches) almost always leads to the necessity of enlarging the ground floor, at least in the two-thirds of federal states (regions) involved.

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Harakiri schrieb:

Changing the ceiling height is, of course, just a luxury feature—although if you place value on the resale potential of the property, that could be a valid argument. Another option to consider—if you stick with the idea of Danwood and the Point model—is leaving the roof open to the ridge on the upper floor, with exposed rafters. This is also a luxury feature, but I find it significantly improves the sense of space. The cost difference would likely be around €3,000 to €5,000 after calculating additional or reduced expenses.

Out of the three options, I would first adjust the knee wall height (we increased ours to 150cm (59 inches))—in terms of cost-effectiveness, this brings the most benefit on the upper floor in my opinion. I’m also fairly certain it will open up some options for the bathroom to accommodate your desired larger shower without having to build over the staircase. For example, if you can move the bathtub 20–30cm (8–12 inches) closer to the outer wall (which should be possible, since the installation doesn’t require the thick casing), you could also shift the bathroom window toward the north, possibly making it a dormer or angled window style and use the gained space at the bottom of the floor plan for the shower. Such a window style might suit your region quite well.

Also consider a double casement window or a stairwell window—otherwise, it could become quite dark there. The extra cost for a double casement window (triple-glazed with electric shutters) is about €2,200 (around $2,300).

If you want an energy certificate (EL), the Family series is a very good option—especially since the Family 104 has a very similar floor plan. However, you’ve probably read the "rules" of the Family program: no changes to load-bearing structural elements (e.g., your idea to build over the staircase would generally not be allowed), no changes to window positions (only height and opening type can be modified), and the selection of sanitary fixtures and tiles is limited (you can remove them entirely, but the credits won’t nearly cover the cost of installing sanitary fittings by a German company). You can mirror the floor plan, though.

On the other hand, it’s much more affordable—even when you subtract EL options from the Today series, the price difference is at least €5,000 (around $5,200) and depending on the final configuration up to €10,000 (around $10,400) cheaper. Some options are noticeably less expensive in the Family series (e.g., raising the knee wall to 1.5 m (59 inches) costs only €1,500 (around $1,560), but it requires adjusting the roof pitch). Air-to-water or ground-source heat pump technology, KfW40 standard, and so forth are also available with the Family series.

Depending on the sales company and their relationship with Danwood, it might still be possible to make some exceptions outside the "rules" as special requests—for example, your required roof overhang may be allowed since it’s mandated. Otherwise, as far as I know, that wouldn’t be possible with Family.

Thanks for the detailed answer.
I have my first consultation with Danwood on Thursday. I will bring up all these points then.
I’ve also looked at the Family series already, which is quite an option. Maybe the Family 119 then.

It’s clear that not everything can be done at once. I also can’t increase the ceiling height on the ground floor and the knee wall height at the same time. That would probably exceed the maximum ridge height allowed in the development plan. Of all the considerations, raising the knee wall would definitely be the higher priority.

We ultimately chose the Family 119, so if you’re ever interested in something along those lines, feel free to ask—although I only managed to fit a 100cm x 90cm (39in x 35in) shower in there. 😉

I don’t think you mentioned your maximum eaves height, but for example, with the F119 (standard ceiling height), 1.5m (5ft) knee wall, KfW40 insulation package, and a 30-degree roof pitch, you’d be looking at about 4.7m (15ft 5in) eaves height and just over 7m (23ft) ridge height.