Hello everyone,
we are building a KfW 40 house with a Viessmann Vitocal 200-S heat pump and an 8 kW photovoltaic system.
The heat pump is also capable of cooling. The upgrade would cost 1000 € (only the heating installer, thermostats extra).
Is it generally worthwhile to cool using the heat pump? Just because it can does not necessarily mean it is practical.
How fast does a room cool down? Underfloor heating systems are usually quite slow in response.
Or does it make more sense to invest in an air conditioning system and operate it with the photovoltaic system on hot days?
Thanks and best regards
Markus254
we are building a KfW 40 house with a Viessmann Vitocal 200-S heat pump and an 8 kW photovoltaic system.
The heat pump is also capable of cooling. The upgrade would cost 1000 € (only the heating installer, thermostats extra).
Is it generally worthwhile to cool using the heat pump? Just because it can does not necessarily mean it is practical.
How fast does a room cool down? Underfloor heating systems are usually quite slow in response.
Or does it make more sense to invest in an air conditioning system and operate it with the photovoltaic system on hot days?
Thanks and best regards
Markus254
We have both an air-to-water heat pump for heating and an air conditioning system. The HVAC technician explained during the briefing that the air conditioning system is basically a heat pump as well—just like the heating system. However, it uses three split units mounted on the walls that circulate air within the rooms, rather than distributing it through pipes in the floor.
We chose the air conditioning system instead of the special cooling function of the air-to-water heat pump. From most sources I’ve heard, on really hot days when cooling is needed, the 2-3°C (4-5°F) temperature reduction achievable through the air-to-water heat pump and underfloor heating pipes is often not enough. It was important to us to have effective cooling, especially on days above 35°C (95°F), because if it’s 37°C (99°F) outside, I don’t want the temperature indoors to be around 34°C (93°F).
We chose the air conditioning system instead of the special cooling function of the air-to-water heat pump. From most sources I’ve heard, on really hot days when cooling is needed, the 2-3°C (4-5°F) temperature reduction achievable through the air-to-water heat pump and underfloor heating pipes is often not enough. It was important to us to have effective cooling, especially on days above 35°C (95°F), because if it’s 37°C (99°F) outside, I don’t want the temperature indoors to be around 34°C (93°F).
Absolute priority number one should be to design a house in a way that prevents overheating from the start. It seems crazy to knowingly run into this problem and then install an air conditioning system.
If a heat pump can only cool by 2-3°C (4-5°F) and that is not enough, in my view, this is a major planning error.
If a heat pump can only cool by 2-3°C (4-5°F) and that is not enough, in my view, this is a major planning error.
T
T_im_Norden23 Apr 2021 21:46You mean the popular large window fronts that are then mostly darkened with roller shutters, blinds, or similar for most of the time?
I’d rather use air conditioning and keep the natural light and view as they were intended.
I’d rather use air conditioning and keep the natural light and view as they were intended.
N
nordanney23 Apr 2021 21:55Hangman schrieb:
If a heat pump can only cool by 2-3°C (4-5°F) and that is not sufficient, in my opinion this indicates a serious planning error. Objection: Looking back at the development over recent years, I believe the planning mistake was building in Germany. In Sweden, for example, summers are not as hot ;-)
At some point, heat will get into every house—planning or not. And then you end up with the problem that not only is the cold kept outside, but also the heat is trapped inside. At that point, only an air conditioning system helps.
Mycraft schrieb:
Since the attic can reach sauna-like temperatures in the summer, the COP drops drastically and the system consumes more electricity than necessary. So, if you want an efficient system, it either needs to be installed outside or the heat exchanger must be able to be freely ventilated with outside air in the attic.Yes, that sounds reasonable. Since we’re still planning to renovate the facade, it might be a good idea to have conduit pipes installed during that work, so we have the option later on. The bedrooms are on the upper floor. The final solution hasn’t been decided yet. How large should the conduit pipes be?
It could also be a ventilation system installed in the attic to help with cooling in the summer.
Should I open a new thread for this?
@kati1337
The only right decision. With today’s (intended) construction methods, without relying on special features.
The only right decision. With today’s (intended) construction methods, without relying on special features.
Hangman schrieb:Not everyone wants to live in a bunker. The focus of all these regulations (energy saving regulations and the like) is on the winter months to save heating energy and to avoid the dreaded CO2 emissions. However, this effect doesn’t reverse in summer (how could it?), so the heat gains remain inside.
The absolute top priority should be to design a house so that overheating doesn’t occur in the first place. It’s crazy to knowingly stumble into this problem and then install air conditioning.
Hangman schrieb:No, there is no planning error. That is what is possible without additional measures and only using the promoted underfloor heating cooling system, regardless of what the general contractor/developer/agent/manufacturer says. Purely from a physics standpoint.
If a heat pump can only cool by 2-3°C (4-5°F) and that is not enough, in my view there is a major planning error.
Schimi1791 schrieb:DN50 (diameter nominal 50 mm) is enough for each indoor unit. But you also have to consider the condensate drain. So if you’re already planning, you need to provide a bit more than just empty conduits.
How big should the empty conduits be?
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