ᐅ Tips Before Starting Construction – What to Watch Out For?

Created on: 18 Mar 2021 11:11
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exto1791
Hello everyone,

First of all: I’m not sure if there is already a thread like this, but nevertheless, I would find it very interesting to gather opinions, ideas, tips, tricks, etc., shortly before or during the construction phase, in order to avoid possible “sources of errors” that some homeowners made out of lack of knowledge.

These should mostly be “small details” that can be relatively easily changed or adjusted and don’t disrupt the entire plan.

We are not talking about:
--> I wouldn’t build a basement anymore
--> I would definitely get a garage in the future

But rather things like:
--> Make sure to install a conduit for the photovoltaic system
--> Wire your front door electrically to allow for technical upgrades later on
--> Install enough power outlets at certain spots to...
--> Have a water connection installed for an additional shower to create more options later

They can really be small things that bothered you afterward, that you would have done differently, but no longer have the chance to change, or that caused additional costs later on.
Topics related to kitchen, bathroom, or similar are also welcome.

We want to think of as many things as possible (which is of course nearly impossible and always depends on individual circumstances) — but surely some tips could still be helpful.

Looking forward to your input 🙂
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exto1791
19 Mar 2021 09:50
Maybe we are overthinking things because we want everything to be "perfect." The selections for fixtures and finishes are already decided, even though we haven’t started building yet — but we are probably an exception there 😀

All costs have been clearly outlined, and through many discussions and our own research, everything is planned reasonably well for our needs.

Actually, our only problem is that we just want to get started — which is probably why we are looking for anything we can do 😀

Now it’s a matter of waiting, drinking tea, and looking forward 🙂
bauenmk202019 Mar 2021 11:02
Seven1984 schrieb:

Well, the method used for bricklaying is ultimately one of the less relevant factors for you in the final result and livability/usefulness. Nobody notices it anymore and it doesn’t really matter in the end.
Structural stability is equally ensured with both methods. Wienerberger still has the dipping method approved. Other manufacturers don’t. So what? I would definitely use the energy differently ;-)

It does make a difference whether the adhesive mortar is applied fully across the surface or only sticks to the ribs of the Poroton blocks. Sound travels through the exterior wall. If you have a “holey” Poroton block with many air gaps, you will definitely have stronger “vertical sound transmission” compared to when each course of masonry is sealed with a (minimal) mortar layer.

In general, there are things whose impact you would never guess!
Recently, I configured a window because I’m taking care of the garage myself. The “soundproofing” option cost 11 EUR more... Small things like that, in my opinion, are not well communicated or you have to figure them out yourself.
Example:
Standard plastic door: handle is 400 mm (16 inches) long. Fits perfectly. Extra charge for a longer model. No, we can buy it and install it later ourselves. Now: the next longer handle has a different drilling pattern. Since we took the smallest handle, we can’t even upgrade to the next size without special custom parts. During consultation, they could have said: For an extra 20 EUR, choose the longer handle now, so later you can easily retrofit a long handle bar yourself at a low cost...
Or water pipes: If you don’t mention anything, they’ll install water pipes without shut-off valves. If I want to shut off water, I have to close the main valve. Or the outdoor tap: The pipe runs from the utility room to the outdoor tap and then to the sink/dishwasher. Want to shut off the outdoor tap? No, because then the kitchen loses water! Of course, the pipes run under the screed...
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allstar83
19 Mar 2021 12:28
Maybe check the following in advance to see if relevant
  • Basic planning of the outdoor area / starting with terrain / retaining wall / cistern and related earthworks, possibly clarify and coordinate directly with the shell contractor
  • Will areas be gravelled immediately?
  • Who is responsible for construction site cleaning and waste disposal during the build?
  • Is the crane location and possible road closure arranged?
  • Are frost-resistant outdoor faucets desired?
  • Is drainage necessary, for example, in front of the terrace?
  • Have the energy standards and subsidies been clarified?
  • Is everything clear from the zoning plan / building permit / planning permission? If not, ask the building authority. For example, in our case, exterior colors must be approved
  • Have all arrangements been made with neighbors, for example, regarding material storage? Otherwise, the construction workers will find their own space 😉
  • Are internet and utility connections clear regarding what services are needed and who is responsible?
  • Is the inspection chamber level with the terrain or does it need to be raised?
  • Are there any potential issues? For example, daylight for a neighboring window may be better arranged differently than a modern floor-to-ceiling style
  • Are roof windows pivoting type?
  • Can photovoltaic panels be installed while the scaffold is still up?
  • Are the details in the contract or offer really clear?
  • ...
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Seven1984
19 Mar 2021 12:42
bauenmk2020 schrieb:

It does make a difference whether the adhesive mortar is applied fully across the surface or only sticks to the webs of the Poroton blocks. Sound transmits through the external wall. If you have a "perforated" Poroton with many air gaps, you definitely have stronger "vertical sound transmission" compared to when each course is sealed with at least a minimal layer of mortar.
I didn’t want to start a discussion about this, but the Poroton is practically perforated anyway, so I don't think the small amount of mortar matters much. Do you have practical experience hearing a wall where the blocks are fully bonded over the entire surface versus one bonded only on the webs, after both interior and exterior plaster have been applied? Does one really notice a difference, or are we just talking theoretical values?
11ant19 Mar 2021 14:07
saralina87 schrieb:

Moreover, I believe that a 100% perfect solution doesn’t exist, or at best it might be perfect for about ten years. After that, tastes and personal needs usually change significantly again.

This really should be "pinned"—on page one of the scrapbook of all homebuilders who still write the confirmation saying "you only build once" above their door. Only those who are dead no longer change. End of one game is the beginning of another, meaning for homebuilders either "after building comes remodeling" or—often more sensible—"after this house comes the next house."
bauenmk2020 schrieb:

I thought I was already a “complicated” homebuilder, but even after construction, I took away many things from the general contractor (GC) group that could HAVE been done differently. For example, clarifying whether the Poroton bricks are dipped or rolled?

What do you mean by the “GC group”?
In fact, I don’t recall ever reading about the mortar application method in a construction scope of work. I recommend—regarding the unavoidable element of subjectivity, as I wrote here yesterday https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/wie-waegt-man-korrekt-zwischen-geg-und-kfw-55-40-und-40-plus-ab.38471/page-3#post-481437—laying the bricks in a continuous “mortar bed”: only this way are the hollow chambers of the bricks interrupted layer by layer—at least as far as we’re talking about unfilled versions. Unfilled and only dipping them in mortar effectively builds floor-to-ceiling resonance pipes (the longer the pipe = the lower the note)—and then someone complains about the unfilled bricks themselves, although the problem actually arises from the combination with the mortar application method. Yes, this really should be explicitly specified in the construction scope of work. I must admit—I watch installation videos like others watch medical dramas—that until yesterday I would have sworn that the dipping method was long outdated.
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exto1791
19 Mar 2021 14:14
@11ant – but it really depends a lot on personal preferences and attitudes.

We are building in our hometown (at least for my wife) – her civil servant job is located there – I work in the neighboring town and currently have no intention to change that. Both families live very close by, and we have a dream plot nicely secluded from the "hustle and bustle" of the new development area.

I seriously doubt that we (unless we divorce and completely turn our lives upside down) will build a house again in our lives. We have a very conservative attitude about that. Of course, never say never, but I think for that very reason we approach this project perhaps differently and more thoroughly than some other home builders.

I mean: if everything works well in the marriage, with the children, the building location, and the family around, why should I change? That’s not really clear to me... Nowadays, everyone talks about change – not standing still... Because of that, we see more divorces, no clear direction in life, drifting lifestyles, constantly changing jobs, and growing dissatisfaction since people still haven’t found their place in life...

Honestly, I personally want as few "big" changes in life as possible – there is nothing better than stability and consistency (at least for me) – so this is going to be my first and last house!! 😀

Especially: how often do you ever get a reasonable plot of land again in life with all the right conditions?

That’s why we won’t just settle for telling ourselves: "Oh, it’ll be fine" – "there’s nothing to do, if we don’t like it later or something goes wrong, then maybe next time" 😀