ᐅ Comparison of Geothermal Heat Pump and Air-to-Water Heat Pump
Created on: 8 Aug 2020 22:33
M
mjammjammjam
Starting point: In the builder’s cost estimate, an air-to-water heat pump Nibe F2040 with a 180-liter (48-gallon) hot water tank is listed. Additionally, there are electric towel radiators and appropriate insulation to meet KfW-40 house standards. This package is supposed to cost us €13,900.
After some research, I found out that ground source heat pumps have a higher annual performance factor. According to the builder’s catalog, the air-to-water heat pump has a COP of 3.6, while the ground source heat pump has at least 4.5. In this case, it is a Nibe 1255.
Even though I don’t yet know the potential price for the 1255 from the builder, I would like to ask,
I look forward to your answers, as a non-expert I feel a bit lost here (at least I do right now)...
After some research, I found out that ground source heat pumps have a higher annual performance factor. According to the builder’s catalog, the air-to-water heat pump has a COP of 3.6, while the ground source heat pump has at least 4.5. In this case, it is a Nibe 1255.
Even though I don’t yet know the potential price for the 1255 from the builder, I would like to ask,
- what you paid for any borehole drilling for the ground loops?
- how the running costs compare between air-to-water and ground source heat pumps
- what you had to pay for your eligible Nibe units
I look forward to your answers, as a non-expert I feel a bit lost here (at least I do right now)...
R
Reini123413 Jan 2021 15:33Air-to-water heat pump provides active cooling (without compressor)
Brine-to-water heat pump provides passive cooling (with compressor)
I can only share my experience with a brine-to-water heat pump combined with a horizontal ground loop after one summer of passive cooling. I have never used an air-source heat pump.
I set the brine pump to 5% capacity, which was more than enough. Electricity consumption per month was negligible, I estimate at most 5 EUR. We didn’t notice significant changes in actual room temperature, but the perceived temperature felt much cooler due to cooling from below. This was very comfortable with wooden flooring and almost too much with tiles. The cooling effect decreased as the summer progressed; by the end of August, it was barely noticeable.
Active cooling involves the compressor, which leads to significantly higher wear and tear.
I would definitely order it again.
Brine-to-water heat pump provides passive cooling (with compressor)
I can only share my experience with a brine-to-water heat pump combined with a horizontal ground loop after one summer of passive cooling. I have never used an air-source heat pump.
I set the brine pump to 5% capacity, which was more than enough. Electricity consumption per month was negligible, I estimate at most 5 EUR. We didn’t notice significant changes in actual room temperature, but the perceived temperature felt much cooler due to cooling from below. This was very comfortable with wooden flooring and almost too much with tiles. The cooling effect decreased as the summer progressed; by the end of August, it was barely noticeable.
Active cooling involves the compressor, which leads to significantly higher wear and tear.
I would definitely order it again.
Reini1234 schrieb:
Air-to-water heat pump provides active cooling (without compressor)
Ground-to-water heat pump provides passive cooling (with compressor) Actually, it’s the other way around :p
Our ground-to-water heat pump only started operating in October, so I don’t have personal experience yet. Based on what I’ve read, however, 3–4°C (5.4–7.2°F) cooling seems realistic.
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WilderSueden13 Jan 2021 18:55Fuchur schrieb:
exactly the other way around :pI just thought something wasn’t quite right.It’s clear that the cooling capacity decreases over the summer. In winter, heat is extracted for heating, so the ground is nicely cool during the first heatwave in June. During cooling, heat is added again. This means that heating in the first half of winter should be quite efficient.
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