Hello everyone,
As you can easily see in the pictures, I have a lot of electrical cables that required corresponding chases. Now all the cables are in place, and I need to close the large recesses, especially the big gap at the rear right in the picture.
Should I use the usual patching plaster (such as Knauf Rotband), or are there special materials that are more flexible and less likely to develop cracks over time?
To bridge cracks, I will of course incorporate fiberglass mesh or similar reinforcement.
It is also important to me that the filling material is strong enough to restore at least some structural stability to the masonry, which I don’t expect from Rotband.
Could I possibly use masonry or plaster mortar, or even cement mortar for this? Are NYM-J cables allowed to come into contact with these materials?
Thank you in advance and best regards,
Scami
As you can easily see in the pictures, I have a lot of electrical cables that required corresponding chases. Now all the cables are in place, and I need to close the large recesses, especially the big gap at the rear right in the picture.
Should I use the usual patching plaster (such as Knauf Rotband), or are there special materials that are more flexible and less likely to develop cracks over time?
To bridge cracks, I will of course incorporate fiberglass mesh or similar reinforcement.
It is also important to me that the filling material is strong enough to restore at least some structural stability to the masonry, which I don’t expect from Rotband.
Could I possibly use masonry or plaster mortar, or even cement mortar for this? Are NYM-J cables allowed to come into contact with these materials?
Thank you in advance and best regards,
Scami
face26 schrieb:
....and don’t be surprised if there are LEDs somewhere that blink or light up even when switched off... Dimmable lights controlled by the dimmer at or in the switch are also quite tricky. Flickering lights, here we go.
superzapp schrieb:
Is this a new build or a renovation of an older building? Based on the radiator, I think it’s an older building.
Gette094 schrieb:
What’s also important to me is if the filler material were so “strong” that it could restore some of the structural support to the masonry, even if only a little, which I can’t imagine with something like Rotband. No structural support will be restored here. Unless you reroute the pipes. How deep were the channels cut into the masonry and how thick is the wall? Why was this method chosen at all?
danixf schrieb:
Because of the radiator, I suspect an older building.Existing building, yes, but definitely not an older building with porous bricks. My estimate would be more like late seventies.https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
This is obviously a renovation in an older building. Your concerns and subtle amusement are really quite charming, thank you for the concern!
The house, built in 1976, is a bungalow—meaning no additional floors—with high ceilings. It originally had a fiber cement roof, which was later replaced with a metal roof, so there is hardly any structural load involved.
The slot visible in the photo is located in the hallway and is only that wide there; the opposite wall, also load-bearing and made of 24cm (9.5 inches) Poroton bricks, has only a small distance from the slotted wall. The next wall behind the slotted wall is also parallel, at just 2.5m (8 feet 2 inches) distance, and forms an outer wall made of 30cm (12 inches) Poroton bricks.
The slots themselves consist of 2cm (0.8 inches) plaster and about 2–3cm (0.8–1.2 inches) brick.
Regarding the issue of cable bundling: everything has been calculated and approved.
In principle, you would be correct if I had two living rooms, two kitchens, two bathrooms, and several children’s rooms, all of which would cause (and carry) a certain load, and if I bundled the supply cables for each of these rooms in the hallway.
In my case, however, with star wiring, there are four supply cables per room. So overall, compared to conventional wiring, the cables are not nearly as heavily loaded. The safe total cross-section per room is many times higher. Basically, 5x1.5mm² cables were installed; socket circuits with 2.5mm².
The electrical installation is generally generous and designed for high load capacity.
I would really appreciate it if we could return to the actual topic, which is closing the slot.
The house, built in 1976, is a bungalow—meaning no additional floors—with high ceilings. It originally had a fiber cement roof, which was later replaced with a metal roof, so there is hardly any structural load involved.
The slot visible in the photo is located in the hallway and is only that wide there; the opposite wall, also load-bearing and made of 24cm (9.5 inches) Poroton bricks, has only a small distance from the slotted wall. The next wall behind the slotted wall is also parallel, at just 2.5m (8 feet 2 inches) distance, and forms an outer wall made of 30cm (12 inches) Poroton bricks.
The slots themselves consist of 2cm (0.8 inches) plaster and about 2–3cm (0.8–1.2 inches) brick.
Regarding the issue of cable bundling: everything has been calculated and approved.
In principle, you would be correct if I had two living rooms, two kitchens, two bathrooms, and several children’s rooms, all of which would cause (and carry) a certain load, and if I bundled the supply cables for each of these rooms in the hallway.
In my case, however, with star wiring, there are four supply cables per room. So overall, compared to conventional wiring, the cables are not nearly as heavily loaded. The safe total cross-section per room is many times higher. Basically, 5x1.5mm² cables were installed; socket circuits with 2.5mm².
The electrical installation is generally generous and designed for high load capacity.
I would really appreciate it if we could return to the actual topic, which is closing the slot.
Joedreck schrieb:
Then, regarding the topic: chip off 20cm (8 inches) of plaster on each side of the groove. Then nail expanded metal lath over it. After that, apply Rotband in several layers. Let each layer dry thoroughly. You mean to first fill the groove layer by layer with Rotband; then, when I’ve roughly reached the level of the brick face, put the expanded metal lath over it and then cover it with, for example, lime-cement plaster or Rotband?
Similar topics