ᐅ Does hardwood flooring have only advantages compared to luxury vinyl flooring?

Created on: 20 Oct 2020 08:15
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Heidi1965
Originally, we planned to install luxury vinyl flooring in the living areas of our new build. I work in an office where they have this type of flooring, which I find visually appealing and very practical. Our painter is trying to convince us to choose hardwood flooring instead, with the following arguments:
- Natural product
- The price of hardwood is hardly higher than that of luxury vinyl flooring
- If there is a damaged spot, hardwood can be repaired; luxury vinyl flooring cannot
- Maintenance effort is supposedly not higher

Now we are a bit confused. What is your opinion on this?
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T_im_Norden
20 Oct 2020 13:44
If the design floor is not explicitly suitable for wet rooms, the manufacturer's care instructions usually state that it should only be cleaned with a damp mop.
KlaRa20 Oct 2020 14:17
Pinky0301 schrieb:

The problem with new builds is unfortunately that thick hardwood flooring and underfloor heating don’t work well together. The hardwood installed over underfloor heating is usually so thin that it can only be sanded once at most.

In new constructions, the thickness of the hardwood flooring is already specified in the bill of quantities (BOQ) when the screed is installed, ensuring that the finished floor height aligns properly with the rest of the usable floor level.
There are no issues with connection heights! It might be somewhat different in existing buildings, but even there, it is possible to adjust the transition between rooms before laying the hardwood so that you don’t have to “step up.”
The next question is: What exactly does “usually so thin” mean?
Which rule is being referred to? Are there possibly even standard requirements for the wood wear layer thickness in engineered hardwood flooring?
To answer this question, let’s take a look at DIN EN 13489. This is the applicable standard dealing with wooden floors, specifically engineered hardwood flooring elements.
There, under section 3.3, it states that the solid wood wear layer must be at least 2.5 mm (0.1 inches) thick before installation.
Under section 4.6.5, we even find information about “Renovation and Repair”!
Engineered hardwood flooring, it says, must be capable of being refinished at least twice.
Question answered.
Adding the (correct) comment from “nordanney” regarding thermal resistance to this brief assessment, there is nothing preventing the installation of hardwood flooring—whether solid or engineered—over underfloor heating!
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Regards, KlaRa
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Bookstar
20 Oct 2020 14:30
My opinion: Hardwood flooring is superior to vinyl flooring in every way. The only reason to choose vinyl is the variety of design options. In terms of price, they are comparable, with vinyl generally being slightly cheaper.

However, anyone who installs vinyl flooring with oak design (yes, that exists) really hasn’t thought it through.
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Nordlys
20 Oct 2020 21:41
Pros of hardwood flooring: authentic wood feel and appearance. It looks elegant, high-quality, yet cozy.
Pros of vinyl: price, suitability for underfloor heating, and better resistance to water as well as rough treatment, such as New Year’s Eve parties with dancing in high heels.
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goalkeeper
21 Oct 2020 08:08
I would definitely lean toward luxury vinyl flooring. We have the Modular One from Parador. It looks very stylish and so far has proven to be very durable with two young children, and it also has the Blue Angel certification – meaning no plasticizers are used.

In our old rental apartment, we had hardwood flooring and found the constant scratches and dents quite annoying – but if that doesn’t bother you, hardwood is also a good choice.

It always depends on what you want: a natural material that will develop its own patina over time, or a very resilient floor. In the latter case, you can look for luxury vinyl flooring with the Blue Angel certification from brands like Parador or Meister.
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Peter Silie
21 Oct 2020 10:50
nordanney schrieb:

I would agree with all points.
1. Wood instead of "plastic"
2. High-quality parquet (3-layer engineered parquet from reputable manufacturers with at least a 2.5mm (0.1 inch) wear layer) starting at €30 per m² (about $30 per sq ft) / no-name brands from €20 per m² (also good quality)
3. Parquet is natural. Dents or scratches are not really repaired—they just remain
4. Vacuuming is the best cleaning method. Damp mopping only when it’s really dirty.

Of course, sensitivity varies depending on the type of wood. I once had glued Wenge – the floor looked like new after years. Also, the wood color will change with light exposure. Light wood darkens, dark wood lightens. But that’s natural and ultimately a matter of taste.

I've had parquet for many, many years now (glued Wenge, floating maple, various glued oak types, once lacquered, otherwise just oiled) and I’m choosing parquet again in my next house. Even in the kitchen. Even with three children. Even with a Bernese Mountain Dog. It works without issues; no stains or major damage so far. But I don’t leave water, grease, or red wine standing on the parquet for hours.

No plastic on the floor (especially if it’s as expensive as "design flooring").

We have 3-layer engineered parquet, lacquered, with a 2.5mm (0.1 inch) wear layer. Can someone roughly estimate how often such flooring can be sanded? Maybe once after 10 years and then disposed of after another 10 years?

In the entrance area (maybe about 1 m² (10.8 sq ft)) the parquet doesn’t settle well; it’s a floating installation. The front door scrapes slightly. Do you have any ideas? Perhaps removing it and gluing it down? Or will it possibly settle by itself?

Thanks and best regards