ᐅ Should the hydraulic balancing and individual room control be deactivated?
Created on: 6 Oct 2020 12:15
G
Golfi90
Hello everyone!
Since the heating season is slowly but surely starting again, I would like to begin adjusting our heating system (Viessmann Vitodens 200W 13 kW).
We built to KFW 55 standard with underfloor heating.
I keep reading about the hydraulic balancing. I would like to check and possibly readjust it!
Our heating technician was very committed… but not much more than that! That’s why I want to check everything myself.
How do I readjust the hydraulic balancing?
I set all room thermostats to full power (room temperature to 30°C (86°F) for example) and then check the “sight glasses” on the manifold to bring all flows to the same level, or am I misunderstanding something?
Since we have a weather-compensated system, does that affect anything?
If the balancing is correctly adjusted, what should I do next?
I would like to deactivate the ERR (electric radiator valves). How do I do that? Can I simply unplug the motors? Would they then be fully open?
If the ERR is deactivated (whatever the procedure), how do I then regulate the room temperature? Only by adjusting the flow or return water temperature of the heating system?
I would like to keep the weather-compensated control (is that possible?). Then I guess I would have to adjust the rest theoretically via the heating curve, right? How does that work?
It would be great if some experts here could offer me a bit of guidance.
Since the heating season is slowly but surely starting again, I would like to begin adjusting our heating system (Viessmann Vitodens 200W 13 kW).
We built to KFW 55 standard with underfloor heating.
I keep reading about the hydraulic balancing. I would like to check and possibly readjust it!
Our heating technician was very committed… but not much more than that! That’s why I want to check everything myself.
How do I readjust the hydraulic balancing?
I set all room thermostats to full power (room temperature to 30°C (86°F) for example) and then check the “sight glasses” on the manifold to bring all flows to the same level, or am I misunderstanding something?
Since we have a weather-compensated system, does that affect anything?
If the balancing is correctly adjusted, what should I do next?
I would like to deactivate the ERR (electric radiator valves). How do I do that? Can I simply unplug the motors? Would they then be fully open?
If the ERR is deactivated (whatever the procedure), how do I then regulate the room temperature? Only by adjusting the flow or return water temperature of the heating system?
I would like to keep the weather-compensated control (is that possible?). Then I guess I would have to adjust the rest theoretically via the heating curve, right? How does that work?
It would be great if some experts here could offer me a bit of guidance.
Musketier schrieb:
However, it should be noted that what works in cold weather does not necessarily work during the transition period. Definitely. During the transition period, it is always either too cold or too warm. That’s why the advice is to wait and not rush to the heating system at the first sign of lower temperatures to try and supposedly optimize it. That doesn’t help at all.
Musketier schrieb:
In my opinion, it is a process of fine-tuning, and no heating engineer can do that for you. Again, yes, absolutely, especially since every house is completely different and also responds differently. The heating technician can only provide an approximate setting; the rest you have to adjust yourself. Or you can choose not to, which is entirely up to you.
T
T_im_Norden6 Oct 2020 15:44https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/zentraler-raumtemperaturregler-fuer-err-der-fbh.35503/page-7#post-417304
Hi everyone!
So, I had some time and started working on the heating system...
The actuators are still connected electrically!
But I was able to “turn them up,” and then they clicked into place... Is this a function to open the motors manually? Does anyone have these motors and can tell me something about this?
Then I adjusted the black star-shaped handles and set all the red floats to 1...
Is everything correct so far?
Or did I do something wrong?
I’ve attached the heating curve I set for you...
So, I had some time and started working on the heating system...
The actuators are still connected electrically!
But I was able to “turn them up,” and then they clicked into place... Is this a function to open the motors manually? Does anyone have these motors and can tell me something about this?
Then I adjusted the black star-shaped handles and set all the red floats to 1...
Is everything correct so far?
Or did I do something wrong?
I’ve attached the heating curve I set for you...
You can set the indicator on the actuators to "open," which will keep them fully open at all times and disable their function. I hope you noted where the shutters were positioned before you adjusted anything. I mention this in every thread here: don't just turn them randomly.
By turning the actuator heads, they move up and down. I have now turned it to the "up" position, which makes the red indicator on the actuator visible. Does this mean it is open? I'm not entirely sure based on the marking.
No, of course I didn’t take a photo beforehand... But I also suspect that our plumber didn’t adjust the flow rate at all...
Or are there any calculations he would need to have for this?
No, of course I didn’t take a photo beforehand... But I also suspect that our plumber didn’t adjust the flow rate at all...
Or are there any calculations he would need to have for this?
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