Hello!
Apparently, our floor plan, as we originally wanted it, is causing some practical issues.
We are planning a prefab house (9.42 x 9.42 meters (31 x 31 feet)) with a gable roof, knee wall height 1.60 meters (5 ft 3 in), and roof pitch of 25 degrees. At our request, the entrance is planned on the eaves side on the north.
We are actually happy with the ground floor. Our main priorities on the ground floor were an open living-dining area, a guest/workroom, and a guest toilet with shower. The utility room has a window that is located under the carport.
Now about the upper floor, which I like but is causing problems:
1. The door of the north-facing children's room opens against the window. Should it open into the room? Or open outward into the hallway, like the bedroom door is planned (why is it like that there…)?
2. The window in the master bedroom on the upper floor (south side) is planned without a roller blind. This is because a distance of 2.05 meters (6 ft 9 in) to the side wall with the roof slope must be maintained for a roller blind. In the current plan (open walk-in closet) the window could still be moved slightly. However, I wanted to close off the wall to the walk-in closet so that it is accessible from the hallway. According to my calculations, to fit the window there, the walk-in closet would have to be reduced by about 70 cm (28 inches), which is hardly possible.
Do you have any ideas for redesigns that could help us here?
Apparently, our floor plan, as we originally wanted it, is causing some practical issues.
We are planning a prefab house (9.42 x 9.42 meters (31 x 31 feet)) with a gable roof, knee wall height 1.60 meters (5 ft 3 in), and roof pitch of 25 degrees. At our request, the entrance is planned on the eaves side on the north.
We are actually happy with the ground floor. Our main priorities on the ground floor were an open living-dining area, a guest/workroom, and a guest toilet with shower. The utility room has a window that is located under the carport.
Now about the upper floor, which I like but is causing problems:
1. The door of the north-facing children's room opens against the window. Should it open into the room? Or open outward into the hallway, like the bedroom door is planned (why is it like that there…)?
2. The window in the master bedroom on the upper floor (south side) is planned without a roller blind. This is because a distance of 2.05 meters (6 ft 9 in) to the side wall with the roof slope must be maintained for a roller blind. In the current plan (open walk-in closet) the window could still be moved slightly. However, I wanted to close off the wall to the walk-in closet so that it is accessible from the hallway. According to my calculations, to fit the window there, the walk-in closet would have to be reduced by about 70 cm (28 inches), which is hardly possible.
Do you have any ideas for redesigns that could help us here?
I would also like to know where the additional 30,000 euros for a "city villa" compared to a gable-roof (country) house come from. Not that the builder might have included some extra upgrades under that term. After all, it basically involves a few more rows of bricks and then a hip roof or pyramid roof instead of a gable roof.
For me, it only cost just under 4,000 euros more than the same house with a gable roof. Given the small amount of extra brickwork and the fact that when replacing the straight wall of a full story, the knee wall is also made with different materials, it can’t be fully charged as such. So I don’t believe an additional 26,000 euros could be included in that.
For me, it only cost just under 4,000 euros more than the same house with a gable roof. Given the small amount of extra brickwork and the fact that when replacing the straight wall of a full story, the knee wall is also made with different materials, it can’t be fully charged as such. So I don’t believe an additional 26,000 euros could be included in that.
I agree with the previous commenters: first, clarify how the terrain will be shaped. Will the land be filled in, and if so, how? If this is just a suggestion or idea to show how your naturally sloping plot could be "leveled" by adding fill, you need to find out what is possible and what is not. This means that it is not always permitted to level a hillside property by building a massive retaining wall. And if it is allowed, you need to know who will cover the costs. If it is only a proposal of what COULD be done, then you will have to pay for it – and that can get expensive. In that case, I would discard the current design and come up with something that incorporates the slope in the planning – such as a basement partially built into the slope or some degree of terracing. In any case, a sensible design will look different.
If you get the plot graded and prepared so that you can build directly on it, then the situation looks quite different.
But I have the impression that you don’t know this yet. And if so, no one here can help you.
So for you, that means: check the site! And get a definite answer!
Once you know for sure how your plot will be prepared, you can consider how to deal with it – in other words, what kind of house makes sense there.
Right now, you are designing a castle in the clouds – and that could lead to a rude awakening.
So educate yourself – and only you can do that.
If you get the plot graded and prepared so that you can build directly on it, then the situation looks quite different.
But I have the impression that you don’t know this yet. And if so, no one here can help you.
So for you, that means: check the site! And get a definite answer!
Once you know for sure how your plot will be prepared, you can consider how to deal with it – in other words, what kind of house makes sense there.
Right now, you are designing a castle in the clouds – and that could lead to a rude awakening.
So educate yourself – and only you can do that.
L
LuiseRadiese22 Sep 2020 09:19Tolentino schrieb:
I would also like to know where the extra 30,000 EUR for the "town villa" compared to the gable roof (country) house come from. Unless the builder has included some additional upgrades under that term. After all, it’s basically just a few more rows of bricks and then a hip roof or pyramid roof instead of a gable roof.
In my case, that only cost just under 4,000 EUR more than the same house with a gable roof. Since the straight wall of a full story is being replaced, the knee wall also uses different materials, so it can’t be fully charged that way. Therefore, I don’t believe there could be another 26,000 EUR in that. Thank you, we will clarify that today. I remember we had the town villa in mind but rejected it immediately because of the disproportionate additional costs.
However, even if we were to switch to the town villa, the floor plan no longer seems optimal to me.
...I think that’s good!
Additionally, maybe keep in mind:
It sometimes seems as if you have to choose between a single-story gable roof with knee wall or a two-story urban villa with a tent or hip roof.
You can also place a gable, shed, or flat roof on two full stories.
Not that I particularly want to recommend one of these options, just so you don’t start the planning process assuming false “limitations.”
Additionally, maybe keep in mind:
It sometimes seems as if you have to choose between a single-story gable roof with knee wall or a two-story urban villa with a tent or hip roof.
You can also place a gable, shed, or flat roof on two full stories.
Not that I particularly want to recommend one of these options, just so you don’t start the planning process assuming false “limitations.”
Clarify the elevation of the plot and who will cover the filling costs.
- If the plot still needs to be filled, make sure it is suitable for foundation work.
- If it is not filled, clarify what you are allowed to build. A basement living area (walkout basement) is probably the more cost-effective solution.
Filling the plot to this height will cost a five-figure amount, and a higher one at that.
Take a look online for floor plans of this size, draw in furniture to scale, consider the tips you’ve received here, and ask yourself if you really need that many rooms. For example, a walk-in closet – if you have very different sleeping schedules, it can be useful; if it’s only there because it’s trendy, reconsider it.
Do you really need an office, or is it just a multi-purpose space used as a wardrobe, gaming room, or storage? Could it be arranged more efficiently? Standard floor plans are designed to fit four people and follow trends, but everyone is different. Review your room program again. Not just the number of rooms, but also the 4-meter (13 ft) high bookshelves, the sewing table, the 500 pairs of shoes you need to store in the wardrobe, the dog shower in the utility room downstairs, and so on. Make sure the tight spots that annoy you now don’t appear again. For example, you want a normally sized washbasin in the guest bathroom because you often splash yourself at your parents’ house, or you find the 85cm (33 inches) distance between table and wall too narrow. Then ignore the recommended 80cm (31 inches) – which many model homes don’t even observe – and try 95cm (37 inches), the distance you find optimal.
Revisit model homes once more.
Pressure and haste are poor advisors.
- If the plot still needs to be filled, make sure it is suitable for foundation work.
- If it is not filled, clarify what you are allowed to build. A basement living area (walkout basement) is probably the more cost-effective solution.
Filling the plot to this height will cost a five-figure amount, and a higher one at that.
Take a look online for floor plans of this size, draw in furniture to scale, consider the tips you’ve received here, and ask yourself if you really need that many rooms. For example, a walk-in closet – if you have very different sleeping schedules, it can be useful; if it’s only there because it’s trendy, reconsider it.
Do you really need an office, or is it just a multi-purpose space used as a wardrobe, gaming room, or storage? Could it be arranged more efficiently? Standard floor plans are designed to fit four people and follow trends, but everyone is different. Review your room program again. Not just the number of rooms, but also the 4-meter (13 ft) high bookshelves, the sewing table, the 500 pairs of shoes you need to store in the wardrobe, the dog shower in the utility room downstairs, and so on. Make sure the tight spots that annoy you now don’t appear again. For example, you want a normally sized washbasin in the guest bathroom because you often splash yourself at your parents’ house, or you find the 85cm (33 inches) distance between table and wall too narrow. Then ignore the recommended 80cm (31 inches) – which many model homes don’t even observe – and try 95cm (37 inches), the distance you find optimal.
Revisit model homes once more.
Pressure and haste are poor advisors.
L
LuiseRadiese22 Sep 2020 09:52face26 schrieb:
...I think that’s good!
Additionally, maybe this:
It somewhat seems as if the choice has to be between a single-story gable roof with a knee wall or a two-story townhouse with a tent or hip roof.
You can also have a gable, shed, or flat roof on two full stories.
Not that I’m particularly recommending one of these options, just so that when you’re starting to consider it, you don’t assume incorrect “limitations.” Yes, that’s also the offer from Bien-Zenker. An upgrade to a townhouse actually costs 30,000 euros more with them. The walls are raised to 3m (10 feet), and the hip roof is significantly more expensive. The suggestion is to raise the knee wall to 1.80 or 2.00m (6 or 6.5 feet). The cost is about 1,000 euros per 10cm (4 inches).
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