ᐅ Oil heating system approximately 25 years old, storage tank defective
Created on: 26 Jul 2020 09:01
H
hd45899
Hello.
We have purchased an old house and have now found that the storage tank is defective. It is a zinc tank with an internal hot water storage.
Since we plan to demolish the house in about 5 years, I only want to invest as little as necessary. Still, heating with electricity is not an option for us. We need about 200 liters (53 gallons) of water per day.
Replacing the tank is also not easy, as it was apparently installed in the attic before the roof was covered, and the roof hatch is only about 45 cm (18 inches) wide. I have tried to draw the current condition in the attachment.
If I understand correctly, the hot water is connected like a radiator. There are no switching valves or similar devices.
Question 1: Is that possible?
Now I would like to install a new tank next to the heating system downstairs. I plan to weld a 3/4 inch connection onto the supply and return pipes and connect the new tank that way. The new tank would have a heating coil. I have one lying around — 300 liters (79 gallons) with a heating coil, a bit large but should work.
Then I would connect the central heating supply and the hot water supply in the attic and separate them again in the heating room downstairs to connect to the storage tank.
Question 2: If I do that, would the domestic hot water be warm enough?
Question 3: Since the tank is no longer positioned at the highest point, or was it placed there at that time because the heating was gravity-based?
PS: Is it still possible to buy a storage tank like the one currently installed?
Thanks for your help, I hope this information is sufficient.
We have purchased an old house and have now found that the storage tank is defective. It is a zinc tank with an internal hot water storage.
Since we plan to demolish the house in about 5 years, I only want to invest as little as necessary. Still, heating with electricity is not an option for us. We need about 200 liters (53 gallons) of water per day.
Replacing the tank is also not easy, as it was apparently installed in the attic before the roof was covered, and the roof hatch is only about 45 cm (18 inches) wide. I have tried to draw the current condition in the attachment.
If I understand correctly, the hot water is connected like a radiator. There are no switching valves or similar devices.
Question 1: Is that possible?
Now I would like to install a new tank next to the heating system downstairs. I plan to weld a 3/4 inch connection onto the supply and return pipes and connect the new tank that way. The new tank would have a heating coil. I have one lying around — 300 liters (79 gallons) with a heating coil, a bit large but should work.
Then I would connect the central heating supply and the hot water supply in the attic and separate them again in the heating room downstairs to connect to the storage tank.
Question 2: If I do that, would the domestic hot water be warm enough?
Question 3: Since the tank is no longer positioned at the highest point, or was it placed there at that time because the heating was gravity-based?
PS: Is it still possible to buy a storage tank like the one currently installed?
Thanks for your help, I hope this information is sufficient.
Joedreck schrieb:
With that statement and the electric radiator valves, you clearly showed me that you have no idea about your system.Hello.
1) It’s not my system.
2) I never claimed to know anything about it.
3) That’s why I’m asking here.
4) I don’t really understand your statement anyway.
If you’re already taking the trouble and spending time reading the post, why give such a pointless response?
What am I supposed to do with that?
*SHAKING MY HEAD*
Then please explain what exactly doesn’t work or what I am supposed to have misunderstood. Thanks.
My only advice is to continue looking for professionals. This concerns drinking water, including the associated hygiene, and potentially safety-relevant building components.
Keeping costs low is understandable, but possibly at the expense of health is not. So don’t try to tinker with it yourself.
And since you bought the house, the system is your responsibility.
The heating in general is NOT controlled via the thermostat valves.
Keeping costs low is understandable, but possibly at the expense of health is not. So don’t try to tinker with it yourself.
And since you bought the house, the system is your responsibility.
The heating in general is NOT controlled via the thermostat valves.
Joedreck schrieb:
This concerns drinking water, including the related hygiene and potentially safety-relevant building components. Not honest. What could possibly go wrong? The water is heated to 60°C (140°F), and that's it.
PS Since we have a well, the water is tested every year.
So, just a quick update.
I’ve got everything up and running now, and what can I say—it works. Welding with 230 volts on the heater really wasn’t ideal, but soon 400 volts will be available.
I’ve also expanded the system.
A temperature sensor in the storage tank controls the 2/2-way valve of the tank.
When the water temperature is below 45°C (113°F), the valve opens and the heater/pump turns on.
At 60°C (140°F), the 2/2-way valve closes and turns off the heater/pump.
Additionally, I installed a wireless timer that switches the heater/pump on.
Domestic hot water has priority.
The heater now only runs in the chimney sweep mode, maintaining a constant 60°C (140°F).
The control (if you can call it that) is no longer functioning.
But it’s taken over from above.
So in a way, it’s now digitized.
I wanted to share a picture with you all.
Not pretty, but suitable as a temporary solution.
PS The pipes will still get insulation.
Regards
I’ve got everything up and running now, and what can I say—it works. Welding with 230 volts on the heater really wasn’t ideal, but soon 400 volts will be available.
I’ve also expanded the system.
A temperature sensor in the storage tank controls the 2/2-way valve of the tank.
When the water temperature is below 45°C (113°F), the valve opens and the heater/pump turns on.
At 60°C (140°F), the 2/2-way valve closes and turns off the heater/pump.
Additionally, I installed a wireless timer that switches the heater/pump on.
Domestic hot water has priority.
The heater now only runs in the chimney sweep mode, maintaining a constant 60°C (140°F).
The control (if you can call it that) is no longer functioning.
But it’s taken over from above.
So in a way, it’s now digitized.
I wanted to share a picture with you all.
Not pretty, but suitable as a temporary solution.
PS The pipes will still get insulation.
Regards
hd45899 schrieb:
The heating system is currently running only in chimney sweep mode, at a constant 60°C (140°F).Make sure the chimney sweep does not shut down the system during the flue gas measurement.Similar topics