K
kavenzmann12 Mar 2013 15:36Hello everyone,
I am planning to purchase an existing property built in the 1960s in the Lower Rhine region.
The proposals from renovation consultants vary widely, from 16cm (6 inches) external insulation all around plus new triple glazing and a complete heating system replacement, to "for now, just insulate the roof, address thermal bridges, and get moisture in the basement under control."
As a layperson, I feel quite confused... I want to renovate as ecologically as possible, meaning I want to make as few changes as necessary while using minimal plastics and toxic materials. I also like the original structure in general (33cm (13 inches) exterior wall: plaster, hollow brick, plaster, solid brick).
The detached, single-story family home with a full basement has just under 140m2 (1507 square feet) of living space, half of which is under the roof. The basement and attic are currently unoccupied.
The oil-fired central heating system is from 1975, with 3 plastic tanks of 1500 liters (400 gallons) each. The radiators are gravity-fed and original, as are all the other technical installations, which will likely need replacement.
The roof is tiled and insulated with mineral wool. I don’t have detailed information yet. Due to an overhanging upper floor ceiling and a south-facing loggia, there are several thermal bridges. The wooden windows are mostly original and single-glazed. In the upper floor, there are some newer windows with double glazing from 1993.
The basement shows signs of swelling plaster and flaking paint above the skirting boards on the exterior walls. About 15 years ago, due to active mining in the area, these walls were supposedly protected throughout the entire neighborhood against moisture intrusion with bitumen sheets or coatings as a preventive measure. The surveyor suspects moisture transport within the plaster on the interior side of the exterior walls and recommends extending the horizontal damp-proof course at skirting board height beyond the plaster layer.
My idea for the renovation is to address the thermal bridges, install new windows with maximum double glazing (matched to the exterior wall’s U-value), and replace the heating system. Possibly re-insulate the roof with cellulose or similar material if the current insulation is insufficient.
Does this approach make sense?
What type of heating supported by the existing wood stove in the living room (currently open and without a water jacket) would you recommend?
The floors are mostly solid wood parquet and tiles in the bathrooms, kitchen, and hallway. The bathrooms will probably need to be replaced as well since they are from the 1960s.
Either stick with oil and install a modern condensing boiler or remove everything, including the tanks, and switch to, for example, radiant heaters?
These are my ideas as a non-professional (I have bought the "Building in Existing Structures - Atlas").
I would also gladly pay for on-site advice, but only if it comes from someone who really knows their stuff and doesn’t just bring insulation value calculations...
THANK YOU in advance!
I am planning to purchase an existing property built in the 1960s in the Lower Rhine region.
The proposals from renovation consultants vary widely, from 16cm (6 inches) external insulation all around plus new triple glazing and a complete heating system replacement, to "for now, just insulate the roof, address thermal bridges, and get moisture in the basement under control."
As a layperson, I feel quite confused... I want to renovate as ecologically as possible, meaning I want to make as few changes as necessary while using minimal plastics and toxic materials. I also like the original structure in general (33cm (13 inches) exterior wall: plaster, hollow brick, plaster, solid brick).
The detached, single-story family home with a full basement has just under 140m2 (1507 square feet) of living space, half of which is under the roof. The basement and attic are currently unoccupied.
The oil-fired central heating system is from 1975, with 3 plastic tanks of 1500 liters (400 gallons) each. The radiators are gravity-fed and original, as are all the other technical installations, which will likely need replacement.
The roof is tiled and insulated with mineral wool. I don’t have detailed information yet. Due to an overhanging upper floor ceiling and a south-facing loggia, there are several thermal bridges. The wooden windows are mostly original and single-glazed. In the upper floor, there are some newer windows with double glazing from 1993.
The basement shows signs of swelling plaster and flaking paint above the skirting boards on the exterior walls. About 15 years ago, due to active mining in the area, these walls were supposedly protected throughout the entire neighborhood against moisture intrusion with bitumen sheets or coatings as a preventive measure. The surveyor suspects moisture transport within the plaster on the interior side of the exterior walls and recommends extending the horizontal damp-proof course at skirting board height beyond the plaster layer.
My idea for the renovation is to address the thermal bridges, install new windows with maximum double glazing (matched to the exterior wall’s U-value), and replace the heating system. Possibly re-insulate the roof with cellulose or similar material if the current insulation is insufficient.
Does this approach make sense?
What type of heating supported by the existing wood stove in the living room (currently open and without a water jacket) would you recommend?
The floors are mostly solid wood parquet and tiles in the bathrooms, kitchen, and hallway. The bathrooms will probably need to be replaced as well since they are from the 1960s.
Either stick with oil and install a modern condensing boiler or remove everything, including the tanks, and switch to, for example, radiant heaters?
These are my ideas as a non-professional (I have bought the "Building in Existing Structures - Atlas").
I would also gladly pay for on-site advice, but only if it comes from someone who really knows their stuff and doesn’t just bring insulation value calculations...
THANK YOU in advance!
K
kavenzmann12 Mar 2013 15:51Oh, almost forgot.
Property acquisition costs: around 200,000 plus the usual 10% additional acquisition costs (such as taxes and fees).
That leaves about 80,000 for the renovation. But I don’t have to spend it all... 😉
Property acquisition costs: around 200,000 plus the usual 10% additional acquisition costs (such as taxes and fees).
That leaves about 80,000 for the renovation. But I don’t have to spend it all... 😉
K
kavenzmann12 Mar 2013 18:41Me again:
Since I have not yet had the actual consumption or demand values determined, I ran some simplified demand calculations using online calculators (I know, but better than nothing!).
I estimate the current demand to be around 320-400 kWh/(m²·a)
Through the measures I am aiming for, this demand can be reduced by at least half.
The question of heating type is far from answered. However, a heat pump probably doesn't make sense given this demand. I believe that a hydronic wood stove combined with an optimized oil heating system might not be a bad solution. I also don’t think that a pellet heating system will necessarily be more environmentally friendly...
Or, as I said, a rather unpopular but fuel-independent electric radiant heating system.
Any opinions on this?
Currently: oil (natural gas is unfortunately not available on the street)
Since I have not yet had the actual consumption or demand values determined, I ran some simplified demand calculations using online calculators (I know, but better than nothing!).
I estimate the current demand to be around 320-400 kWh/(m²·a)
Through the measures I am aiming for, this demand can be reduced by at least half.
The question of heating type is far from answered. However, a heat pump probably doesn't make sense given this demand. I believe that a hydronic wood stove combined with an optimized oil heating system might not be a bad solution. I also don’t think that a pellet heating system will necessarily be more environmentally friendly...
Or, as I said, a rather unpopular but fuel-independent electric radiant heating system.
Any opinions on this?
Currently: oil (natural gas is unfortunately not available on the street)
K
K.Brodbeck13 Mar 2013 07:09Hello Kavenzmann,
I will not address all your questions right now, only one regarding the on-site analysis.
This is certainly the most important point. In this forum, you can get ideas, but only a professional on site can make an assessment. I recommend contacting a building biologist with the appropriate training. For example, I am an architect and have completed a distance learning course in building biology at the Institute for Building Biology and Ecology, which seemed very reputable to me and still does, even after my formal training.
In this course, you also learn the basics of sensible building renovation. I would be very interested in your property and would gladly provide advice, as I even live on the Rhine—unfortunately by Lake Constance on the Seerhein—so I think the distance is too great. Therefore, I can recommend two organizations you can look up online: one is the Institute for Building Biology and Ecology. On their website, on the left side, there is a link to consulting offices where you can find a building biologist trained at IBN near you. Visit their websites, see which ones appeal to you, and if you want to learn more, you can arrange a consultation with their colleagues.
The Association of Building Biology also has addresses of building biology technicians, but it is closely connected with IBN because it originated from it (though it is now apparently independent). Finally, there is the Professional Association of German Building Biologists, where you can also search for addresses and information about building biology.
All of these institutions are independent, meaning they are neither state-funded nor subsidized by industry. The consultants they recommend work independently and are not employees of the institutions but contract partners.
Best regards
K.Brodbeck
I will not address all your questions right now, only one regarding the on-site analysis.
This is certainly the most important point. In this forum, you can get ideas, but only a professional on site can make an assessment. I recommend contacting a building biologist with the appropriate training. For example, I am an architect and have completed a distance learning course in building biology at the Institute for Building Biology and Ecology, which seemed very reputable to me and still does, even after my formal training.
In this course, you also learn the basics of sensible building renovation. I would be very interested in your property and would gladly provide advice, as I even live on the Rhine—unfortunately by Lake Constance on the Seerhein—so I think the distance is too great. Therefore, I can recommend two organizations you can look up online: one is the Institute for Building Biology and Ecology. On their website, on the left side, there is a link to consulting offices where you can find a building biologist trained at IBN near you. Visit their websites, see which ones appeal to you, and if you want to learn more, you can arrange a consultation with their colleagues.
The Association of Building Biology also has addresses of building biology technicians, but it is closely connected with IBN because it originated from it (though it is now apparently independent). Finally, there is the Professional Association of German Building Biologists, where you can also search for addresses and information about building biology.
All of these institutions are independent, meaning they are neither state-funded nor subsidized by industry. The consultants they recommend work independently and are not employees of the institutions but contract partners.
Best regards
K.Brodbeck
K.Brodbeck schrieb:
.... I recommend consulting a building biologist with appropriate training. For example, I am an architect myself and completed a distance learning course in building biology at the Institute for Building Biology and Ecology, which seemed very reputable to me and still does after my training. What skills/training/experience/expertise does an architect or building biologist have regarding building systems technology?
The overall mutual and significant relationship between the building structure, climate/location, building systems, and user behavior should be well understood by now ;-)
Best regards
K
K.Brodbeck13 Mar 2013 13:32€uro schrieb:
What skills, training, experience, and expertise does an architect or building biologist have regarding building services engineering?
The overall reciprocal and significant relationship between the building structure, local climate, building services, and user behavior should be well known by now ;-)
Best regards.There is nothing better for an architect than having competent partners, so a building services engineer who has also completed training as a building biologist is my ideal partner!
Kind regards
K.Brodbeck
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