ᐅ Digital Room Thermostat for Underfloor Heating – Which One to Choose?

For example

Tarnari schrieb:

I think the easiest way is probably to install these things underneath and, if the plumber agrees, integrate them so that they are practically non-functional.

Often, the thermostats are on the same circuit, so you only need to turn off the fuse in the panel.

danixf schrieb:

Often, the thermostats are grouped on the same circuit, so you only need to switch off the breaker in the panel.

The only downside is when you want to use a room flexibly.
In our case, the guest room (or in recent weeks the home office) still has an actuator installed and is mostly turned down significantly, so the actuator is basically without power. I prefer that my wife simply turns up the valve on the radiator when needed rather than anything being adjusted in the distribution panel.
You could certainly debate whether this is worthwhile. Since the room mainly borders two exterior walls, the lightly heated bedroom, and the unheated utility room, the internal heat transfer is quite limited.

Depending on whether they are NC or NO, they draw the specified current. Open

michert schrieb:

One really has to consider the power consumption of the actuators... Totally crazy, but I’m not sure if they actually draw current continuously.

They do draw current as long as power is supplied to them.

Here is a standard actuator after it has fully extended and thus reached its resting state. (Of course, the measuring device may not be the most accurate, but the standby consumption roughly matches the manufacturer’s technical specifications.)

So far, I have had good experiences with Eberle FIT floor heating thermostats: a clearly readable display to set the temperature correctly once.

The usefulness in a single-family house and the limited possibilities of achieving different room temperatures in individual rooms within a highly insulated house have already been discussed here.