Hello,
here I would like to share some experiences and data regarding my brine heat pump and deep drilling, based in part on the expert’s "questionnaire":
a) What is the soil composition on your property?
Up to 3m (10 feet) silty, fine sandy, clayey soil
Up to 4m (13 feet) slope debris, rock fragments
Then bedrock (mainly limestone)
b) How deep was the drilling?
Drilled twice to a depth of 72m (236 feet)
c) How much did the drilling cost?
€10,400 including double U-probes DN25
Grouting material with 2.0 W/mK thermal conductivity
Permitting process (building permit / planning permission)
Pressure-tight house entry at the basement and underground routing of supply lines (about 25m (82 feet))
Filling/draining equipment, filling, pressure testing, etc. (all inclusive)
d) How much did the system cost?
System: Tecalor TTc 05 with heating output at B0/W35 of 5.8 kW and coefficient of performance (COP) of 4.8
Cost: €9,800
e) Were there any difficulties during installation, if so, what kind?
Because the water used to flush out the drilled material during drilling seeped away, a "small compressor" was needed to blow it out with air. However, it had to be placed on a neighbor’s property who had not yet started building. The machine was the size and approximate weight of a 20-ton truck but was off-road capable. This caused a 2-day delay because the compressor first had to be transported to our site. No additional costs were charged.
f) How is the daily operation?
"Like a refrigerator." Once the parameters on the heating system are correctly set, the only thing that should be done is occasionally reading the information/data such as operating hours and source temperature. Otherwise, it runs "on its own," just like any heating system. When the door is closed, the unit is virtually inaudible. Very discreet since, apart from the cabinet in the utility room, nothing else is visible (all brine pipes are underground).
e) What are the operating costs for which living area?
Currently, a living area of 180sqm (1937 sqft) is heated, plus an additional 65sqm (700 sqft) of cellar space within the insulated thermal envelope (these rooms are around 15-16°C (59-61°F) on the coldest days). From September 2014 to September 2015, 2,000 kWh of electricity was consumed for heating and hot water (2 adults, 1 baby, 1 toddler). The house is a KfW-70 standard building according to the 2009 energy saving regulations, which already met the required technical standards before the central ventilation system with enthalpy heat exchanger was installed (we decided to add this after the initial applications).
f) to be continued ....
Note regarding the comparison of the coefficient of performance (COP):
Since optimizing the heating curve and settings at the end of last year, the system has had a COP of about 5.5. Operating hours are around 1200; the deep borehole was drilled approximately 20% deeper than initially recommended by the companies, at our own request.
here I would like to share some experiences and data regarding my brine heat pump and deep drilling, based in part on the expert’s "questionnaire":
a) What is the soil composition on your property?
Up to 3m (10 feet) silty, fine sandy, clayey soil
Up to 4m (13 feet) slope debris, rock fragments
Then bedrock (mainly limestone)
b) How deep was the drilling?
Drilled twice to a depth of 72m (236 feet)
c) How much did the drilling cost?
€10,400 including double U-probes DN25
Grouting material with 2.0 W/mK thermal conductivity
Permitting process (building permit / planning permission)
Pressure-tight house entry at the basement and underground routing of supply lines (about 25m (82 feet))
Filling/draining equipment, filling, pressure testing, etc. (all inclusive)
d) How much did the system cost?
System: Tecalor TTc 05 with heating output at B0/W35 of 5.8 kW and coefficient of performance (COP) of 4.8
Cost: €9,800
e) Were there any difficulties during installation, if so, what kind?
Because the water used to flush out the drilled material during drilling seeped away, a "small compressor" was needed to blow it out with air. However, it had to be placed on a neighbor’s property who had not yet started building. The machine was the size and approximate weight of a 20-ton truck but was off-road capable. This caused a 2-day delay because the compressor first had to be transported to our site. No additional costs were charged.
f) How is the daily operation?
"Like a refrigerator." Once the parameters on the heating system are correctly set, the only thing that should be done is occasionally reading the information/data such as operating hours and source temperature. Otherwise, it runs "on its own," just like any heating system. When the door is closed, the unit is virtually inaudible. Very discreet since, apart from the cabinet in the utility room, nothing else is visible (all brine pipes are underground).
e) What are the operating costs for which living area?
Currently, a living area of 180sqm (1937 sqft) is heated, plus an additional 65sqm (700 sqft) of cellar space within the insulated thermal envelope (these rooms are around 15-16°C (59-61°F) on the coldest days). From September 2014 to September 2015, 2,000 kWh of electricity was consumed for heating and hot water (2 adults, 1 baby, 1 toddler). The house is a KfW-70 standard building according to the 2009 energy saving regulations, which already met the required technical standards before the central ventilation system with enthalpy heat exchanger was installed (we decided to add this after the initial applications).
f) to be continued ....
Note regarding the comparison of the coefficient of performance (COP):
Since optimizing the heating curve and settings at the end of last year, the system has had a COP of about 5.5. Operating hours are around 1200; the deep borehole was drilled approximately 20% deeper than initially recommended by the companies, at our own request.
lumipas schrieb:
as well as a photovoltaic system with 6.3 kWp and a storage battery with 6.4 kWh. This isn't exactly your question, but still: Make the system bigger! Use your entire roof!
I don’t understand why only a small photovoltaic system is planned for the roof.
At this point, I would say skip the battery, but you probably need it for the “+” and the additional 5000 € subsidy.
Anyway, as is the case almost everywhere, here is the advice: More photovoltaic surface area!
I also believe that a geothermal heat pump is less prone to noise and requires less maintenance, making it generally more durable.
The compressor is the same in both air source and geothermal heat pumps... the only difference is that the outdoor unit exposed to wind and weather is missing. There are fewer rotating and moving parts, no defrost cycles that can be disrupted by ice buildup, and so on.
Whether a geothermal heat pump is financially worthwhile... we will only know in 10 to 20 years when the first heat pump service lives have ended!
This monoblock only costs €3500 to purchase. And if it really fails, a replacement is affordable. Unfortunately, this heat pump is not exactly a looker!
The compressor is the same in both air source and geothermal heat pumps... the only difference is that the outdoor unit exposed to wind and weather is missing. There are fewer rotating and moving parts, no defrost cycles that can be disrupted by ice buildup, and so on.
Whether a geothermal heat pump is financially worthwhile... we will only know in 10 to 20 years when the first heat pump service lives have ended!
This monoblock only costs €3500 to purchase. And if it really fails, a replacement is affordable. Unfortunately, this heat pump is not exactly a looker!
M
Markus130420 Feb 2020 19:56Hello,
we have installed a brine heat pump with deep borehole drilling in our new build. What should the domestic hot water temperature be set to? Currently, it is 45°C (113°F), which is sufficient for us. However, we have read that this temperature is not high enough to kill Legionella bacteria. Is it enough to run a disinfection program once a week, or should we set the hot water temperature significantly higher?
Thank you in advance
we have installed a brine heat pump with deep borehole drilling in our new build. What should the domestic hot water temperature be set to? Currently, it is 45°C (113°F), which is sufficient for us. However, we have read that this temperature is not high enough to kill Legionella bacteria. Is it enough to run a disinfection program once a week, or should we set the hot water temperature significantly higher?
Thank you in advance
I agree with bookstar...
The best protection against Legionella is a properly sized tank, where under normal operation the entire volume of water is used and replaced once every 1 to a maximum of 2 days.
Even if you heat it up to 60 degrees Celsius (140°F)... you will only have 60 degrees in one spot, while other layers of the tank remain much cooler (and 55 degrees Celsius (131°F) is already insufficient to kill them), and definitely not in the water pipes, which is especially problematic with circulation systems.
Overall, it should be said that the fear of Legionella is generally exaggerated...
The best protection against Legionella is a properly sized tank, where under normal operation the entire volume of water is used and replaced once every 1 to a maximum of 2 days.
Even if you heat it up to 60 degrees Celsius (140°F)... you will only have 60 degrees in one spot, while other layers of the tank remain much cooler (and 55 degrees Celsius (131°F) is already insufficient to kill them), and definitely not in the water pipes, which is especially problematic with circulation systems.
Overall, it should be said that the fear of Legionella is generally exaggerated...
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