ᐅ Underfloor heating with an air-to-water heat pump. House gets too warm when the sun is shining.

Created on: 4 Dec 2019 14:18
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chewbacca123
Hello everyone,

I have a general question.

We moved into our new build four months ago. The living area on the ground floor has three large floor-to-ceiling windows facing south. We have underfloor heating and an air-to-water heat pump.
It provides a really comfortable temperature inside the house, but we have a problem – whenever the sun is shining in winter, even if it’s -2°C (28°F) outside, the temperature suddenly rises to 24°C (75°F) in the living room. It gets uncomfortably warm in here, and the underfloor heating can’t be turned down quickly.
Should we assume that the large floor-to-ceiling windows are responsible for the heat gain? A photo of the south-facing side of the house is attached.
What would you do – always lower all the blinds as soon as sunlight is forecast? That seems quite annoying...
We have motorized blinds controlled by Somfy. Would you consider buying a sensor that automatically lowers the blinds at a certain temperature?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

Neues zweistöckiges Haus auf Baustelle mit weißer Blockfassade, pinker Dämmung und großen Fenstern
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Daniel-Sp
16 Jan 2020 19:52
It would be great if you create your own thread with a clear and descriptive title. This increases the chances of getting a response from operators of the respective heat pump!

I can’t offer much help, as I’m not familiar with the device. But the most important question is:
Is the ERR installed and still active? If so, deactivate it, set it to maximum, or even remove the actuators in the heating circuit valve.
Earlier in this thread, you can see what the ERR “does” to your heat pump...
See post 303 in this thread and the following ones.
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guckuck2
16 Jan 2020 20:03
It sounds like the device was just unpacked and connected to power. The rest is missing. Be sure to urgently report this to the contractor!
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Schambeck
17 Jan 2020 09:52
guckuck2 schrieb:

It sounds like the device was just unpacked and connected to power. The rest is missing. You should urgently report this to the technician!
That didn’t help, the installer came three times.
Daniel-Sp schrieb:

It would be helpful if you create your own thread with a clear title. This increases the chances of getting a response from people experienced with that type of heat pump!
I can’t offer much help myself, as I don’t know that device. But the most important question:
Is the ERR installed and still active? If so, disable it, set it to maximum, or even dismantle the actuators in the heating circuit valve (HKV).
Earlier in this thread, you can see what the ERR “greatly” does to your heat pump...
See post 303 in this thread and the following posts.

I already did that, but only got two silly replies like: “Give the installer a punch” and “Everything’s in the user manual.”

Screen showing a heating curve with a descending line, axes THK°C and TA°C.


Thermostat display: date / Friday, 06:17; outside temperature -2.4°C (27.7°F); actual value 32.6°C (90.7°F); target value 32.3°C (90.1°F); symbols at the bottom
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Schambeck
17 Jan 2020 09:54
Daniel-Sp schrieb:

It would be helpful if you start your own thread with a clear title. This increases the chances of getting a response from operators of the relevant heat pump!
I can’t help much since I’m not familiar with the device. But the most important question:
Are ERRs installed and still active? If yes, deactivate them, set to maximum, or even remove the actuators in the heating circuit valve.
Earlier in this thread, you can see what the ERRs “do” to your heat pump...
See post 303 in this thread and the following ones.

ERRs are installed; all are set right at the “point” and are not fully opened. Room temperature in all rooms is about 19°C (66°F).
Is it normal for the heating to run constantly (making a humming noise)? Is there a way to read data from this heating system using a USB stick?
chewbacca12317 Jan 2020 10:17
Schambeck schrieb:

ERR valves are installed; all of mine are set right at the "point" and are not fully open. Room temperature in all rooms is about 19°C (66°F).
Is it normal for the heating to run constantly (humming)? Is there a way to read the heating system data using a USB stick?

I got great help here in the forum. You either need to remove all individual room thermostatic valves or set them all to maximum, for example level 6 out of 6 - or whatever your highest setting is.
Then set your heating curve, for example to 29 - 22 - 0.
Wait 24 hours and then check how the room temperatures develop. It will probably get quite warm at first! We had 23°C (73°F) in the bedroom, but we had to endure that for a night or two.
After that, you can see how each room responds and what temperatures are reached. Then you can adjust the flow regulators for each floor. These control how many liters of water per minute flow through the rooms. The more liters, the warmer the rooms. For example, I throttled our bedroom down to 0.25 liters per minute, but the bathroom is set to 3 liters per minute because we want it as warm as possible.
The living room is set to maximum flow.
It took me three or four weeks until everything was optimized, but now our system runs almost perfectly.
Thanks again to everyone here in the forum, you’re great.

Regarding the USB port, I have no idea—try contacting the manufacturer of your system.

Also, it’s important not to make heating adjustments if the temperature is above 5°C (41°F).

I hope all of this is correct, but the experts here are also reading along.
chewbacca12320 Jan 2020 22:41
Hey, question: the pressure of our system tonight is at 0.9 bar (13 psi), it was always at 1.1 bar (16 psi).
It is not supposed to be below 1 bar (14.5 psi).
What should I do?? :-/
Regards