Hello,
I am new to the forum but have been following the discussions for some time and have a few questions about an upcoming project. Maybe someone has some answers for me.
I am currently renovating our hallway and want to install a suspended ceiling. My usual approach to drilling and fixing is the classic one: mark holes, drill holes, vacuum, insert anchors, pre-drill battens, and fix with screws. As some of you may know, this involves many steps that I want to avoid. Therefore, I am now considering using hammer anchors, with which I have no experience.
I plan to install a substructure using 30x50/40x60mm (1.2x2/1.6x2.4 inches) counter battens and 30x50mm (1.2x2 inches) main battens to mount drywall panels on the ceiling. I have a few questions about the counter battens and their fixing:
1. What is the difference between hammer anchors / nail anchors and frame anchors?
2. I intended to fix the counter battens with hammer anchors. How deep should the anchors be embedded in the concrete ceiling? I usually estimate a depth of 50 to 60mm (2 to 2.4 inches). Is that sufficient, or do they need to be embedded deeper in the concrete? Are there any guidelines I can refer to?
3. How long and thick should the hammer anchors be if I use counter battens sized 40x60mm (1.6x2.4 inches)?
4. If I drill the holes directly through the battens into the ceiling, which drill bit is best to use? Are masonry drill bits unsuitable for this?
I would appreciate any tips and information.
Kind regards
L
I am new to the forum but have been following the discussions for some time and have a few questions about an upcoming project. Maybe someone has some answers for me.
I am currently renovating our hallway and want to install a suspended ceiling. My usual approach to drilling and fixing is the classic one: mark holes, drill holes, vacuum, insert anchors, pre-drill battens, and fix with screws. As some of you may know, this involves many steps that I want to avoid. Therefore, I am now considering using hammer anchors, with which I have no experience.
I plan to install a substructure using 30x50/40x60mm (1.2x2/1.6x2.4 inches) counter battens and 30x50mm (1.2x2 inches) main battens to mount drywall panels on the ceiling. I have a few questions about the counter battens and their fixing:
1. What is the difference between hammer anchors / nail anchors and frame anchors?
2. I intended to fix the counter battens with hammer anchors. How deep should the anchors be embedded in the concrete ceiling? I usually estimate a depth of 50 to 60mm (2 to 2.4 inches). Is that sufficient, or do they need to be embedded deeper in the concrete? Are there any guidelines I can refer to?
3. How long and thick should the hammer anchors be if I use counter battens sized 40x60mm (1.6x2.4 inches)?
4. If I drill the holes directly through the battens into the ceiling, which drill bit is best to use? Are masonry drill bits unsuitable for this?
I would appreciate any tips and information.
Kind regards
L
nordanney schrieb:
Yep, that is formally correct. But you just want to drop the ceiling, right? For your own project, it’s fine to choose not to do something professionally. However, you shouldn’t encourage others to do the same. What’s the extra effort to do it properly? €12 and one hour?
L
Leistchen27 Nov 2019 10:07Dr Hix schrieb:
Have you checked the "Drywall Installation Guidelines" from Rigips (page 172, free-hanging ceiling systems)? You can use frame anchors there because the support profile is attached to the wall below the ceiling. Drive one in every 75cm (30 inches), lay profiles along the short hallway side as the supporting structure, secure them with clamp connections, attach the boards, done. It really doesn’t get any easier.I will not be installing a support profile on the wall. There will only be a substructure of battens attached to the ceiling.
L
Leistchen27 Nov 2019 10:14Right or wrong, I'll leave open for discussion. What matters to me is how it can be done, how the community usually does it, and what experiences have been shared.
I believe that using TOX anchors with the appropriate screws will definitely hold. I also think that hammer-in anchors should work, since I’m not planning to hang anything extremely heavy. I always prefer to play it safe.
Has anyone had experience with metal anchors?
I believe that using TOX anchors with the appropriate screws will definitely hold. I also think that hammer-in anchors should work, since I’m not planning to hang anything extremely heavy. I always prefer to play it safe.
Has anyone had experience with metal anchors?
L
Leistchen27 Nov 2019 10:24I planned to fasten the counter battens measuring 40x60mm (1.6x2.4 inches) to the ceiling with anchors and then level the support battens measuring 30x50mm (1.2x2 inches) on the ceiling using 6x60mm (1/4x2 3/8 inches) adjustment screws. That should work.
Leistchen schrieb:
I will not install any support profiles on the wall. There will only be a substructure made of battens attached to the ceiling. You are looking for a solution that reduces a lot of drilling and screwing work. For a hallway measuring, for example, 2m (6.5 ft) by 6m (19.7 ft), the method described in the mentioned PDF requires only 21 drill holes (which you can safely use with hammer-in anchors) to secure the entire ceiling. The structural difference is that your ceiling is not "suspended" but rather "laid on"—the appearance remains the same, and the ceiling hangs at the same height.
Yes, the (steel) profiles are slightly more expensive than wooden battens (approximately 1€/m (0.30 USD/ft) additional cost). For the example hallway of 2m by 6m, you would need only 36m (118 ft) in total, while the batten option with 50cm (20 inches) spacing would require about 54m (177 ft), resulting in extra costs of around 15€ (18 USD). However, this saves you about 80 drill holes/screws. Additionally, you avoid the hassle of adjustment screws; you only need to align the profiles attached all around the walls using a spirit level or a laser level. In the 2m by 6m example, that would be a total of 6 profiles.
N
nordanney27 Nov 2019 11:45Lumpi_LE schrieb:
But one should not try to motivate others. Well, the original poster wants to be motivated. Either towards proper professional installation or a more pragmatic approach. I would choose (and have chosen) the pragmatic option. That’s all I wrote. Most other posts encourage proper professional installation.
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