ᐅ Building Stair Railings with Aerated Concrete Blocks – Is It Stable?
Created on: 28 Jun 2018 15:04
S
Snowy36
I have a question... Our construction manager wants to build a railing on our 1.07m (3.5 ft) wide concrete staircase using 7cm (2.75 inches) Ytong blocks and then plaster it...
From the beginning, we wanted a masonry railing, but now the stairwell opening is quite large, so a full wall from top to bottom across the two floors is no longer possible...
But will something like this hold? Has anyone done this before?
From the beginning, we wanted a masonry railing, but now the stairwell opening is quite large, so a full wall from top to bottom across the two floors is no longer possible...
But will something like this hold? Has anyone done this before?
K
Knallkörper8 Sep 2018 15:46Basically, you are right. But it’s not that unlikely over the years for a "sufficient" impact to be transferred to the wall. Bumping into it with a heavy piece of furniture can be enough. Therefore, it seems sensible to me to at least fasten a mounting profile or something similar to the free end of the staircase and include it in the purchase. It doesn’t really cost "anything."
D
Deutz201628 Sep 2019 07:59@bon1980
Your stair railing is really great. We are also getting a double half-turn staircase with a relatively small stairwell opening, so the varying riser heights are quite a challenge. Initially, we even wanted a wooden handrail, but that would require working with such offsets. We are still in the planning phase at the moment, but I haven’t found a really good solution for that yet. In my 3D model, I assembled the railing from different blocks, which is why it looks a bit odd.
Could you possibly share one or two more pictures of a railing? That would be really helpful.
Best regards, Jürgen

Your stair railing is really great. We are also getting a double half-turn staircase with a relatively small stairwell opening, so the varying riser heights are quite a challenge. Initially, we even wanted a wooden handrail, but that would require working with such offsets. We are still in the planning phase at the moment, but I haven’t found a really good solution for that yet. In my 3D model, I assembled the railing from different blocks, which is why it looks a bit odd.
Could you possibly share one or two more pictures of a railing? That would be really helpful.
Best regards, Jürgen
C
Christian K.12 Oct 2019 12:43Since the thread has been reopened, I’ll go ahead and write something here as well.
We are also considering how to design the railing. Initially, a glass panel was planned, but that is somewhat expensive... We want it to be as narrow as possible, and a steel railing is also quite costly. With drywall construction, we are concerned it might not be stable enough. But apparently, it can work.
@ivenh0 how thin is the railing and the staircase itself?
We have exactly the same staircase, but our gap in the middle is a bit smaller, about 1–2cm (0.4–0.8 inches)... I’m not sure if profiles can be attached there, so we might have to build a masonry wall. The staircase is 110cm (43 inches) minus the railing, plus plaster, which leaves us with only about 100cm (39 inches). We would like it to be as wide as possible. What other alternatives are there?
We are also considering how to design the railing. Initially, a glass panel was planned, but that is somewhat expensive... We want it to be as narrow as possible, and a steel railing is also quite costly. With drywall construction, we are concerned it might not be stable enough. But apparently, it can work.
@ivenh0 how thin is the railing and the staircase itself?
We have exactly the same staircase, but our gap in the middle is a bit smaller, about 1–2cm (0.4–0.8 inches)... I’m not sure if profiles can be attached there, so we might have to build a masonry wall. The staircase is 110cm (43 inches) minus the railing, plus plaster, which leaves us with only about 100cm (39 inches). We would like it to be as wide as possible. What other alternatives are there?
The profiles are U-profiles with a thickness of 3-4cm (1.2-1.6 inches). However, this won’t be cheaper than a steel railing. After the drywall work, corner beads are installed, followed by plastering, sanding, plastering, sanding again, and then the desired paint or textured coating is applied.
The railing is only as strong as the underlying structure; in our case, no compromises were made on the profiles...
So it definitely works.
The railing is only as strong as the underlying structure; in our case, no compromises were made on the profiles...
So it definitely works.
Similar topics