Hello,
Today, a vapor barrier was installed on the concrete slab in the basement, followed by the insulation boards and the fixing panels for the underfloor heating.
The construction management specification states the following:
A vapor barrier resistant to moisture diffusion will be installed and either welded or sealed throughout the entire basement (manufacturer: KNAUF type Katja or equivalent).
Since the workers behaved very unprofessionally (deep scratches in the fresh plaster, a door handle ripped off, bottles missing, a pallet taken away...), I felt the need to check whether the vapor barrier had actually been installed under the insulation boards. So, I lifted one panel and looked underneath the insulation. The black vapor barrier was there, which is good news. However, it was only overlapping by about 10cm (4 inches) and was not sealed or welded, at least in that spot. The long seam, however, was sealed. Now the question is what to do. Is it problematic if the vapor barrier overlaps but is not sealed? In this way, it is not vapor-tight. Would it be worth removing everything to fix this? Or is this considered a minor issue?
Today, a vapor barrier was installed on the concrete slab in the basement, followed by the insulation boards and the fixing panels for the underfloor heating.
The construction management specification states the following:
A vapor barrier resistant to moisture diffusion will be installed and either welded or sealed throughout the entire basement (manufacturer: KNAUF type Katja or equivalent).
Since the workers behaved very unprofessionally (deep scratches in the fresh plaster, a door handle ripped off, bottles missing, a pallet taken away...), I felt the need to check whether the vapor barrier had actually been installed under the insulation boards. So, I lifted one panel and looked underneath the insulation. The black vapor barrier was there, which is good news. However, it was only overlapping by about 10cm (4 inches) and was not sealed or welded, at least in that spot. The long seam, however, was sealed. Now the question is what to do. Is it problematic if the vapor barrier overlaps but is not sealed? In this way, it is not vapor-tight. Would it be worth removing everything to fix this? Or is this considered a minor issue?
Since we installed the Katja ourselves, I can tell you that the Katja only has adhesive tape on the long side. Our construction coordinator got us an all-purpose adhesive for the non-adhesive side that works with a cartridge gun.
Basically, it’s not expensive or time-consuming. This is something you can do yourself. For the 2 hours and 30€ (about $35) cost, you could of course also wave it off and wait for the contractors to come back. If I were you, I would do it myself. Check with your construction company about the warranty and invoice them for it.
Especially if the screed appointment is approaching.
Basically, it’s not expensive or time-consuming. This is something you can do yourself. For the 2 hours and 30€ (about $35) cost, you could of course also wave it off and wait for the contractors to come back. If I were you, I would do it myself. Check with your construction company about the warranty and invoice them for it.
Especially if the screed appointment is approaching.
G
Grantlhaua20 Sep 2019 13:43Zaba12 schrieb:
Got some all-purpose adhesive for a cartridge gun.This stuff is extremely expensive; one cartridge costs 15€ and you hardly get anything out of it. So I bought cold bitumen adhesive in 5-liter (1.3 gallon) buckets instead, which costs 10€ per bucket.
For sealing the longitudinal joints to the wall, or in our case to the concrete wall where there is no damp-proof course, we glued the Katja Sprint connection strips to the wall.
Once the long sides are glued, that’s fine with the Katja. The short sides must be sealed to the damp-proof course. We also extended it up to the first row of bricks.
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