Hello everyone,
Originally, I planned to have a metal garage, but my wife didn’t like that idea. Therefore, the garage will be built from sand-lime bricks, as it is difficult to find something in the desired size.
The garage will be built directly on the property line and is planned to be 10 meters (33 feet) wide, 9 meters (30 feet) long, and 3 meters (10 feet) high.
I want to have the foundation slab constructed together with the house, but we will handle the "building" ourselves.
Two things are still unclear to me:
How should I build the flat roof (concrete slabs, wood, metal) given the large spans?
How do I construct the lintel for the garage door? The front should have as much opening space as possible so that it’s possible to drive in the middle when working on the car.
I assume that a structural engineer will need to calculate the static loads?
By the way, the construction site is in NRW.
Thank you very much for any advice.
Originally, I planned to have a metal garage, but my wife didn’t like that idea. Therefore, the garage will be built from sand-lime bricks, as it is difficult to find something in the desired size.
The garage will be built directly on the property line and is planned to be 10 meters (33 feet) wide, 9 meters (30 feet) long, and 3 meters (10 feet) high.
I want to have the foundation slab constructed together with the house, but we will handle the "building" ourselves.
Two things are still unclear to me:
How should I build the flat roof (concrete slabs, wood, metal) given the large spans?
How do I construct the lintel for the garage door? The front should have as much opening space as possible so that it’s possible to drive in the middle when working on the car.
I assume that a structural engineer will need to calculate the static loads?
By the way, the construction site is in NRW.
Thank you very much for any advice.
That is a floor area of 90 m2 (970 ft2). In terms of volume, you are planning no less than a typical house with one full story plus a roof. Just without technical installations and (except for the door) without larger openings.
Would you trust yourself to handle the shell construction of a house as well? I mean, you are already asking about lintels and roof structure... have you mentally gone through that process before?
Would you trust yourself to handle the shell construction of a house as well? I mean, you are already asking about lintels and roof structure... have you mentally gone through that process before?
Of course, I have gone through that. But a house is somewhat more complex. Insulation and airtightness are not really an issue for the garage, as long as water doesn’t flow in heavily, so it’s probably not critical. After all, you also drive a wet car into it in the rain.
I have also considered a ring beam, but I’m not sure if it can span a free space of 6 meters (20 feet) or more. Steel double-T beams might also be an option.
Right now, it’s more about brainstorming ideas so I understand what is possible and practical. The easiest solution would probably be to build the garage with masonry walls, place a ring beam on top, and then have concrete slabs delivered to be laid directly on top. But I assume those slabs also need to be secured?
I have also considered a ring beam, but I’m not sure if it can span a free space of 6 meters (20 feet) or more. Steel double-T beams might also be an option.
Right now, it’s more about brainstorming ideas so I understand what is possible and practical. The easiest solution would probably be to build the garage with masonry walls, place a ring beam on top, and then have concrete slabs delivered to be laid directly on top. But I assume those slabs also need to be secured?
A
angoletti117 Sep 2019 11:33Oh dear, no offense intended, but you should get someone with experience to help you. There is a lot of dangerous misinformation involved here. You will need a building permit / planning permission anyway, so also someone who is authorized to prepare construction documents. They can also show you the options and costs. For a project of this size, if you do everything yourself, expect about 20,000-25,000 euros in material costs.
A precast concrete slab will be too expensive for you; it’s better to plan towards wood. Your “lintel” will be part of the ring beam, reinforced with steel according to structural engineering requirements. It’s nothing rocket science, but small mistakes can become very costly to fix later.
A precast concrete slab will be too expensive for you; it’s better to plan towards wood. Your “lintel” will be part of the ring beam, reinforced with steel according to structural engineering requirements. It’s nothing rocket science, but small mistakes can become very costly to fix later.
Thank you @angoletti1 for your insightful response.
I don’t want to start building tomorrow without thinking it through; I want to be able to weigh my options properly.
For example, I have a quote for about 18,000 euros. However, the dimensions don’t really suit me (9x9x2.55 meters (30x30x8.4 feet)).
It’s quite a lot of money for “just” a garage. Yes, I know the garage is huge, but we also have a lot of stuff, and it needs to accommodate the clutter from the basement as well.
I don’t want to start building tomorrow without thinking it through; I want to be able to weigh my options properly.
For example, I have a quote for about 18,000 euros. However, the dimensions don’t really suit me (9x9x2.55 meters (30x30x8.4 feet)).
It’s quite a lot of money for “just” a garage. Yes, I know the garage is huge, but we also have a lot of stuff, and it needs to accommodate the clutter from the basement as well.
A
angoletti117 Sep 2019 12:58Sure. I have already been through all of this myself. Mine is just slightly smaller. If you build yours like that, it should be around ±35,000.
Tip: Proper planning in advance (heights, drainage, materials, supply lines, etc.) and getting all approvals done beforehand is essential. Have the excavation, connections, gravel laying, and foundation slab done in one go together with the house.
Then convince a bricklayer or civil engineer to help build the garage on Saturdays or after working hours with 1-2 helpers you provide.
It’s the same approach with the roof—just involve a roofer, then have the plastering done together with the house.
Doing everything yourself is not worthwhile. Look carefully at where it makes sense and make sure you always have competent people by your side to guide you.
This way it goes quickly, you benefit from many synergies, and it’s not much more expensive than doing everything yourself.
Tip: Proper planning in advance (heights, drainage, materials, supply lines, etc.) and getting all approvals done beforehand is essential. Have the excavation, connections, gravel laying, and foundation slab done in one go together with the house.
Then convince a bricklayer or civil engineer to help build the garage on Saturdays or after working hours with 1-2 helpers you provide.
It’s the same approach with the roof—just involve a roofer, then have the plastering done together with the house.
Doing everything yourself is not worthwhile. Look carefully at where it makes sense and make sure you always have competent people by your side to guide you.
This way it goes quickly, you benefit from many synergies, and it’s not much more expensive than doing everything yourself.
Johanna von Koczian sang in my youth, "a little household work does itself, says my husband" – I think of this every time I read the overestimations by amateur masons who consider their garage not too complex and therefore suitable as a journeyman’s project. The engineers are usually even worse than the administrative officers, who at least are aware of their lack of expertise. Calibrating the tiling of the utility room yourself proves that again.
As an amateur mason, I would first recommend either aerated concrete or formwork blocks instead of sand-lime bricks, both of which are significantly easier for theorists to work with.
I would reconsider leaving out the central post just to save three or four moves when maneuvering the car during repairs. Also, I would leave the planning to a carpenter starting at the top edge of the ring beam.
The fact that you are now asking about the garage probably means that the building permit / planning permission for the property within the noise protection buffer zone we discussed some time ago has been approved?
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
As an amateur mason, I would first recommend either aerated concrete or formwork blocks instead of sand-lime bricks, both of which are significantly easier for theorists to work with.
I would reconsider leaving out the central post just to save three or four moves when maneuvering the car during repairs. Also, I would leave the planning to a carpenter starting at the top edge of the ring beam.
The fact that you are now asking about the garage probably means that the building permit / planning permission for the property within the noise protection buffer zone we discussed some time ago has been approved?
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
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