ᐅ New Construction of a Single-Family Home Single-family home, 125 square meters, located in Brandenburg
Created on: 11 Jul 2018 10:28
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Maddin.mHello dear forum, I have already read a lot and received useful information. Unfortunately, I am a complete beginner when it comes to building a house, but my wife and I still want to fulfill our dream of owning our own home. I received the following offer from my home construction company.
Single-family house, 1½ stories – solid construction, 125sqm (1350 sq ft) living area.
The foundation slab consists of 18cm (7 inches) waterproof concrete with 8cm (3 inches) vertical insulation, surrounding depth 40–60cm (16–24 inches). On top, a floating screed with perimeter insulation strips will be installed. The total build-up height is 16.5cm (6.5 inches).
The exterior walls are made from porous perforated bricks 24cm (9.5 inches), with 16cm (6 inches) polystyrene external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS) boards with a thermal conductivity of 0.032 W/mK, and a silicone-based fine texture render.
The windows installed have insulated glazing with triple-pane glass.
The roof insulation consists of 24cm (9.5 inches) insulation with a thermal conductivity of 0.035 W/mK. A Rotex heat pump HPSU Compact 304 is planned for heating.
I would like to know from you if these components generally make sense and if they would result in a very energy-efficient house. I am also interested in what you would suggest changing or adding.
– foundation slab?
– increase exterior insulation on ETICS to 24cm (9.5 inches)?
The Rotex heat pump will likely be combined with a solar thermal system. An efficient heating solution as well as the use of domestic hot water is important to me. Heating will be provided via underfloor heating (pipes with 0.035 W/mK). No ventilation system will be installed. I thank you in advance for useful ideas, suggestions, and help.
Best regards, Martin
Single-family house, 1½ stories – solid construction, 125sqm (1350 sq ft) living area.
The foundation slab consists of 18cm (7 inches) waterproof concrete with 8cm (3 inches) vertical insulation, surrounding depth 40–60cm (16–24 inches). On top, a floating screed with perimeter insulation strips will be installed. The total build-up height is 16.5cm (6.5 inches).
The exterior walls are made from porous perforated bricks 24cm (9.5 inches), with 16cm (6 inches) polystyrene external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS) boards with a thermal conductivity of 0.032 W/mK, and a silicone-based fine texture render.
The windows installed have insulated glazing with triple-pane glass.
The roof insulation consists of 24cm (9.5 inches) insulation with a thermal conductivity of 0.035 W/mK. A Rotex heat pump HPSU Compact 304 is planned for heating.
I would like to know from you if these components generally make sense and if they would result in a very energy-efficient house. I am also interested in what you would suggest changing or adding.
– foundation slab?
– increase exterior insulation on ETICS to 24cm (9.5 inches)?
The Rotex heat pump will likely be combined with a solar thermal system. An efficient heating solution as well as the use of domestic hot water is important to me. Heating will be provided via underfloor heating (pipes with 0.035 W/mK). No ventilation system will be installed. I thank you in advance for useful ideas, suggestions, and help.
Best regards, Martin
B
Baurevolution11 Jul 2018 11:12Hello Martin,
You probably want to build a house that lasts for generations. There are always new insights and experiences with modern construction methods. Unfortunately, long-term experience with polystyrene, mineral wool, or plastics in general tends to be rather critical.
It has long been known that mechanical, chemical, and thermal effects cause recrystallization of these materials. This means that concrete eventually loses strength—usually after 40 to 80 years. For plastics, this process can happen within one to two decades. All of this should be taken into consideration.
Solid, massive houses have proven their worth and last for generations. Capillarity-active building materials, which absorb and release moisture, remain the best choice for a house. Combined with the right radiant heating system and simple heating technology, this can create a healthy overall environment for generations.
Good luck,
Christoph
You probably want to build a house that lasts for generations. There are always new insights and experiences with modern construction methods. Unfortunately, long-term experience with polystyrene, mineral wool, or plastics in general tends to be rather critical.
It has long been known that mechanical, chemical, and thermal effects cause recrystallization of these materials. This means that concrete eventually loses strength—usually after 40 to 80 years. For plastics, this process can happen within one to two decades. All of this should be taken into consideration.
Solid, massive houses have proven their worth and last for generations. Capillarity-active building materials, which absorb and release moisture, remain the best choice for a house. Combined with the right radiant heating system and simple heating technology, this can create a healthy overall environment for generations.
Good luck,
Christoph
+ Ventilation
- Solar thermal
+ Photovoltaics.
The heat pump only delivers 3 kW at 2 degrees Celsius (36°F) outside temperature; if there is a high demand for hot water, it will struggle.
Always install ventilation in airtight houses – and all new buildings are airtight.
Solar thermal is only useful in summer, which is when your heat pump operates most efficiently and economically. Photovoltaics are the better choice.
- Solar thermal
+ Photovoltaics.
The heat pump only delivers 3 kW at 2 degrees Celsius (36°F) outside temperature; if there is a high demand for hot water, it will struggle.
Always install ventilation in airtight houses – and all new buildings are airtight.
Solar thermal is only useful in summer, which is when your heat pump operates most efficiently and economically. Photovoltaics are the better choice.
First of all, thank you for the many responses. The planned single-family house will, of course, be built as a solid construction. My main focus is on energy efficiency. Accordingly, does the combination of 24cm (9.5 inches) HZL masonry together with 16cm (6 inches) 032 ETICS insulation make sense, or would it be better to go with 24cm (9.5 inches)? I know... beyond a certain thickness, it hardly pays off anymore.
So far, I have excluded the topic of ventilation because I assume that regular window ventilation is sufficient.
*I will look into this again separately.
The basic idea behind the solar thermal system was to save domestic hot water in the summer and thus save energy. Domestic hot water demand would be high in our case—we live as a couple, my wife often takes baths, and I take showers.
Basically, I am not in favor of these heat pumps. An alternative would be a gas combi boiler.
So far, I have excluded the topic of ventilation because I assume that regular window ventilation is sufficient.
*I will look into this again separately.
The basic idea behind the solar thermal system was to save domestic hot water in the summer and thus save energy. Domestic hot water demand would be high in our case—we live as a couple, my wife often takes baths, and I take showers.
Basically, I am not in favor of these heat pumps. An alternative would be a gas combi boiler.
B
Baurevolution11 Jul 2018 12:40I just want to point out something!
For example, a solid masonry house can have around 30 cubic meters (cbm) of hazardous waste in the walls!
For example, a solid masonry house can have around 30 cubic meters (cbm) of hazardous waste in the walls!
Maddin.m schrieb:
First of all, thanks for all the replies. The planned single-family house will, of course, be built as a solid masonry house. My main concern is energy efficiency. So, is the combination of 24cm (9.5 inches) HZL masonry along with 16cm (6.3 inches) 032 ETICS insulation sufficient, or should I go for 24cm (9.5 inches)? I know... beyond a certain thickness, it hardly makes a difference.
I had excluded the topic of ventilation so far, assuming that regular window ventilation would be enough.
*I will inquire about this again.
The basic idea behind solar thermal was that in summer, I can save domestic hot water and thus energy. Domestic hot water demand is high in our household... we are two people, my wife often takes baths, and I take showers.
Basically, I’m not a fan of heat pumps. An alternative would still be a gas combi boiler.16cm (6.3 inches) should be more than sufficient.
What energy standard are you aiming for?
We have been living in our house without a mechanical ventilation system for 2 years... no mold so far. It’s just a comfort feature, and you do need to ventilate daily.
The idea is good... but it’s not really economically viable. In winter, the heat pump needs to work hard and gets little support from solar thermal systems... in summer, it can easily generate energy on its own and doesn’t really need the help of solar thermal.
For example:
I switch my gas boiler to summer mode roughly from mid-May to mid-September (depending on weather). This means it only reheats the water in the storage tank. Over those four months, I consume about 80m³ (2,825 cubic feet) of gas – costing around 60 euros.
That’s roughly what solar thermal would save me per year... so you can calculate when the investment pays off.
How much does solar thermal cost? No idea... maybe 1,500–2,000 euros / 60 euros savings = 25 to 33 years...
And our domestic hot water demand is also high... we live as a family of five ;-) (had to chuckle a bit there...)
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