Hello everyone,
At our house built in 2010, we noticed a few centimeters above the terrace stones that the plaster is efflorescing. Digging around all four exterior sides revealed that the waterproofing layer made of bitumen, shown on the construction drawings between the foundation and the masonry, is missing. Regardless of the cause, responsibility, fraud, or whatever else, I would like to inquire about the necessary work to be done here. The opinions I've received so far vary widely.
Here is how I currently assess the required work:
I look forward to your answers and thank you in advance.
Best regards
vaincare
At our house built in 2010, we noticed a few centimeters above the terrace stones that the plaster is efflorescing. Digging around all four exterior sides revealed that the waterproofing layer made of bitumen, shown on the construction drawings between the foundation and the masonry, is missing. Regardless of the cause, responsibility, fraud, or whatever else, I would like to inquire about the necessary work to be done here. The opinions I've received so far vary widely.
Here is how I currently assess the required work:
- Expose the foundation all around (This can be done by oneself – including breaking through the door portal. But how deep? According to the drawings, the waterproofing must extend to 20cm (8 inches) below the top edge of the foundation. Is that sufficient? Is it also necessary to waterproof from the inside, meaning beneath the strip footing up to under the supported slab?)
- Drying time (How long? If the masonry and plaster are really damp, this should be factored in, right?)
- Waterproofing (Priming, applying bitumen membrane from a roll or similar, possibly multiple layers. Can this be done by oneself, or should a professional company be hired?)
- Backfilling and everything should be fine...
I look forward to your answers and thank you in advance.
Best regards
vaincare
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NeuerNachbar17 Jun 2018 18:44lastdrop schrieb:
Otherwise, you need to differentiate between the structural waterproofing (in your case, the [not visible] bitumen) and the moisture protection of the base coat (plaster at the base) (which you do not have, and it is unclear whether it is needed with this type of plaster).I have a question to clarify: If I want to protect a prefabricated timber frame house against rising damp and at the same time raise the ground level almost up to the top edge of the slab, how should I protect the building against rising moisture?
Currently, there is a layer of Styrodur (rigid foam insulation) mechanically fixed around the perimeter of the foundation slab. Most prefab house manufacturers keep it simple by requiring a ground model with a sufficient gap between the soil and the timber frame walls. This means all entrances need steps, which are neither accessible nor very aesthetically pleasing due to these large level changes.
If I apply a waterproof slurry coat over the Styrofoam, then coat the first 30 cm (12 inches) of the exterior timber frame with a water-repellent protective coating before plastering, and of course include the obligatory splash guard strip, wouldn't this work? I mean shaping the ground level up to about 5 cm (2 inches) below the top edge of the slab so that adequate air circulation remains around the threshold where the base meets the timber frame. Has anyone had experience with this approach?
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NeuerNachbar18 Jun 2018 22:15Does no one here in the forum have any experience with moisture protection at the base of timber frame construction?
K
Knallkörper19 Jun 2018 09:53Wood is not a suitable building material for a house in our climate, speaking from personal experience.
Apart from that, I know that some address this by casting a curb around the perimeter of the foundation slab, so that the timber frame starts at the finished floor level.
Apart from that, I know that some address this by casting a curb around the perimeter of the foundation slab, so that the timber frame starts at the finished floor level.
T
Traumfaenger19 Jun 2018 18:54Knallkörper schrieb:
Wood is not a suitable building material for a house in our climate; I speak from personal experience.Can you share some details from your experience? It doesn’t seem to me that this is the first or only timber frame house being built in our region. The edge beam you mentioned will also no longer be possible to add later on the concrete slab.
K
Knallkörper19 Jun 2018 18:58We experienced moisture damage in the splash zone despite proper execution according to standards, woodworm infestation, and serious mold problems caused by a slight water leak that went unnoticed but would not have been critical in brick construction. It was only a rental property, so it wasn’t an issue for me.
The upstand can of course still be poured.
The upstand can of course still be poured.
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NeuerNachbar19 Jun 2018 20:37Knallkörper schrieb:
The upstand can still be poured.Thank you for your suggestions. To clarify my previous post: The concrete slab has been poured, the house has been erected, and now the goal is to apply a protective layer before plastering:
NeuerNachbar schrieb:
apply a water-repellent protective coating to the first 30cm (12 inches) of the exterior wall of the timber frame before plasteringSimilar topics