ᐅ Window sash warped from floor to ceiling, door rubbing against the floor
Created on: 4 Jun 2018 12:46
D
dertillAlmost all of our new PVC windows have been installed without issues, properly aligned and adjusted. Only one patio double door (without a mullion, i.e., a flush door) is causing a problem:
During the installation of the dry screed floor, the planner (myself) measured and calculated somewhat narrowly, resulting in a gap of only 1 cm (0.4 inches) between the bottom edge of the door leaf and the parquet floor. This is not critical in itself; the floor is perfectly level without any unevenness, and the clearance at the door hinges is also correct.
However, the door leaves are not perfectly rectangular but taper into a parallelogram shape towards the end, causing the tips to scrape against the parquet. This occurs on both leaves equally. So the door is not hung crookedly in the frame; rather, the horizontal profiles are not exactly perpendicular to the vertical ones. This can be confirmed with a spirit level, by observing the floor line, and by closely examining the edge of the glass within the frame. There is about 1 cm (0.4 inches) of offset across a 70 cm (28-inch) leaf width.
The window installer was initially punctual and professional but has recently become hard to reach (even though a final payment is still pending). The seals, which were mistakenly delivered in black instead of gray, are still to be replaced; all materials are on site.
This is the only door leaf in the entire house with this issue; I have checked all others again.
Is this something that can be fixed by removing the trims and the glass, then loosening and tightening some screws or similar adjustments? Or do both leaves need to be replaced? The door closes properly but cannot be adjusted higher because the warped leaves are fully using up the clearance in the frame.
To be clear, I do not intend to carry out repairs myself but want to understand the extent of the work required and whether the manufacturer or the local installer should handle it.
During the installation of the dry screed floor, the planner (myself) measured and calculated somewhat narrowly, resulting in a gap of only 1 cm (0.4 inches) between the bottom edge of the door leaf and the parquet floor. This is not critical in itself; the floor is perfectly level without any unevenness, and the clearance at the door hinges is also correct.
However, the door leaves are not perfectly rectangular but taper into a parallelogram shape towards the end, causing the tips to scrape against the parquet. This occurs on both leaves equally. So the door is not hung crookedly in the frame; rather, the horizontal profiles are not exactly perpendicular to the vertical ones. This can be confirmed with a spirit level, by observing the floor line, and by closely examining the edge of the glass within the frame. There is about 1 cm (0.4 inches) of offset across a 70 cm (28-inch) leaf width.
The window installer was initially punctual and professional but has recently become hard to reach (even though a final payment is still pending). The seals, which were mistakenly delivered in black instead of gray, are still to be replaced; all materials are on site.
This is the only door leaf in the entire house with this issue; I have checked all others again.
Is this something that can be fixed by removing the trims and the glass, then loosening and tightening some screws or similar adjustments? Or do both leaves need to be replaced? The door closes properly but cannot be adjusted higher because the warped leaves are fully using up the clearance in the frame.
To be clear, I do not intend to carry out repairs myself but want to understand the extent of the work required and whether the manufacturer or the local installer should handle it.
M
Mastermind14 Jun 2018 12:54Could you please take a photo?
Are the doors tinted dark on the outside?
Perhaps the glass panes were not properly spaced with glazing blocks...? To check, the window fitter needs to remove the glazing beads, then you can see how the glass panes are supported.
Are the doors tinted dark on the outside?
Perhaps the glass panes were not properly spaced with glazing blocks...? To check, the window fitter needs to remove the glazing beads, then you can see how the glass panes are supported.
Mastermind1 schrieb:
Could you take a photo? I will provide one when I get the chance.
Mastermind1 schrieb:
Are these exterior doors with dark-tinted glass? They are RAL 7047, Tele Gray, so not really dark, white on the inside, and the windows face southwest. I don’t think it’s caused by thermal warping, as the sashes are all flat and even; only the frames are not perfectly square with each other.
Mastermind1 schrieb:
Maybe the glass wasn’t properly supported with glazing blocks...? To check, the window installer needs to remove the trim so you can see how the glass is supported. That’s quite possible. When I searched online, I found exactly my problem described, thanks! That should be fixable, especially since the window trim and glass will have to be removed anyway because the seals were done in black instead of gray as ordered. … Now I just need to get the window installer to come over.
M
Mastermind14 Jun 2018 14:24Nordlys schrieb:
Hmm, if that’s not a right angle, then I’ll have to take the entire door leaf apart. It’s bonded with MS polymer. You could hang a car off the adhesive... so replacing the whole thing might be cheaper in the long run. Karsten
With our Schüco SI82 doors, there are inserted profiles all around holding the glass in place.
On one occasion, the panes had to be replaced because a stone created a hole in the glass :-)
Even the installers had to pull the inserted profiles out with considerable force. They hold very firmly. If they are glued, there is no chance to open and close it again without damage...
Similar topics