ᐅ Is it possible to renovate a 1954 suburban house to meet energy efficiency standards? How can this be done?
Created on: 23 Apr 2018 21:12
S
SebastianDrHello, my name is Sebastian, I’m 38 years old and I come from Barth in Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania.
We have the opportunity to take over my girlfriend’s grandmother’s house.
It is a 1.5-story terraced house with a pitched roof, built in 1954, located in Zingst on the Darß peninsula.
Key data: built in 1954, exterior dimensions 8 m x 8.5 m (26 ft x 28 ft), gable ends facing north and south.
Personally, we would prefer to renovate the house to meet energy efficiency standards rather than build new, but right now we are unsure how to proceed.
We would like to first assess the feasibility and potential costs and see whether the loan would fit within our budget (you also want to enjoy life).
The house has 38 cm (15 inches) thick walls with about an 8 cm (3 inch) air gap between them.
Windows, roof, and heating system (gas) were renewed in 1993 right after reunification, but are probably no longer up to current standards.
The facade was newly plastered in 1995, but without any insulation.
We envision an extension in timber frame construction to expand the living space by approximately 8 m x 2 m (26 ft x 6.5 ft) on the southern gable end.
-Plans include reroofing with new insulation,
-Adding 2 dormer windows,
-Insulating the facade or injecting insulation into the cavity wall,
-Replacing the gas heating system with a new underfloor heating system and an additional fireplace; complete new pipework and radiators,
-Photovoltaics?
-Completely renewing the electrical system,
-Replacing the wooden floor with a more solid floor covering.
Has anyone here had experience with this kind of project and can offer advice on how they started? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Best regards,
Basti
We have the opportunity to take over my girlfriend’s grandmother’s house.
It is a 1.5-story terraced house with a pitched roof, built in 1954, located in Zingst on the Darß peninsula.
Key data: built in 1954, exterior dimensions 8 m x 8.5 m (26 ft x 28 ft), gable ends facing north and south.
Personally, we would prefer to renovate the house to meet energy efficiency standards rather than build new, but right now we are unsure how to proceed.
We would like to first assess the feasibility and potential costs and see whether the loan would fit within our budget (you also want to enjoy life).
The house has 38 cm (15 inches) thick walls with about an 8 cm (3 inch) air gap between them.
Windows, roof, and heating system (gas) were renewed in 1993 right after reunification, but are probably no longer up to current standards.
The facade was newly plastered in 1995, but without any insulation.
We envision an extension in timber frame construction to expand the living space by approximately 8 m x 2 m (26 ft x 6.5 ft) on the southern gable end.
-Plans include reroofing with new insulation,
-Adding 2 dormer windows,
-Insulating the facade or injecting insulation into the cavity wall,
-Replacing the gas heating system with a new underfloor heating system and an additional fireplace; complete new pipework and radiators,
-Photovoltaics?
-Completely renewing the electrical system,
-Replacing the wooden floor with a more solid floor covering.
Has anyone here had experience with this kind of project and can offer advice on how they started? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Best regards,
Basti
Similar situation to yours (the grandparents’ house): We are currently renovating a 1960s end-terrace house extensively and engaged an architect from the very beginning.
At first, we considered contacting contractors directly and obtaining quotes for various modernizations (electrical work, windows, plumbing, heating, flooring were clear priorities). However, we quickly decided against it, as coordinating all the work as "laypersons" seemed too complex. We were also concerned that the different trades might not be properly coordinated in the end.
From my point of view, I can only recommend “buying” experience. An architect may seem “expensive” at first, but we have been very satisfied so far – you still need to think a lot for yourself and sometimes take the initiative, but you have much influence and the architect (hopefully) maintains a good overview of the market and costs. Our current design feels like more than just the sum of the renovation measures – somehow coherent.
You should definitely also try to clarify whether the renovation makes financial sense. For us, the amounts discussed quite quickly reached levels for which others would buy a new-build house in a development. I guess it also depends a lot on how much you want to change the layouts in the old building (larger rooms, for example). Architects often have good ideas that, unfortunately, also cost money – but once you’ve seen them, you still want to implement them in the end.
At first, we considered contacting contractors directly and obtaining quotes for various modernizations (electrical work, windows, plumbing, heating, flooring were clear priorities). However, we quickly decided against it, as coordinating all the work as "laypersons" seemed too complex. We were also concerned that the different trades might not be properly coordinated in the end.
From my point of view, I can only recommend “buying” experience. An architect may seem “expensive” at first, but we have been very satisfied so far – you still need to think a lot for yourself and sometimes take the initiative, but you have much influence and the architect (hopefully) maintains a good overview of the market and costs. Our current design feels like more than just the sum of the renovation measures – somehow coherent.
You should definitely also try to clarify whether the renovation makes financial sense. For us, the amounts discussed quite quickly reached levels for which others would buy a new-build house in a development. I guess it also depends a lot on how much you want to change the layouts in the old building (larger rooms, for example). Architects often have good ideas that, unfortunately, also cost money – but once you’ve seen them, you still want to implement them in the end.
caddar schrieb:
Similar situation as with you (grandparents’ house): We are currently undertaking a (major) renovation of an end terraced house from the 1960s and engaged an architect from the very start.
At first, we considered going directly to contractors to get quotes for various modernizations (obviously electrical work, windows, plumbing, heating, flooring). However, we quickly dropped that idea because, as laypeople, the effort to coordinate everything seemed too overwhelming. We were also concerned that the different trades might not be properly aligned in the end.
From my perspective, I can only recommend investing in experience. An architect might seem like an expensive option at first, but so far we are very satisfied – you still have to do a lot of thinking yourself and take initiative at times, but you retain a lot of control, and the architect (hopefully) has a good overview of the market and costs. Our current design feels like more than the sum of the renovation works – it somehow feels coherent.
You should definitely also try to clarify whether the renovation makes financial sense. For us, sums came up quite quickly that others might spend on a new build in a residential development. It probably also depends a lot on how much you want to change the layouts in the old building (larger rooms?). Architects often have good ideas that unfortunately cost money – but once you’ve seen them, you usually want to implement them anyway. Thanks for the insight into your project. We have also already considered hiring an architect just for the overall planning and coordination. It will probably be the best option. May I ask what cost range you are working within?
Best regards, Sebastian
SebastianDr schrieb:
The house has 38cm (15 inches) thick walls with about an 8cm (3 inches) air gap in between.
Windows, roof, and heating (gas) were all replaced in 1993, shortly after reunification, but they are certainly no longer up to current standards. The facade was only re-plastered in 1995, but without any insulation. That means it is a cavity wall from the original construction year – which is unusual, and I cannot quite figure out the total thickness or exactly how this exterior wall is constructed. Is there any more detailed information available?
SebastianDr schrieb:
We are planning an extension using timber frame construction to expand the living space, about 8 by 2 meters (26 by 7 feet) on the southern gable. I also find it hard to imagine what kind of rooms would fit into the strip between the old and new exterior walls.
SebastianDr schrieb:
- Insulate and reroof the roof,
- Add 2 dormers The classic approach when modernizing a building like this is rather to redesign the attic space (for example, by adding knee walls). The additional living area gained this way could roughly compensate for an extension.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
11ant schrieb:
Meaning originally built as a double-wall construction – that’s unusual, and I can’t figure out the overall thickness or how this exterior wall might be built. Is there more detailed information available?Yes, all the documentation from 1954 is available. As mentioned, it is a double-wall with an 8cm (3 inch) air gap. There is also a complete list of all the work and materials.
11ant schrieb:
I also can’t quite imagine what kind of rooms would be in this strip between the old and new exterior walls. We wanted to open the gable wall and extend the adjacent rooms by 2 meters (6.5 feet) with floor-to-ceiling windows as part of the extension.
11ant schrieb:
The usual approach when modernizing a building like this is more often an attic conversion (e.g., adding a knee wall). The extra space gained could roughly balance out the need for an extension.The idea is not bad but will probably be ruled out for cost reasons, I think. I need to look into it more closely.
We wanted to reduce the ground floor, which currently consists of kitchen, living room, bedroom, and hallway, and have an open living area with kitchen and bathroom. Upstairs, then, would accommodate bedrooms and children’s rooms. A utility room is already located downstairs for heating, etc.
Best regards,
Sebastian
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