ᐅ Gas Heating + Solar & Controlled Ventilation or Air-to-Water Heat Pump Energy Saving Regulation 2016
Created on: 21 Apr 2018 11:26
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Filstal
Hello everyone,
Since I am quite new here, I would like to provide some background information about my situation. Please excuse any gaps in my knowledge in advance, and I am happy to provide further details if needed.
I own a fairly flat plot of land with 400 sqm (4,305 sq ft) (gas connection available), on which a KfW 70 energy-efficient solid brick single-family house with a slab foundation (no basement) is planned. The house will have approximately 134 sqm (1,442 sq ft) of living space and 144 sqm (1,550 sq ft) of total floor area, spread over 1.5 stories. It will have a gable roof with a 30° pitch and a knee wall height of 1.50 m (4.9 ft). Due to a nearby railway line, increased sound insulation is required, so the exterior walls must be constructed with a thickness of 36.5 cm (14.4 inches).
The build will be carried out by a local general contractor who has provided me with two offers as follows:
Offer 1: Thermo solid masonry blocks S9, 36.5 cm (14.4 inches) thick, enhanced insulation in the roof/attic, a gas condensing wall boiler type Viessmann VITODENS 200-W with a 500-liter (132-gallon) storage tank, and Viessmann VITOSOL 200-F flat plate solar collectors. Controlled ventilation with heat recovery is provided by four decentralized ventilation units, along with standard compact radiators throughout the house. Airtightness testing will be performed using a blower door test. This build will comply with the Energy Saving Ordinance 2014 including the 2016 tightening.
Offer 2: Thermo solid masonry blocks SX 10, 36.5 cm (14.4 inches) thick, Bartl air-to-water compact heat pump ECO 3-6 LCI for indoor installation with an 800-liter (211-gallon) storage tank. Underfloor heating throughout the entire house. Vento ventilation systems installed at all windows and patio doors in living areas. Prepared for a future photovoltaic system installation. This build will comply with the Energy Saving Ordinance 2016.
In terms of price, the second offer is exactly €3,000 more expensive, which is offset by the gas connection cost required for the first offer.
Since I am quite uncertain about which heating system would be the, let’s say carefully, "better" option for this house and more economical in the long run, I would like to ask for your recommendations here. My secondary question is whether the compact heat pump makes sense or if a split system from the same manufacturer would be a better choice?
I do not want to start a general debate about whether gas or air-to-water heat pumps are better and am specifically focusing only on the air-to-water heat pump.
My general contractor is clearly leaning towards the air-to-water heat pump. Here is a link to the technical data of the air-to-water heat pump.
Best regards,
Filstal
Since I am quite new here, I would like to provide some background information about my situation. Please excuse any gaps in my knowledge in advance, and I am happy to provide further details if needed.
I own a fairly flat plot of land with 400 sqm (4,305 sq ft) (gas connection available), on which a KfW 70 energy-efficient solid brick single-family house with a slab foundation (no basement) is planned. The house will have approximately 134 sqm (1,442 sq ft) of living space and 144 sqm (1,550 sq ft) of total floor area, spread over 1.5 stories. It will have a gable roof with a 30° pitch and a knee wall height of 1.50 m (4.9 ft). Due to a nearby railway line, increased sound insulation is required, so the exterior walls must be constructed with a thickness of 36.5 cm (14.4 inches).
The build will be carried out by a local general contractor who has provided me with two offers as follows:
Offer 1: Thermo solid masonry blocks S9, 36.5 cm (14.4 inches) thick, enhanced insulation in the roof/attic, a gas condensing wall boiler type Viessmann VITODENS 200-W with a 500-liter (132-gallon) storage tank, and Viessmann VITOSOL 200-F flat plate solar collectors. Controlled ventilation with heat recovery is provided by four decentralized ventilation units, along with standard compact radiators throughout the house. Airtightness testing will be performed using a blower door test. This build will comply with the Energy Saving Ordinance 2014 including the 2016 tightening.
Offer 2: Thermo solid masonry blocks SX 10, 36.5 cm (14.4 inches) thick, Bartl air-to-water compact heat pump ECO 3-6 LCI for indoor installation with an 800-liter (211-gallon) storage tank. Underfloor heating throughout the entire house. Vento ventilation systems installed at all windows and patio doors in living areas. Prepared for a future photovoltaic system installation. This build will comply with the Energy Saving Ordinance 2016.
In terms of price, the second offer is exactly €3,000 more expensive, which is offset by the gas connection cost required for the first offer.
Since I am quite uncertain about which heating system would be the, let’s say carefully, "better" option for this house and more economical in the long run, I would like to ask for your recommendations here. My secondary question is whether the compact heat pump makes sense or if a split system from the same manufacturer would be a better choice?
I do not want to start a general debate about whether gas or air-to-water heat pumps are better and am specifically focusing only on the air-to-water heat pump.
My general contractor is clearly leaning towards the air-to-water heat pump. Here is a link to the technical data of the air-to-water heat pump.
Best regards,
Filstal
An air-to-water heat pump installed indoors is better than a split system, provided you have enough indoor space for it.
In terms of appearance and noise levels, it is more pleasant.
An 800-liter (210-gallon) storage tank with a heat pump is not only unnecessary but also illogical and does not fit into the system at all. What’s the point? Choose a compact unit or an external storage tank of 200-300 liters (50-80 gallons) and that’s enough. This will reduce the price by about 500€. If a buffer tank is planned, leave that out as well, saving another 500€.
Sound insulation made with thicker Poroton blocks from commercial construction... well, if it looks nice. This is probably due to regional preferences.
In terms of appearance and noise levels, it is more pleasant.
An 800-liter (210-gallon) storage tank with a heat pump is not only unnecessary but also illogical and does not fit into the system at all. What’s the point? Choose a compact unit or an external storage tank of 200-300 liters (50-80 gallons) and that’s enough. This will reduce the price by about 500€. If a buffer tank is planned, leave that out as well, saving another 500€.
Sound insulation made with thicker Poroton blocks from commercial construction... well, if it looks nice. This is probably due to regional preferences.
Filstal schrieb:
Here is a link to the technical data of the air-to-water heat pump: This link will likely be removed soon, as external links are not allowed here.
Filstal schrieb:
In terms of price, the second offer is exactly 3000€ more expensive, but this is balanced out by the fact that the first offer requires a gas connection. This only matters if you truly do not have to take the gas connection (keyword: mandatory connection).
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
11ant schrieb:
That will probably be removed soon; external links are not allowed here.Yes, I was already informed about that by the admin today.
I also find the 800 liters quite large, almost reaching the size of one cubic meter. However, this is even specified by Bartl himself. I see on the original 2016 price list that it is included as standard. So there must be a good reason for it being sized that big, right?
What do you think about these offers? Which one would you consider the more practical option?
I have also thought about adding a controlled mechanical ventilation system to offer 2, although there is quite some debate about whether a central or decentralized system is better.
Filstal schrieb:
where opinions are divided between central and decentralized systems. Not only there. Even when you might think it’s about facts, opinions differ just as widely as if people were discussing football.
That’s why I mentioned elsewhere that it can be helpful to choose between a provider using red bricks and one using white bricks without any “religious biases” when deciding who you want to build your house.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
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Bieber081523 Apr 2018 08:13Are compact radiators even an option?
I would start with underfloor heating designed for low supply temperatures (<=30°C (86°F)) and a central controlled ventilation system. Everything else (building method, heating system) can be decided afterward. Given the small plot, gas might be a better choice, as this would eliminate the need for the outdoor unit of an air-to-water heat pump. Is a basement planned?
For sound insulation, sand-lime brick is a good option, although the exterior walls won’t be any thinner (only the interior walls will).
I would start with underfloor heating designed for low supply temperatures (<=30°C (86°F)) and a central controlled ventilation system. Everything else (building method, heating system) can be decided afterward. Given the small plot, gas might be a better choice, as this would eliminate the need for the outdoor unit of an air-to-water heat pump. Is a basement planned?
For sound insulation, sand-lime brick is a good option, although the exterior walls won’t be any thinner (only the interior walls will).
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