ᐅ Floor plan design shortly before submitting the building permit application
Created on: 2 Oct 2017 23:25
R
R.Hotzenplotz
Hello everyone!
As some users have requested before, I’m now starting a new thread with the current planning of our detached house, which is about to be finalized.
These are the preliminary drawings for the building permit / planning permission application, and I have one last chance to review them and point out any issues.
It still seems to me that there is less than 1.20m (4 feet) of space between the two wardrobes in the dressing room. Or am I seeing this wrong? Apparently, the rooms on the left and right were overlooked and not adjusted accordingly.
Two Velux ceiling spotlights are still planned to illuminate the upper floor hallway.
In the basement, on the right side in the upper room, a window similar to the one on the left basement side is an option.
We still haven’t decided on the T30 fire-rated door to the garage, even though it is shown in the plans. Most likely, for safety reasons and the limited use of the kitchen at the other end of the house, we will eventually forgo it.
User 11ant pointed out that the right window in child’s room 2 is suboptimally positioned. However, this could still be changed after submitting the building permit / planning permission application. Our architect thinks moving the window to the left would negatively affect the house’s exterior appearance. We’ll have to see about that.
As some users have requested before, I’m now starting a new thread with the current planning of our detached house, which is about to be finalized.
These are the preliminary drawings for the building permit / planning permission application, and I have one last chance to review them and point out any issues.
It still seems to me that there is less than 1.20m (4 feet) of space between the two wardrobes in the dressing room. Or am I seeing this wrong? Apparently, the rooms on the left and right were overlooked and not adjusted accordingly.
Two Velux ceiling spotlights are still planned to illuminate the upper floor hallway.
In the basement, on the right side in the upper room, a window similar to the one on the left basement side is an option.
We still haven’t decided on the T30 fire-rated door to the garage, even though it is shown in the plans. Most likely, for safety reasons and the limited use of the kitchen at the other end of the house, we will eventually forgo it.
User 11ant pointed out that the right window in child’s room 2 is suboptimally positioned. However, this could still be changed after submitting the building permit / planning permission application. Our architect thinks moving the window to the left would negatively affect the house’s exterior appearance. We’ll have to see about that.
R.Hotzenplotz schrieb:
You said that construction could start immediately after the groundworks. As I understood it, the delivery time for the prefabricated components is so long that after completing the groundworks, nothing happens on the site for a while. And you find that unfavorable considering the weather.Okay, I understand that longer delivery times are caused by the construction boom. On the other hand, this should be known in advance and can be planned or work done in parallel. The shell builder probably doesn't start right away the day after the shop drawings are approved, or do they?
But they’ll certainly know better and be able to assess it more accurately.
A cast-in-place concrete wall is not a bad option. However, precast elements are faster. If the order for those was delayed, the situation can of course be reversed. I would definitely ask whether this affects the schedule, especially if time is important or critical for you.
Another difference is that according to the WU guidelines, a cast-in-place concrete wall in exposure class 2 only needs to be 20cm (8 inches) thick, whereas the precast panel must be 24cm (9.5 inches) thick there (as with both options in exposure class 1). But all of this can be looked up.
Another difference is that according to the WU guidelines, a cast-in-place concrete wall in exposure class 2 only needs to be 20cm (8 inches) thick, whereas the precast panel must be 24cm (9.5 inches) thick there (as with both options in exposure class 1). But all of this can be looked up.
ruppsn schrieb:
Just out of curiosity: why is cast-in-place concrete supposed to be faster and more durable against rain, etc.? I must be missing something... Simply put: precast elements are either lost formworks (with interface issues where they connect to the cast-in-place concrete backfill) or they are themselves monolithic but, for weight reasons, smaller in size (which brings the problem of joints). Therefore, I actually see a slight quality advantage in the extra effort to form and pour concrete on site.
Alex85 schrieb:
Precast elements are faster though. If their order is delayed, that can obviously reverse. I wouldn’t call that a delay. The wall panels don’t just come on demand from a decentralized 3D printer. Storage capacity is also limited, so after a weather-related pause, production orders tend to accumulate and get stuck in the queue. Being able to switch to cast-in-place concrete as a fallback seems sensible to me.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
Of course, I wasn’t concerned with the technical advantages of the in-situ concrete wall; I understood that casting it “in one piece” has benefits compared to joining sections. I just didn’t see a clear advantage regarding “building the basement during rain.” That’s why I asked, because placing a precast element sounds faster and more resistant to water from above than formwork and the risk of excessive rain affecting the concrete. I was only interested in the time factor and robustness against weather conditions.
But another question on the topic of waterproof concrete basements and electrical outlets. The wall thickness is 25cm (10 inches). Is it possible to install flush-mounted outlets in this wall, or would that significantly compromise the watertightness in that area?
-> Soil report indicates occasional rising seepage water (clay soil).
Is it better to use standard boxes or rather a drywall installation with the boxes placed there?
But another question on the topic of waterproof concrete basements and electrical outlets. The wall thickness is 25cm (10 inches). Is it possible to install flush-mounted outlets in this wall, or would that significantly compromise the watertightness in that area?
-> Soil report indicates occasional rising seepage water (clay soil).
Is it better to use standard boxes or rather a drywall installation with the boxes placed there?
ruppsn schrieb:
I just didn’t see the specific advantage regarding "building the basement during rain." You are probably right; cast-in-place concrete would of course get diluted, but in more than light drizzle, this work is usually avoided anyway.
Some site managers might quickly come up with seemingly "convincing" reasons on the spot.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
R
R.Hotzenplotz17 Jan 2018 19:46They told me that the new version also makes it easier to install the electrical wiring.
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