ᐅ Clear ceiling height and window height. Provider’s standard: 262.5 cm
Created on: 7 Dec 2017 13:20
C
chrisw81
Hello, we are currently planning a house with a gable roof (38°) and are unsure about the ceiling height for the ground floor. The standard offered by our builder is a structural height of 262.5 cm (103.5 inches) / clear ceiling height of 246 cm (97 inches). The floor-to-ceiling windows are 226 cm (89 inches) tall. Now we are considering raising the ground floor by either 12.5 cm (5 inches) or 25 cm (10 inches). However, we also have a relatively high knee wall of 150 cm (59 inches) (possibly 137.5 cm (54 inches) might be an option or make more sense).
Here are the questions:
1) Will the eave height become too high overall with the increased room height and the high knee wall? On the long side, we have no windows on the upper floor (currently no strip windows either), so it will be a large closed area. Is there a way to visually break that up?
2) Do the windows need to be raised as well, or are 226 cm (89 inches) still suitable?
Additional info: Our living room (including dining and kitchen) is quite large (about 11.5 x 4 meters (38 x 13 feet)), so we are concerned that a low ceiling might feel oppressive, hence the idea of raising it.
Perhaps someone has experience with these ceiling heights and can offer some advice.
Thank you!
Here are the questions:
1) Will the eave height become too high overall with the increased room height and the high knee wall? On the long side, we have no windows on the upper floor (currently no strip windows either), so it will be a large closed area. Is there a way to visually break that up?
2) Do the windows need to be raised as well, or are 226 cm (89 inches) still suitable?
Additional info: Our living room (including dining and kitchen) is quite large (about 11.5 x 4 meters (38 x 13 feet)), so we are concerned that a low ceiling might feel oppressive, hence the idea of raising it.
Perhaps someone has experience with these ceiling heights and can offer some advice.
Thank you!
B
baumann428 Dec 2017 11:19"Hello, we are currently planning a house with a pitched roof (38° "
aha, so a room of about 11.5 x 4 m (38 x 13 ft) is planned? Not exactly
a masterpiece to design such a narrow space!!!
Already “planned” a house?
aha, so a room of about 11.5 x 4 m (38 x 13 ft) is planned? Not exactly
a masterpiece to design such a narrow space!!!
Already “planned” a house?
The original plan even allows for just 11.5 x 3.7 meters (38 x 12 feet)! However, I definitely want to revise it so that the living and dining areas are about 4.20 to 4.30 meters (14 to 14.1 feet) wide. For the kitchen, 4 meters (13.1 feet) is fine since it narrows slightly toward the kitchen area. If it still feels too narrow, the kitchen can also be separated with a drywall partition.
What I like about this:
1) You can step outside to the south directly from the kitchen, whereas in standard L-shaped floor plans you usually have to go through the dining area to exit from the kitchen.
2) Because the house is narrow, the ridge height stays low. With a 1.5-meter (5-foot) knee wall and a 38° roof pitch, we remain under the required ridge height of 8.5 meters (28 feet). This is hardly achievable with a “standard” width of 10 meters (33 feet) or more.
I am still trying to adjust the floor plan so that the width is slightly increased and the length reduced...
Here is the original floor plan:
What I like about this:
1) You can step outside to the south directly from the kitchen, whereas in standard L-shaped floor plans you usually have to go through the dining area to exit from the kitchen.
2) Because the house is narrow, the ridge height stays low. With a 1.5-meter (5-foot) knee wall and a 38° roof pitch, we remain under the required ridge height of 8.5 meters (28 feet). This is hardly achievable with a “standard” width of 10 meters (33 feet) or more.
I am still trying to adjust the floor plan so that the width is slightly increased and the length reduced...
Here is the original floor plan:
chrisw81 schrieb:
1) You can also step out to the south from the kitchen; with standard L-shaped layouts, you always have to go through the dining room to get outside from the kitchen. That’s not true. In an L-shaped layout, you can also place the living area where the kitchen usually is in the standard plan, and vice versa. This way, the living area is quieter, and the kitchen is located next to the terrace.
Also, a width of 376 cm (148 inches) for a room that is 1151 cm (453 inches) long is quite narrow. You really need to enter furniture (table, kitchen units) with realistic dimensions, especially if you want a functional kitchen island that you can walk around. That leaves only about 180 cm (71 inches) of clearance.
My own room is about 720 cm (283 inches) long and 410 cm (161 inches) deep, containing only the kitchen and a dining table with an upholstered sofa. If it were about 30 cm (12 inches) narrower, it would have limited my kitchen planning options.
Your measurement of 2.26m (7 ft 5 in) for the window height will be the rough opening size, meaning that 16-18cm (6-7 inches) will be deducted for the screed, so your windows will be about 2.10m (6 ft 11 in) tall. We have a room height of 2.70m (8 ft 10 in) and windows that are 2.33m (7 ft 8 in) tall. I find these dimensions very nice; it looks very spacious.
Best regards,
Sabine
Best regards,
Sabine
Curly schrieb:
Your measurement of 2.26 m (7 ft 5 in) for the window height will be the rough opening, That might be the case, but it doesn’t have to be. Often you need to refer to sectional drawings because floor plans usually don’t specify what the measurement refers to.
Curly schrieb:
Your measurement of 2.26 m (7 ft 5 in) for the window height will be the rough opening, meaning you still have to subtract 16–18 cm (6–7 in) for the screed, so your windows will be about 2.10 m (6 ft 11 in) tall. We have a ceiling height of 2.70 m (8 ft 10 in) and our windows are 2.33 m (7 ft 8 in) tall. For roller shutter boxes, a height of around 30 cm (12 in) is usually estimated if they are to be delivered integrated with the window. A distance of approximately 30 to 40 cm (12 to 16 in) from the ceiling works well if you want to avoid the windows looking pushed too high or the ceiling appearing visually lowered.
In any case, I recommend always adjusting room height and window height together. Increasing the ceiling height by about 20 cm (8 in) — and it doesn’t have to be in exact increments of 12.5 cm (5 in) — while keeping the window height standard will create the described effect of casting a shadow that visually interrupts the light on its way to the ceiling.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
Similar topics