Hello,
Can I directly glue drywall panels onto the interior walls of a basement that is about 1 meter (3 feet) underground and made entirely of poured concrete?
Later, bedrooms and a children's room will be located there.
Could there be problems with condensation?
The rooms have windows.
I might also install a ventilation system.
Best regards
Can I directly glue drywall panels onto the interior walls of a basement that is about 1 meter (3 feet) underground and made entirely of poured concrete?
Later, bedrooms and a children's room will be located there.
Could there be problems with condensation?
The rooms have windows.
I might also install a ventilation system.
Best regards
G
garfunkel16 Nov 2017 22:44In windows, it is not air but a gas.
If the concrete wall is sufficiently insulated, does a stationary layer of air (which is present behind the drywall) no longer pose a problem?
If the concrete wall is sufficiently insulated, does a stationary layer of air (which is present behind the drywall) no longer pose a problem?
garfunkel schrieb:
In windows, it’s not air but a gas.
If the concrete wall is sufficiently insulated, does a still air layer (which is present behind the drywall) no longer pose a problem?The house is still in the planning stage.
The architect wants a 25 cm (10 inches) concrete base with 5 to 10 cm (2 to 4 inches) of extruded polystyrene insulation and waterproofing membrane, specifically a torch-on membrane.
garfunkel schrieb:
But the space in windows is not filled with air, it's filled with a gas.
If the concrete wall is sufficiently insulated, does the still air layer (which is behind the drywall) no longer pose a problem?There are argon fillings in windows. But it’s not always gas in the windows. I have regular windows with just air between the panes.
Imagine a slice of Edam cheese shaved down to veneer thickness – that roughly represents the pattern of air bubbles between the flattened blobs of construction adhesive, scaled up in area but similar in distribution. You cannot compare that to an air gap between masonry skins for a few cents; the "insulating effect" would be negligible. Any corrugated cardboard would insulate better, though it obviously doesn't belong there. So compared to plaster applied directly onto the wall, this offers no benefit. But it definitely earns a place in my collection of amusing misunderstandings of basic physics.
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11ant schrieb:
Imagine a slice of Edam cheese shaved down to the thickness of a veneer – that roughly illustrates (at a larger surface scale but similar distribution) the pattern of air bubbles between the flattened clumps of construction adhesive. You can’t really compare that to a cheap air gap between masonry leaves, as the “insulation effect” wouldn’t be measurable. Any corrugated cardboard would insulate better, but it doesn’t belong there. So compared to plaster applied directly onto the wall, it offers no advantage. But it definitely earns a place in my collection of classic examples of superficial physics. Okay, if in your opinion this air gap does nothing, why do window panes have an air gap? A minimal air layer also makes a vacuum flask work. Besides, I didn’t want to do it only for insulation purposes, but because I can do it myself. I’m aware this doesn’t provide proper insulation, but you haven’t offered any arguments besides that silly comment. If you really do business consulting and tell your clients “that doesn’t work” without proper arguments, then you belong in my collection of eloquent (well-spoken) blond moments.
Here’s a potentially stronger argument. Each adhesive point bridges the air layer. Since these adhesive points amount to a considerable surface area, they further reduce the already limited insulation effect.
If the house is still in the planning phase, it’s better to install sufficient external insulation.
If drywall is absolutely required, I would still recommend a substructure with metal or wooden profiles, as this compensates for any unevenness. I believe it will be very difficult to get the joints to look neat without a lot of filling and smoothing.
If you’re seeking advice here, please also consider other viewpoints and think it over again. We’re just trying to help.
If the house is still in the planning phase, it’s better to install sufficient external insulation.
If drywall is absolutely required, I would still recommend a substructure with metal or wooden profiles, as this compensates for any unevenness. I believe it will be very difficult to get the joints to look neat without a lot of filling and smoothing.
If you’re seeking advice here, please also consider other viewpoints and think it over again. We’re just trying to help.
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