Hello,
I have lime-cement plaster throughout the entire house and want to start by painting everything white, possibly adding some accents after moving in.
The idea is simply to paint everything white first or maybe use wallpaper.
What have you done with your lime-cement plaster? Is it worth using silicate paint, or is the difference in indoor climate compared to an emulsion paint rather small? What should I pay attention to?
Does anyone perhaps have experience with wallpapers?
Many thanks to you all
I have lime-cement plaster throughout the entire house and want to start by painting everything white, possibly adding some accents after moving in.
The idea is simply to paint everything white first or maybe use wallpaper.
What have you done with your lime-cement plaster? Is it worth using silicate paint, or is the difference in indoor climate compared to an emulsion paint rather small? What should I pay attention to?
Does anyone perhaps have experience with wallpapers?
Many thanks to you all
It used to be said that you should never paint damp rooms extensively with latex paint because moisture would no longer be able to escape from the walls, which could lead to mold risk. Apparently, there are now latex paints that allow more diffusion, so I would look into that.
F
fach1werk14 Nov 2017 08:54Wow, this really changes everything... Lime plaster is highly absorbent, flexible, and antiseptic. A great material.
“Some” primer can very easily contain acrylate; it’s more likely than unlikely. Latex paint differs from dispersion paint due to a higher content of pure acrylate in aqueous solution. Even in high dilution, acrylate can form a very thin film over the beneficial properties of lime, effectively sealing it off and making the good qualities unnecessary.
My suggestion would be to stick with the system and continue working with mineral-based materials. Primer, if necessary, with silicic acid. Stimulating a wall with diluted paint is an old and proven method. Use mineral paint. You may need to wait a bit longer for opacity while drying and for full strength as well.
The whole “paint” trade fair is always full of products where, without expert knowledge, people apply everything on everything else—often in just one coat. This is best avoided. If you only need to complete a single project for yourself, do yourself a favor and avoid physical experiments. Most products somehow stick to the wall anyway, but it is possible—without additional cost—to do better than negating lime’s properties with acrylate. By the way, plasticizers from acrylate continue to off-gas throughout the product’s entire lifespan. You can do it, but you don’t have to.
Best regards
Gabriele
“Some” primer can very easily contain acrylate; it’s more likely than unlikely. Latex paint differs from dispersion paint due to a higher content of pure acrylate in aqueous solution. Even in high dilution, acrylate can form a very thin film over the beneficial properties of lime, effectively sealing it off and making the good qualities unnecessary.
My suggestion would be to stick with the system and continue working with mineral-based materials. Primer, if necessary, with silicic acid. Stimulating a wall with diluted paint is an old and proven method. Use mineral paint. You may need to wait a bit longer for opacity while drying and for full strength as well.
The whole “paint” trade fair is always full of products where, without expert knowledge, people apply everything on everything else—often in just one coat. This is best avoided. If you only need to complete a single project for yourself, do yourself a favor and avoid physical experiments. Most products somehow stick to the wall anyway, but it is possible—without additional cost—to do better than negating lime’s properties with acrylate. By the way, plasticizers from acrylate continue to off-gas throughout the product’s entire lifespan. You can do it, but you don’t have to.
Best regards
Gabriele
So, the classic approach. Gypsum plaster in the living areas, and only lime-cement plaster in wet rooms. That’s how almost everyone does it. Since my brother is a master painter and therefore professionally competent, I’ll tell you what he did with me.
Bathrooms and kitchen. We didn’t want too many tiles for aesthetic reasons. So, walls were filled and sanded. In the kitchen, where the gypsum plaster was at Q2 level, only any voids were filled.
Then a primer was applied. On top of this, fiberglass mesh was glued, StoTex. Then Stocry was applied, a silk-matte finish. Commonly called latex by the average person, but it is ultimately an acrylic paint; genuine rubber latex is apparently no longer available on the market.
The result is scrub-resistant, washable walls—similar to tiles.
All other rooms. Voids were filled. Stosil plaster base was rolled on and a textured finish was brushed in with a ceiling brush. This material fills unevenness and provides an excellent base for wall paints.
On top of that, tinted wall paint chosen by my wife from Renovo. Ceilings, after filling, were all painted with Stobasic in off-white.
After several repaintings, every paint peels off.
Bathrooms and kitchen. We didn’t want too many tiles for aesthetic reasons. So, walls were filled and sanded. In the kitchen, where the gypsum plaster was at Q2 level, only any voids were filled.
Then a primer was applied. On top of this, fiberglass mesh was glued, StoTex. Then Stocry was applied, a silk-matte finish. Commonly called latex by the average person, but it is ultimately an acrylic paint; genuine rubber latex is apparently no longer available on the market.
The result is scrub-resistant, washable walls—similar to tiles.
All other rooms. Voids were filled. Stosil plaster base was rolled on and a textured finish was brushed in with a ceiling brush. This material fills unevenness and provides an excellent base for wall paints.
On top of that, tinted wall paint chosen by my wife from Renovo. Ceilings, after filling, were all painted with Stobasic in off-white.
After several repaintings, every paint peels off.
Marvinius II14 Nov 2017 14:19Nordlys schrieb:
So, classic approach. Gypsum plaster in the living areas, cement-lime plaster only in the wet rooms. That’s how almost everyone does it. Since my brother is a master painter and therefore probably qualified, I’ll share what he did with me.,Bathrooms and kitchen. We didn’t want too many tiles, for aesthetic reasons. So, the walls were filled and sanded. In the kitchen, where there was Q2 gypsum plaster, only the voids were filled.,Then applied deep primer. On top of that, fiberglass mesh was glued, Sto tex. Then Stocry paint. Satin finish. Commonly called latex, but it’s actually an acrylic paint; genuine latex made from rubber apparently no longer exists on the market.The result is scrub-resistant, washable walls. Similar to tiles.
All other rooms. Voids filled. Stosil plaster primer rolled on and textured with a ceiling brush. This stuff fills unevenness and provides a great bonding base for wall paints.
On top, tinted wall paint chosen by my wife from Renovo. Ceilings after filling all painted in Stobasic off-white.
After multiple coats, every paint will peel off.Our procedure with Q2 finish: First sanding, then filling, then applying fiberglass fleece wallpaper. Cheap modular in the basement, pre-primed fiberglass fleece in the living rooms. Then dispersion paint applied with an airless sprayer. Went very fast and looks goodSimilar topics