ᐅ New Construction, Wood-Burning Stove, Nominal Heat Output—What Now?
Created on: 8 Nov 2017 10:08
O
onyx.dop
Hello everyone,
We are currently planning a new build and would like to include a wood-burning stove (a heating insert built with firebrick) in the open living/dining/kitchen area. The goal is to slightly reduce the load on the air-to-water heat pump and create a cozy atmosphere.
My heat load calculation based on the U-value shows that for 64m² (living/dining/kitchen + hallway connected by two doors) we need a maximum heating capacity of about 2.3 kW. This includes all external walls (approximately U-value 0.19) and floor construction (0.16).
If I install a stove with a nominal heat output of 9 kW and an output range of 3.2 to 10.9 kW, won’t I overheat the space even at the minimum wood feed rate (3.2 kW)? According to the stove fitter, this is not a problem because the heat output can be controlled by adjusting the amount of wood.
The 2.3 kW figure also refers to the worst-case scenario of -16°C (3°F) outside and +23°C (73°F) inside, without any other heat sources. So, in reality, the required heating capacity will likely be much lower than 2.3 kW.
What is the best approach? Should I choose a stove insert with the lowest possible heat output range?
Best regards.
We are currently planning a new build and would like to include a wood-burning stove (a heating insert built with firebrick) in the open living/dining/kitchen area. The goal is to slightly reduce the load on the air-to-water heat pump and create a cozy atmosphere.
My heat load calculation based on the U-value shows that for 64m² (living/dining/kitchen + hallway connected by two doors) we need a maximum heating capacity of about 2.3 kW. This includes all external walls (approximately U-value 0.19) and floor construction (0.16).
If I install a stove with a nominal heat output of 9 kW and an output range of 3.2 to 10.9 kW, won’t I overheat the space even at the minimum wood feed rate (3.2 kW)? According to the stove fitter, this is not a problem because the heat output can be controlled by adjusting the amount of wood.
The 2.3 kW figure also refers to the worst-case scenario of -16°C (3°F) outside and +23°C (73°F) inside, without any other heat sources. So, in reality, the required heating capacity will likely be much lower than 2.3 kW.
What is the best approach? Should I choose a stove insert with the lowest possible heat output range?
Best regards.
H
HilfeHilfe10 Nov 2017 07:46Evolith schrieb:
That's how I sold ours too [emoji16]
Also, underfloor heating is a bit slow to respond, so I can compensate for sudden cold spells.
I completely agree. We stayed nice and warm, while the neighbors above, who only have a chimney connection but no stove installed, were freezing for three days because the plumber couldn't get the settings right.
We're prepared if the Russian cold snap arrives^^
HilfeHilfe schrieb:
We are prepared for the Russian cold^^I’m counting on global warming and decided to skip the fireplace.
H
HilfeHilfe10 Nov 2017 10:40Musketier schrieb:
I'm counting on global warming and left out the fireplace. ^^
Better than GAZPROM GAS^^