ᐅ New Construction, Wood-Burning Stove, Nominal Heat Output—What Now?
Created on: 8 Nov 2017 10:08
O
onyx.dop
Hello everyone,
We are currently planning a new build and would like to include a wood-burning stove (a heating insert built with firebrick) in the open living/dining/kitchen area. The goal is to slightly reduce the load on the air-to-water heat pump and create a cozy atmosphere.
My heat load calculation based on the U-value shows that for 64m² (living/dining/kitchen + hallway connected by two doors) we need a maximum heating capacity of about 2.3 kW. This includes all external walls (approximately U-value 0.19) and floor construction (0.16).
If I install a stove with a nominal heat output of 9 kW and an output range of 3.2 to 10.9 kW, won’t I overheat the space even at the minimum wood feed rate (3.2 kW)? According to the stove fitter, this is not a problem because the heat output can be controlled by adjusting the amount of wood.
The 2.3 kW figure also refers to the worst-case scenario of -16°C (3°F) outside and +23°C (73°F) inside, without any other heat sources. So, in reality, the required heating capacity will likely be much lower than 2.3 kW.
What is the best approach? Should I choose a stove insert with the lowest possible heat output range?
Best regards.
We are currently planning a new build and would like to include a wood-burning stove (a heating insert built with firebrick) in the open living/dining/kitchen area. The goal is to slightly reduce the load on the air-to-water heat pump and create a cozy atmosphere.
My heat load calculation based on the U-value shows that for 64m² (living/dining/kitchen + hallway connected by two doors) we need a maximum heating capacity of about 2.3 kW. This includes all external walls (approximately U-value 0.19) and floor construction (0.16).
If I install a stove with a nominal heat output of 9 kW and an output range of 3.2 to 10.9 kW, won’t I overheat the space even at the minimum wood feed rate (3.2 kW)? According to the stove fitter, this is not a problem because the heat output can be controlled by adjusting the amount of wood.
The 2.3 kW figure also refers to the worst-case scenario of -16°C (3°F) outside and +23°C (73°F) inside, without any other heat sources. So, in reality, the required heating capacity will likely be much lower than 2.3 kW.
What is the best approach? Should I choose a stove insert with the lowest possible heat output range?
Best regards.
Deliverer schrieb:
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In new builds, a wood stove doesn’t make sense...That’s not true: it actually adds more coziness, as I already mentioned above.
Instead of the set 22°C (72°F), the house is at 25°C (77°F). You just adjust. In summer, we also prefer to be outside at 25°C (77°F) rather than 21°C (70°F).
Often we don’t open the window because the heat rises to the mezzanine and warms the upper floor.
From October onwards, we have the fireplace on every weekend.
D
Deliverer8 Nov 2017 13:05ypg schrieb:
Instead of the set 22 degrees, it is actually 25 degrees inside the house. Well – that is very personal. I already start sweating at 22 degrees.
Deliverer schrieb:
Well – that is very personal. I already get beads of sweat on my forehead at 22°C (72°F).Then you shouldn’t install a unit like that and should rather invest in an air conditioning system [emoji28]
D
Deliverer8 Nov 2017 13:09As soon as the household budget "overflows," this is what gets done. Or if we have another summer like the last one, I’ll just rob a bank for it!
Unfortunately, the sensible options cost a bit...
Unfortunately, the sensible options cost a bit...
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HilfeHilfe8 Nov 2017 13:24onyx.dop schrieb:
Thank you for your responses.
What about so-called small storage stoves? For example, Brunner KSO, Niermann Type 01, or Brula City Grundi Quadro. These have nominal heat outputs of 1.7 / 1.5 or 2.8 kW. Do they "ease" the situation?
Regards.What is your motivation for this?
As already mentioned, you won’t save energy with an air-to-water heat pump because it’s pointless to constantly turn it on and off, and I am not aware of any heating system that self-regulates indoors in case of overheating.
Yes, the lower the nominal output, the less problematic the sauna-like warmth becomes.
If you don’t have a ventilation system, you won’t avoid having to ventilate by opening windows occasionally. Sometimes I even panic when lighting the stove, feeling like I’m suffocating^^ my wife already sees the romance flickering.