Hello!
We are planning to have a house built and are currently still in the initial planning phase. However, after a conversation with the architect, we are already considering heating options.
We are not building a KfW-certified house, but one strictly following the Energy Saving Ordinance. It will have about 220m² (2,368 sq ft) of living space plus a basement.
In various building specifications from contractors (we are having a turnkey build), we often see heat pumps that require an additional outdoor unit beside the system in the utility room. For aesthetic reasons, we are not very keen on that.
What alternatives are there for this kind of setup?
Gas heating combined with solar (the gas connection is available)?
Geothermal heat pumps?
Or other air-to-water heat pumps that do not require an outdoor unit?
We will probably have a hipped roof (with regard to solar panels). With a flat roof, the panels look quite unattractive.
We are planning to have a house built and are currently still in the initial planning phase. However, after a conversation with the architect, we are already considering heating options.
We are not building a KfW-certified house, but one strictly following the Energy Saving Ordinance. It will have about 220m² (2,368 sq ft) of living space plus a basement.
In various building specifications from contractors (we are having a turnkey build), we often see heat pumps that require an additional outdoor unit beside the system in the utility room. For aesthetic reasons, we are not very keen on that.
What alternatives are there for this kind of setup?
Gas heating combined with solar (the gas connection is available)?
Geothermal heat pumps?
Or other air-to-water heat pumps that do not require an outdoor unit?
We will probably have a hipped roof (with regard to solar panels). With a flat roof, the panels look quite unattractive.
R.Hotzenplotz schrieb:
So you can design the underfloor heating to have 23°C (73°F) in the bathroom, 18°C (64°F) in the bedroom, 21°C (70°F) in other rooms, and 20°C (68°F) in the kitchen? That would be very bad for resale since it’s a highly customized setupYou adjust all rooms once at the heating circuit manifold. Any further weather-related adjustments are then made centrally at the boiler via the set parameters and heating curves.
As mentioned before, the issue is either direct sunlight or a problem with the insulation. Underfloor heating responds more slowly when heating up compared to radiators, but hardly differs when switching off. Both systems stop heating completely when turned off and do not provide active cooling. Both systems warm up floors and walls, which then continue to release heat afterward, with underfloor heating doing this slightly more.
Insulation plays a much bigger role in how slowly a house cools down. A modern house loses very little heat and therefore takes a long time to cool. Even when temperatures outside suddenly drop below freezing, the slowest underfloor heating system will still adjust faster than the house itself cools down. If the temperature drops by a few degrees during the day, there is a problem with the insulation.
The same applies in summer. When it gets warmer outside, the outdoor sensor controls the system and switches off the heating before heat can enter the house. However, if heat comes in directly as sunlight through the windows, this will significantly warm the house independently of the heating system. Shading is the solution in such cases.
Insulation plays a much bigger role in how slowly a house cools down. A modern house loses very little heat and therefore takes a long time to cool. Even when temperatures outside suddenly drop below freezing, the slowest underfloor heating system will still adjust faster than the house itself cools down. If the temperature drops by a few degrees during the day, there is a problem with the insulation.
The same applies in summer. When it gets warmer outside, the outdoor sensor controls the system and switches off the heating before heat can enter the house. However, if heat comes in directly as sunlight through the windows, this will significantly warm the house independently of the heating system. Shading is the solution in such cases.
R
R.Hotzenplotz5 Jun 2017 12:10@Sascha:
It becomes quite difficult to verify the proper installation and correct planning of the underfloor heating. In case of any issues, it will certainly be even more challenging to claim a warranty and provide the necessary evidence.
Since I’m reading about the outdoor sensor—it's placed on the north side, so it generally measures cooler temperatures.
It becomes quite difficult to verify the proper installation and correct planning of the underfloor heating. In case of any issues, it will certainly be even more challenging to claim a warranty and provide the necessary evidence.
Since I’m reading about the outdoor sensor—it's placed on the north side, so it generally measures cooler temperatures.
How do you manage to keep 18°C (64°F) in the bedroom? We can’t even achieve that in winter when the heating there is set to frost protection all the time. New houses are just too well insulated. 20°C (68°F) in the hallway is enough for the bedroom to easily reach 18°C (64°F) — with the door closed, of course.
Yes, that’s why the heating load should be calculated for each room individually rather than estimated. This way, the underfloor heating can also be planned according to the desired room temperature. It’s hardly feasible to do this properly as an amateur. That’s what professionals are for.
As far as I know, individual room control is required by energy-saving regulations (e.g., energy saving ordinance), but it is not necessary if the system is planned correctly.
Here, everything is designed and set up so that the heating system always delivers the supply temperature needed to maintain the room temperature.
It’s difficult to explain this fully in a single post.
By the way, I did the same with radiators in my own home. The thermostats are only used when I light the fireplace in winter. Otherwise, everything runs smoothly.
Cooling with a heat pump probably works best with a ceiling heating system and is, of course, not comparable to air conditioning.
You might achieve different temperatures if you insulate the bedroom wall facing adjacent rooms.
High bathroom temperatures often require a wall heating system.
As far as I know, individual room control is required by energy-saving regulations (e.g., energy saving ordinance), but it is not necessary if the system is planned correctly.
Here, everything is designed and set up so that the heating system always delivers the supply temperature needed to maintain the room temperature.
It’s difficult to explain this fully in a single post.
By the way, I did the same with radiators in my own home. The thermostats are only used when I light the fireplace in winter. Otherwise, everything runs smoothly.
Cooling with a heat pump probably works best with a ceiling heating system and is, of course, not comparable to air conditioning.
You might achieve different temperatures if you insulate the bedroom wall facing adjacent rooms.
High bathroom temperatures often require a wall heating system.
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