ᐅ Poroton T14 or Autoclaved Aerated Concrete (AAC) Klimanorm PP2
Created on: 21 May 2010 08:09
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eliot398
Hello everyone,
With my developer, I have the choice between Poroton bricks and the mentioned aerated concrete. The wall thickness is 36.5 cm (14.4 inches) for both materials. My gut feeling leans more toward Poroton bricks. However, I would be glad to be convinced otherwise. I would appreciate any feedback on the advantages and disadvantages of both options.
Thank you in advance and best regards.
eliot398
With my developer, I have the choice between Poroton bricks and the mentioned aerated concrete. The wall thickness is 36.5 cm (14.4 inches) for both materials. My gut feeling leans more toward Poroton bricks. However, I would be glad to be convinced otherwise. I would appreciate any feedback on the advantages and disadvantages of both options.
Thank you in advance and best regards.
eliot398
eliot398 schrieb:
Hello,
I don’t understand the 4! in your reply?! Could some text be missing here?
Best regards. No, it’s simply highlighted. To reiterate: In my view, these are no longer bricks in the traditional sense. Just a building material! Just like today, when construction is mostly done by adhesive bonding rather than traditional masonry. Maybe this clarifies things a bit.
Best regards
B
Bulla200018 Oct 2010 09:49I’d like to join this thread.
I’m facing a similar issue. The developer D is offering a masonry wall using Wienerberger Poroton T10 bricks at 36.5cm (14.4 inches) thickness in their package. The remaining competitor proposes Ytong aerated concrete blocks of the same thickness instead. The thermal conductivity of Ytong is 0.09, while the T10 is 0.1. Both would also be willing to build with the other material, as each has its own advantages and disadvantages.
But which material offers the best compromise?
Poroton advantages: sound insulation, quick drying
Poroton disadvantages: potential issues with load-bearing fixings (pictures, shelves, cupboards, etc.) due to many cavities, and problems with electrical installations (holes for flush-mounted boxes damage the chamber structure and are difficult to repair).
Ytong (aerated concrete) disadvantages: sensitivity to moisture, sound insulation.
According to developer P from Weimar, the T10 is also crack-prone, requiring a special mesh plaster application and still carrying the risk of minor cracks that need to be repainted or filled afterwards. According to my preferred developer D from Sondershausen/Erfurt, there are no problems if it is plastered professionally.
What about the moisture sensitivity of aerated concrete? I understand that both materials must be covered horizontally during the construction phase. Rain hitting the sides is not a problem. Also, the exterior plaster is waterproof, so this issue should only occur during the construction phase, right?
Noise issues are less of a concern for us, but might become relevant depending on who else is building next to us.
So, which material is better overall? Even the advisor from the Homeowners Protection Association (Bauherren-Schutzbund e.V.) said both materials have the above-mentioned pros and cons and that neither is “better” than the other.
Please help me.
I’m facing a similar issue. The developer D is offering a masonry wall using Wienerberger Poroton T10 bricks at 36.5cm (14.4 inches) thickness in their package. The remaining competitor proposes Ytong aerated concrete blocks of the same thickness instead. The thermal conductivity of Ytong is 0.09, while the T10 is 0.1. Both would also be willing to build with the other material, as each has its own advantages and disadvantages.
But which material offers the best compromise?
Poroton advantages: sound insulation, quick drying
Poroton disadvantages: potential issues with load-bearing fixings (pictures, shelves, cupboards, etc.) due to many cavities, and problems with electrical installations (holes for flush-mounted boxes damage the chamber structure and are difficult to repair).
Ytong (aerated concrete) disadvantages: sensitivity to moisture, sound insulation.
According to developer P from Weimar, the T10 is also crack-prone, requiring a special mesh plaster application and still carrying the risk of minor cracks that need to be repainted or filled afterwards. According to my preferred developer D from Sondershausen/Erfurt, there are no problems if it is plastered professionally.
What about the moisture sensitivity of aerated concrete? I understand that both materials must be covered horizontally during the construction phase. Rain hitting the sides is not a problem. Also, the exterior plaster is waterproof, so this issue should only occur during the construction phase, right?
Noise issues are less of a concern for us, but might become relevant depending on who else is building next to us.
So, which material is better overall? Even the advisor from the Homeowners Protection Association (Bauherren-Schutzbund e.V.) said both materials have the above-mentioned pros and cons and that neither is “better” than the other.
Please help me.
B
Bauexperte18 Oct 2010 15:38Hello,
For Poroton, there are specific anchors, which – at first glance – is the only “disadvantage.” With 36.5cm (14.4 inches) Ytong®, sound insulation is no longer a significant issue, as long as the other building components are appropriate for the overall construction. Regarding moisture absorption – I recommend buying a Ytong® block and then soaking it in water overnight. That quickly disproves the supposed arguments of the competition – learning by doing.
The main difference lies in the varying thermal insulation values. With Poroton, external thermal insulation composite systems (ETICS, also known as external wall insulation) are mandatory, while with aerated concrete this is not necessarily required. If you choose Poroton with ETICS, you should not skimp on controlled ventilation, as otherwise there is a risk of mold formation. With aerated concrete, a ventilation system can be omitted – overall, the indoor climate is better. Feed Aunt Google with “building biology” and you will find enough information about both systems.
If both blocks are installed according to applicable regulations and DIN standards, then only your gut feeling can answer that question.
Best regards
Bulla2000 schrieb:
But which block offers the best compromise? Advantage of Poroton: sound insulation, quick drying. Disadvantage of Poroton: due to the many chambers, possible issues with load-bearing attachments (pictures, shelves, cabinets, etc.) and electrical installation (holes for flush-mounted boxes can damage the chamber structure, need to be filled). Disadvantage of Ytong (aerated concrete): sensitivity to moisture, sound insulation.
For Poroton, there are specific anchors, which – at first glance – is the only “disadvantage.” With 36.5cm (14.4 inches) Ytong®, sound insulation is no longer a significant issue, as long as the other building components are appropriate for the overall construction. Regarding moisture absorption – I recommend buying a Ytong® block and then soaking it in water overnight. That quickly disproves the supposed arguments of the competition – learning by doing.
The main difference lies in the varying thermal insulation values. With Poroton, external thermal insulation composite systems (ETICS, also known as external wall insulation) are mandatory, while with aerated concrete this is not necessarily required. If you choose Poroton with ETICS, you should not skimp on controlled ventilation, as otherwise there is a risk of mold formation. With aerated concrete, a ventilation system can be omitted – overall, the indoor climate is better. Feed Aunt Google with “building biology” and you will find enough information about both systems.
Bulla2000 schrieb:
So which block is better overall???
If both blocks are installed according to applicable regulations and DIN standards, then only your gut feeling can answer that question.
Best regards
B
Bauexperte19 Oct 2010 13:04Hello Bulla,
Isn’t the key factor the U-value?
Walls made of hollow bricks without infill have higher thermal conductivity in the vertical direction, especially if they were built with conventional thin-bed mortar which does not reliably seal the holes, leading to convection. Also, hollow bricks without infill that have low thermal conductivity only provide limited fire resistance; however, in recent years Poroton bricks with perlite filling have been available on the market. Compared to conventional hollow bricks, these offer better thermal insulation and higher fire resistance, which means increased costs for the masonry. In addition, hollow bricks are a challenge for any electrician regardless.
This “issue” does not arise with aerated concrete, and the last 2 decibels difference in sound insulation when comparing Poroton and aerated concrete in a 36.5cm (14.4 inches) wall are truly negligible.
Kind regards
Bulla2000 schrieb:
I can’t agree with your statement that an external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS) must always be installed on Poroton masonry. Why should that be done? To meet energy saving regulations / KfW requirements? Several reputable developers haven’t mentioned this to me. The T10 with 36.5cm (14.4 inches) has only a slightly worse thermal conductivity compared to Ytong aerated concrete. We will install a controlled mechanical ventilation system. Without ETICS, because I definitely want to build with a single-layer wall and have a "real masonry wall."
Isn’t the key factor the U-value?
Walls made of hollow bricks without infill have higher thermal conductivity in the vertical direction, especially if they were built with conventional thin-bed mortar which does not reliably seal the holes, leading to convection. Also, hollow bricks without infill that have low thermal conductivity only provide limited fire resistance; however, in recent years Poroton bricks with perlite filling have been available on the market. Compared to conventional hollow bricks, these offer better thermal insulation and higher fire resistance, which means increased costs for the masonry. In addition, hollow bricks are a challenge for any electrician regardless.
This “issue” does not arise with aerated concrete, and the last 2 decibels difference in sound insulation when comparing Poroton and aerated concrete in a 36.5cm (14.4 inches) wall are truly negligible.
Kind regards
I built with 30 cm (12 inches) Poroton blocks and added a brick veneer wall in front. Great indoor climate. Poroton also retains heat inside the house. You can hang pictures and other items directly on the wall. If your house isn’t finished yet, Poroton will not absorb rain, and drying time is also short. For me, only Poroton.
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