Hello,
we are currently struggling with our heating system. It is warm everywhere in the house—both on the ground floor and in the heated basement room—around 21-22°C (70-72°F). However, the temperature in all rooms in the attic is noticeably lower, usually about 2°C (3.6°F) difference. This is problematic because a) it is too cold and b) it also affects the bathroom.
We have already tried various measures. We adjusted the heating curve, the manufacturer’s service performed a firmware update, and the hydraulic balancing was done again... but the problem remains the same. The attic stays consistently about 2°C (3.6°F) cooler than the other floors. The heating technician said this is normal because of the many windows and that it always tends to be cooler in the attic. He advised us to simply increase the supply water temperature. But that can’t be the solution, right? Although this raises the temperature in the attic, we then have to lower the temperature on the ground floor because otherwise it becomes too hot. The 2°C (3.6°F) difference always stays the same. We have solid ceilings and walls, underfloor heating everywhere, and the room thermostats turned up fully.
Is this really normal, or is the heating technician just trying to sell us that because he has no other ideas? What is your experience? Do you also have such temperature differences?
we are currently struggling with our heating system. It is warm everywhere in the house—both on the ground floor and in the heated basement room—around 21-22°C (70-72°F). However, the temperature in all rooms in the attic is noticeably lower, usually about 2°C (3.6°F) difference. This is problematic because a) it is too cold and b) it also affects the bathroom.
We have already tried various measures. We adjusted the heating curve, the manufacturer’s service performed a firmware update, and the hydraulic balancing was done again... but the problem remains the same. The attic stays consistently about 2°C (3.6°F) cooler than the other floors. The heating technician said this is normal because of the many windows and that it always tends to be cooler in the attic. He advised us to simply increase the supply water temperature. But that can’t be the solution, right? Although this raises the temperature in the attic, we then have to lower the temperature on the ground floor because otherwise it becomes too hot. The 2°C (3.6°F) difference always stays the same. We have solid ceilings and walls, underfloor heating everywhere, and the room thermostats turned up fully.
Is this really normal, or is the heating technician just trying to sell us that because he has no other ideas? What is your experience? Do you also have such temperature differences?
P
Peanuts747 Mar 2017 12:33If we open all the thermostats fully, there is also a temperature difference between the ground floor and the top floor. This makes sense to me, since the top floor essentially has the roof acting as an exterior wall. Additionally, the water in the supply line may cool down slightly on its longer path from the basement to the top floor, despite insulation.
markus27037 Mar 2017 12:37Peanuts74 schrieb:
If we open all the thermostats completely, there is still a temperature difference between the ground floor and the attic.
That makes sense to me, since in the attic the roof acts as an "external wall." Additionally, the water in the supply line might cool down slightly on its longer path from the basement to the attic, even with insulation.That’s exactly what I already said. It’s just logical, and the difference is only about 1°C (1.8°F)...
Increase the supply temperature until it’s right upstairs, and then adjust accordingly downstairs. Problem solved.
P
Peanuts747 Mar 2017 12:55In most cases, the bedroom is supposed to be a bit cooler, while the towel radiator in the bathroom still provides good heating...
What surprises me a bit are the supply temperatures of 32 or 35 degrees Celsius (90 or 95 degrees Fahrenheit)? We have a supply temperature of 28°C (82°F) at 0°C (32°F) outside and maintain indoor temperatures between 23 and 24°C (73 and 75°F) in the living room...
What surprises me a bit are the supply temperatures of 32 or 35 degrees Celsius (90 or 95 degrees Fahrenheit)? We have a supply temperature of 28°C (82°F) at 0°C (32°F) outside and maintain indoor temperatures between 23 and 24°C (73 and 75°F) in the living room...
If I were you, I would check one more thing before increasing the supply temperature and throttling the rooms in the basement and ground floor.
Water always follows the path of least resistance, which in your case is the basement and the ground floor. Therefore, I would verify whether the pump delivers the required amount of water to fully supply the heating circuits on the upper floor. If it does not, you will have full flow in the basement and ground floor, but slower flow on the upper floor.
If the hydraulic balancing has been done, the calculated flow rates for all heating circuits should be available. Add up the flow rates for all heating circuits and then check whether the pump, with its current settings, can deliver the needed amount of water. If it cannot, increase the pump speed by one level and monitor the temperature on the upper floor.
By the way, ERR is a very controversial topic in other forums as well. I cannot say what is better; that is something everyone has to decide for themselves.
Water always follows the path of least resistance, which in your case is the basement and the ground floor. Therefore, I would verify whether the pump delivers the required amount of water to fully supply the heating circuits on the upper floor. If it does not, you will have full flow in the basement and ground floor, but slower flow on the upper floor.
If the hydraulic balancing has been done, the calculated flow rates for all heating circuits should be available. Add up the flow rates for all heating circuits and then check whether the pump, with its current settings, can deliver the needed amount of water. If it cannot, increase the pump speed by one level and monitor the temperature on the upper floor.
By the way, ERR is a very controversial topic in other forums as well. I cannot say what is better; that is something everyone has to decide for themselves.
K
Knallkörper7 Mar 2017 13:08toddo schrieb:
Water follows the path of least resistance, which in your case is the basement and the ground floor. Therefore, I would check if the pump delivers the required amount of water to supply the heating circuits on the upper floor fully. If it doesn’t, you have full flow in the basement and ground floor, but slower flow on the upper floor.Why should the flow on the upper floor be slower compared to the ground floor? That is not physically plausible.
Peanuts74 schrieb:
Additionally, the water in the supply line might cool down a bit on the longer path from the basement up to the attic, even with insulation.To measure this cooling, you would need a highly precise measuring device. The heat loss along this section is practically zero.
Peanuts74 schrieb:
In most cases, the bedroom is supposed to be a bit cooler, while the towel warmer in the bathroom still provides good heat... What surprises me a bit are the supply temperatures of 32 or 35 degrees Celsius (90 or 95°F)? We have a supply temperature of 28°C (82°F) at 0°C (32°F) outside, with indoor temperatures between 23 and 24°C (73 and 75°F) in the living room...Do you perhaps have a closer pipe spacing because of the heat pump? At least that’s the case for us. Then a higher supply temperature isn’t needed.
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