ᐅ Insulating a New Build with 36.5 cm Aerated Concrete Blocks?
Created on: 17 Jan 2014 14:00
B
bygoran
Hello
our new build starts on Monday.
I am considering insulating the 36.5cm (14.4 inches) aerated concrete wall right away while the scaffolding is still in place.
We are building without KfW funding but want to insulate as well as possible.
According to a U-value calculator, I need 200mm (8 inches) of insulation to avoid moisture problems. Is that correct?
Can someone provide more detailed information? Or calculate exactly how thick the insulation needs to be to avoid any issues.
A controlled mechanical ventilation system with heat recovery is also planned.
The last ceiling below the cold roof is made of 24cm (9.5 inches) concrete, and I plan to add 240mm (9.4 inches) mineral wool insulation with a thermal conductivity of 0.035 W/(m·K). Is that sufficient?
I would appreciate any information.
our new build starts on Monday.
I am considering insulating the 36.5cm (14.4 inches) aerated concrete wall right away while the scaffolding is still in place.
We are building without KfW funding but want to insulate as well as possible.
According to a U-value calculator, I need 200mm (8 inches) of insulation to avoid moisture problems. Is that correct?
Can someone provide more detailed information? Or calculate exactly how thick the insulation needs to be to avoid any issues.
A controlled mechanical ventilation system with heat recovery is also planned.
The last ceiling below the cold roof is made of 24cm (9.5 inches) concrete, and I plan to add 240mm (9.4 inches) mineral wool insulation with a thermal conductivity of 0.035 W/(m·K). Is that sufficient?
I would appreciate any information.
Good morning,
Thank you for the quick responses.
Regarding air source heat pumps, the energy consultant mentioned that nowadays they can operate without electricity down to about -10°C (14°F). Only below that temperature does an electric heating element need to warm up the outside air. This effect can be further reduced by installing photovoltaic panels on the roof (payback period around 12 years - costs about 1400€ per kWh). He was not in favor of solar thermal systems and advised against using them.
Thank you for the quick responses.
Regarding air source heat pumps, the energy consultant mentioned that nowadays they can operate without electricity down to about -10°C (14°F). Only below that temperature does an electric heating element need to warm up the outside air. This effect can be further reduced by installing photovoltaic panels on the roof (payback period around 12 years - costs about 1400€ per kWh). He was not in favor of solar thermal systems and advised against using them.
Again, just a half-truth!
Air-to-water heat pumps combined with solar thermal systems don’t make sense!
Our air-to-water heat pump recorded zero operating hours during the cold temperatures in January at an indoor temperature of 23°C (73°F) in a "kfw70" standard house.
Photovoltaic systems without storage are also only a partial solution, and the costs probably never really pay off.
Air-to-water heat pumps combined with solar thermal systems don’t make sense!
Our air-to-water heat pump recorded zero operating hours during the cold temperatures in January at an indoor temperature of 23°C (73°F) in a "kfw70" standard house.
Photovoltaic systems without storage are also only a partial solution, and the costs probably never really pay off.
Folks. I’m not a technician or an engineer, and I’m not particularly interested in technology. I just want it to work. Both the builder and the heating installer recommended using a combination of solar thermal, gas heating, and Ytong blocks. Because it is the most cost-effective option for both purchase and operating costs. Of course, this air-to-water heat pump heats without gas, using air and electricity. It’s essentially a pump, like a reverse refrigerator. The energy savings, I was told, are hardly enough to compensate for the higher system costs; one or two severe winters completely ruin the balance. They are also said to be more prone to repairs. Solar is affordable and proven. Plus, we have a south-facing roof with no trees blocking it.
Ytong also works. It’s used millions of times, sound insulation is a bit worse, but so what, we live in a rural area. On the other hand, there’s no polystyrene on the walls. And the masonry crew can finish the shell construction within a week. The blocks reduce labor costs, which you can see in the house price. Oh, and you can easily hammer a nail into the wall later. That’s also nice.
Ytong also works. It’s used millions of times, sound insulation is a bit worse, but so what, we live in a rural area. On the other hand, there’s no polystyrene on the walls. And the masonry crew can finish the shell construction within a week. The blocks reduce labor costs, which you can see in the house price. Oh, and you can easily hammer a nail into the wall later. That’s also nice.
Ickes schrieb:
Regarding the air source heat pump, the energy consultant said that nowadays these can operate without electricity down to -10°C (14°F). Only then does an electric heating element need to "warm up" the outside air. Pass me the popcorn... where did you find this "energy consultant"? Send him into the desert!
The heating element is there to defrost the fan in the outdoor unit; don’t send him into the desert, send him to training instead!
Nordlys schrieb:
The energy savings effect, I was told, is hardly worth the extra cost of the system; one or two harsh, really harsh winters completely ruin the balance.The word "one" seems to be used to explain everything here. It seems to me that all the narrow-minded people have gathered here.Similar topics