ᐅ Burglary Protection – Upgrading Windows from Resistance Class WK2 to WK3 – Alarm System?
Created on: 13 Jan 2017 09:52
M
Mycraft
Hello dear forum community,
Due to recent events, I would like to ask how new and experienced homeowners think about burglary protection and what measures they have installed or are planning to install. Also, whether anyone has had good or bad experiences with certain products.
Now, regarding the current situation: last week, there was a break-in at our immediate neighbors’ houses and then at two houses behind us.
In one case, there was an attempt to lift the front door, but the triple locking mechanism held... then the intruder tried the terrace door (security level WK1), which gave way.
At the other house, an attempt was made at a small window behind the house (WK3), which also failed, and then at the terrace door (WK3). Here, the roller shutter was torn off and the triple glazing was smashed.
In summary, jewelry, electronics, and all small valuable items were stolen, as well as coats and similar items. Larger items were left behind, but everything was thoroughly searched and violently broken into.
The day before yesterday, another break-in occurred a few streets away… all around dusk, about 5-6 pm.
We have WK2 windows, and I will now upgrade them to WK3 (already ordered). But what about the glass? I won’t be able to replace all panes with laminated glass, it’s just not feasible. Has anyone had experience with films that are applied from the inside (300 mil)?
Besides that, we have video surveillance all around... We are now installing ten 20W LED floodlights around the house, which turn on when motion is detected and stay on for a while (directed away from the house).
Additionally, a siren will be installed on the roof, connected to the KNX alarm system, which will activate in case of glass breakage or unauthorized window opening. (I still have to buy the glass break detectors).
For the large windows, I have also ordered rod locks because the weak point is in the middle where there is no central bar.
Due to recent events, I would like to ask how new and experienced homeowners think about burglary protection and what measures they have installed or are planning to install. Also, whether anyone has had good or bad experiences with certain products.
Now, regarding the current situation: last week, there was a break-in at our immediate neighbors’ houses and then at two houses behind us.
In one case, there was an attempt to lift the front door, but the triple locking mechanism held... then the intruder tried the terrace door (security level WK1), which gave way.
At the other house, an attempt was made at a small window behind the house (WK3), which also failed, and then at the terrace door (WK3). Here, the roller shutter was torn off and the triple glazing was smashed.
In summary, jewelry, electronics, and all small valuable items were stolen, as well as coats and similar items. Larger items were left behind, but everything was thoroughly searched and violently broken into.
The day before yesterday, another break-in occurred a few streets away… all around dusk, about 5-6 pm.
We have WK2 windows, and I will now upgrade them to WK3 (already ordered). But what about the glass? I won’t be able to replace all panes with laminated glass, it’s just not feasible. Has anyone had experience with films that are applied from the inside (300 mil)?
Besides that, we have video surveillance all around... We are now installing ten 20W LED floodlights around the house, which turn on when motion is detected and stay on for a while (directed away from the house).
Additionally, a siren will be installed on the roof, connected to the KNX alarm system, which will activate in case of glass breakage or unauthorized window opening. (I still have to buy the glass break detectors).
For the large windows, I have also ordered rod locks because the weak point is in the middle where there is no central bar.
I don’t want to dampen the enthusiasm and I’m the last person to oppose improved protection. However, the issue is not quite as straightforward with RC2 or RC3 ratings.
Even if the quality, design, and number of hardware components are increased, the construction type also plays a crucial role. For example, windows with a mullion (also called a “stulp” window) have certain disadvantages in terms of security.
Above all, the metal profiles within the window frame are important. DIY store windows often don’t have any metal reinforcement at all. Window manufacturers do install metal reinforcements, but these are usually designed primarily for structural stability and are no thicker than a sheet of metal. This means that under force, even the best hardware might not hold securely in the frame.
The same applies to the glass: if the sash profile is not reinforced, it unfortunately provides only a false sense of security.
In Germany, there are some certified window manufacturers that can offer RC2, but far fewer that are certified for RC3—and among those, even fewer offer RC3 in uPVC (plastic) frames. The requirements are straightforward: the method of forced entry and the time allowed are specified. For RC2 it’s 3 minutes, for RC3 it’s 5 minutes—and these times can feel very long. That’s why some manufacturers already bond the glass at the RC2 level to pass the test.
Simply search for “K-Einbruch” and, for new builds, consult the police manufacturer directory. It lists German window manufacturers along with the certified construction types and materials used.
Even if the quality, design, and number of hardware components are increased, the construction type also plays a crucial role. For example, windows with a mullion (also called a “stulp” window) have certain disadvantages in terms of security.
Above all, the metal profiles within the window frame are important. DIY store windows often don’t have any metal reinforcement at all. Window manufacturers do install metal reinforcements, but these are usually designed primarily for structural stability and are no thicker than a sheet of metal. This means that under force, even the best hardware might not hold securely in the frame.
The same applies to the glass: if the sash profile is not reinforced, it unfortunately provides only a false sense of security.
In Germany, there are some certified window manufacturers that can offer RC2, but far fewer that are certified for RC3—and among those, even fewer offer RC3 in uPVC (plastic) frames. The requirements are straightforward: the method of forced entry and the time allowed are specified. For RC2 it’s 3 minutes, for RC3 it’s 5 minutes—and these times can feel very long. That’s why some manufacturers already bond the glass at the RC2 level to pass the test.
Simply search for “K-Einbruch” and, for new builds, consult the police manufacturer directory. It lists German window manufacturers along with the certified construction types and materials used.
Regarding the topic of 7-point locking systems:
This is offered by some manufacturers, for example in combination with electric locks. These have so-called panic locks, meaning that even when the house is locked, pressing the inner handle from the inside will open the door.
Many modern front doors have at least one side panel.
If laminated safety glass (LSG) is not used there at a minimum, ...
This is offered by some manufacturers, for example in combination with electric locks. These have so-called panic locks, meaning that even when the house is locked, pressing the inner handle from the inside will open the door.
Many modern front doors have at least one side panel.
If laminated safety glass (LSG) is not used there at a minimum, ...
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