Hello,
My husband and I are currently trying to decide which heating system to install in our planned house.
I insist on having a ventilation system and a wood-burning stove in the living room. So the heating should be compatible with these.
Our chosen construction company has now offered us three heat pumps:
Air-to-water heat pump: Nibe F2040-8 with Nibe VVM320
Exhaust air heat pump: Nibe F750 P with supply air module SAM 40
Ground source heat pump: Nibe 1245-6 with deep drilling
My husband currently prefers the exhaust air heat pump because he thinks it works like the air-to-water heat pump but makes better use of the warm air from running computers... Everywhere I read, though, it says: "Avoid exhaust air heat pumps unless you are building a passive house."
Does the supply air module actually make it function somewhat like an air-to-water heat pump, but with better use of the warm indoor air?
The house is planned as a two-story timber frame construction with KfW 55 standard. To be honest, I am completely overwhelmed by this complicated heating topic. The more information I get, the more complex it seems.
My husband and I are currently trying to decide which heating system to install in our planned house.
I insist on having a ventilation system and a wood-burning stove in the living room. So the heating should be compatible with these.
Our chosen construction company has now offered us three heat pumps:
Air-to-water heat pump: Nibe F2040-8 with Nibe VVM320
Exhaust air heat pump: Nibe F750 P with supply air module SAM 40
Ground source heat pump: Nibe 1245-6 with deep drilling
My husband currently prefers the exhaust air heat pump because he thinks it works like the air-to-water heat pump but makes better use of the warm air from running computers... Everywhere I read, though, it says: "Avoid exhaust air heat pumps unless you are building a passive house."
Does the supply air module actually make it function somewhat like an air-to-water heat pump, but with better use of the warm indoor air?
The house is planned as a two-story timber frame construction with KfW 55 standard. To be honest, I am completely overwhelmed by this complicated heating topic. The more information I get, the more complex it seems.
That doesn’t exist because it will never fully fit your specific situation. What good is a standardized study if one heating system is still more efficient and practical for you than another?
Even the location and the associated temperatures affect the effectiveness and cost-efficiency of the heating system. Where an air-to-water heat pump works perfectly, it can become too expensive in very cold areas.
And so on. As BeHaElJa already mentioned, there are too many influencing factors.
Even the location and the associated temperatures affect the effectiveness and cost-efficiency of the heating system. Where an air-to-water heat pump works perfectly, it can become too expensive in very cold areas.
And so on. As BeHaElJa already mentioned, there are too many influencing factors.
Saruss schrieb:
Some people built a bungalow on a small plot here, and the trench collector lifts the terrace by a few centimeters (inches) in winter because the pipe is a bit too small... It also depends on what else you want to do with the plot, for example planting, etc. And it needs to be approved. So you can’t just say it always works everywhere.
from on the goYou also don’t lay collectors under the terrace; if necessary, you run the pipes straight through and insulate that section. Settling or lifting can especially occur during the first few years.
By the way, you can easily plant on the plots above. Or do you all avoid planting any trees because the drinking water pipe runs into the house there? (It’s made of the same material as the brine pipes and lasts forever).
Sebastian79 schrieb:
Don’t act so know-it-all – it simply doesn’t work on every plot. And that’s not uncommon – definitely not something you can just do on the side. People often say that anyone can do it, but that’s a misconception.
For us, it would have been a significant effort, even if it were possible.
And yes, I researched in the pink forum and also used the trench tool, as well as had it used for me.
It wasn’t possible given the house size, the plot (520 m² (5,600 sq ft), sandy soil, no high groundwater), and the heating load (8.1 kW).A heating load of 8.1 kW does not suggest a modern, well-insulated house. For my 250 m² (2,690 sq ft) insulated surface, KfW55 standard, I have a heating load below 6.0 kW. It seems you are dealing with two factors (poor insulation + sandy soil) that make things difficult.
S
Sebastian7921 Aug 2016 10:04Unfortunately, you are mistaken about poor insulation – do you have more than just assumptions?
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