ᐅ Clarification question: Can you paint directly over plaster?
Created on: 23 Jul 2016 13:51
S
Sgt.Lapdance
Hello everyone,
I wanted to ask the following or see if anyone can give me tips on how to paint gypsum plaster directly. If the construction hadn’t eaten up all the money, I would have hired a professional painter, but there is little to no budget available...
(unfortunately, that’s really the case...)
We have mineral-based gypsum plaster, Multigips 2 Classic. It is troweled smooth. However, you can still see rough spots and small black dots all over the wall.
We tried smoothing the wall using a pole sander and an 80-grit sanding disc, but it didn’t really work. In one area it actually got worse.
How do you fix that? There are many areas on the walls that are very fine and smooth and then other parts that are quite rough.
After that, we planned to prime with Tiefengrund LF (deep-penetrating primer) and paint with Class 1 interior dispersion paint in bright white.
Was using the pole sander the right approach? Or should smoothing be done by hand? Which tool is recommended?
And how do we get rid of these damaged areas?
I will upload photos soon.
Best regards
I wanted to ask the following or see if anyone can give me tips on how to paint gypsum plaster directly. If the construction hadn’t eaten up all the money, I would have hired a professional painter, but there is little to no budget available...
(unfortunately, that’s really the case...)
We have mineral-based gypsum plaster, Multigips 2 Classic. It is troweled smooth. However, you can still see rough spots and small black dots all over the wall.
We tried smoothing the wall using a pole sander and an 80-grit sanding disc, but it didn’t really work. In one area it actually got worse.
How do you fix that? There are many areas on the walls that are very fine and smooth and then other parts that are quite rough.
After that, we planned to prime with Tiefengrund LF (deep-penetrating primer) and paint with Class 1 interior dispersion paint in bright white.
Was using the pole sander the right approach? Or should smoothing be done by hand? Which tool is recommended?
And how do we get rid of these damaged areas?
I will upload photos soon.
Best regards
Yes, you probably sanded a bit too much. Using 80-grit sandpaper, no wonder. We also refinished our gypsum plaster ourselves with a drywall sander and I think 160-grit sandpaper, then primed and painted with biosilicate paint. It looks great. Dents and similar imperfections were filled beforehand with gypsum filler.
First of all, thanks a lot for your advice. Yes, 80 grit is too coarse, but everything can be fixed.
I smoothed it today with fine filler. You can no longer see it.
Since I couldn’t sleep calmly anymore, I asked a friend who works in construction. I’m sharing what he told me here, maybe it helps someone else next time:
You need a smoothing trowel, fine finishing filler (costs less than 10€), a hand float, and sanding mesh with a grit size of 180 or 240.
You can also add a drop of paint to your primer (deep primer). That way, you can better see any air pockets or defects while priming. You might not have to scrape the entire wall.
Better to sand by hand—without a pole sander. The black stones are just the mineral content in the plaster.
If I had known about plaster levels like Q2 to Q4 earlier. My construction contract doesn’t mention this; it only said “smoothly plastered.”
Wallpapering is not that good, as it doesn’t allow the wall to breathe and it takes quite a while for everything to dry. I have 6m³ (210ft³) of liquid screed...
Best regards and have a nice Sunday!
I smoothed it today with fine filler. You can no longer see it.
Since I couldn’t sleep calmly anymore, I asked a friend who works in construction. I’m sharing what he told me here, maybe it helps someone else next time:
You need a smoothing trowel, fine finishing filler (costs less than 10€), a hand float, and sanding mesh with a grit size of 180 or 240.
You can also add a drop of paint to your primer (deep primer). That way, you can better see any air pockets or defects while priming. You might not have to scrape the entire wall.
Better to sand by hand—without a pole sander. The black stones are just the mineral content in the plaster.
If I had known about plaster levels like Q2 to Q4 earlier. My construction contract doesn’t mention this; it only said “smoothly plastered.”
Wallpapering is not that good, as it doesn’t allow the wall to breathe and it takes quite a while for everything to dry. I have 6m³ (210ft³) of liquid screed...
Best regards and have a nice Sunday!
B
Bauexperte24 Jul 2016 23:44Sgt.Lapdance schrieb:
You can also add a little bit of paint to your primer (penetrating primer). Not "can" – every DIY enthusiast should do this – a cup of paint added to a bucket of primer; this makes the final coat adhere better. If the chosen paint is a branded product from a specialized retailer – not a big-box store – this smart approach often eliminates the need for a second coat. Best regards, Bauexperte
Sgt.Lapdance schrieb:
.
Wallpapering isn’t ideal because it prevents the wall from breathing and it takes quite a while for everything to dry. I have 6 cubic meters (about 7.85 cubic yards) of flowing screed...
Best regards & have a nice SundayWalls are dead; they don’t breathe anymore anyway (I can’t help but say that). On the other hand, wallpaper is very permeable to moisture.From on the go
That might be the case. The master painter was at my place today. He said that for Q2, everything needs to be filled and smoothed. Then he would recommend a kind of renovation fleece underlayer and a silicate resin paint. Of course, sanding twice, priming, and so on.
I will still get a quote. But I think I have to do it myself. I had too many additional costs during construction ;-(
There’s also another issue:
I’m just saying, condensation/moisture on the slab...
I will still get a quote. But I think I have to do it myself. I had too many additional costs during construction ;-(
There’s also another issue:
I’m just saying, condensation/moisture on the slab...
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