I am currently looking for new faucets, starting with the bathroom. Right now, there is a common single-lever mixer, but in our case, the water is either hot/warm or cold and should not be mixed—or it would be pointless.
Is there another solution besides having two cold water taps connected separately to the respective pipes, since washbasins usually only have one hole?
Basically something like the old-style taps with turn knobs on the left and right, but without the turning handles. Maybe with push buttons?
It should be a bit modern. Also, you don’t want to have to turn the taps for ages until the strongest flow finally comes out.
I have also thought about sensor faucets, but I’m bothered by the batteries.
Somehow, I am missing the right term to search for (searching for “two-temperature faucet” or “faucet without mixer” returns no results).
Is there another solution besides having two cold water taps connected separately to the respective pipes, since washbasins usually only have one hole?
Basically something like the old-style taps with turn knobs on the left and right, but without the turning handles. Maybe with push buttons?
It should be a bit modern. Also, you don’t want to have to turn the taps for ages until the strongest flow finally comes out.
I have also thought about sensor faucets, but I’m bothered by the batteries.
Somehow, I am missing the right term to search for (searching for “two-temperature faucet” or “faucet without mixer” returns no results).
So, for gas, the cost per kWh is about one-third to one-quarter compared to electricity, which compensates for the low heat losses. In my previous apartment, the hot water was also heated using an on-demand system in the gas boiler, which combines both advantages.
sent from mobile
sent from mobile
Well... but a gas boiler keeps a 100-liter (approximately 26.4 gallons) storage tank at temperature 24 hours a day, plus reheats the water taken from it... An electric instantaneous water heater might heat about 60 liters (approximately 15.8 gallons) during half an hour each day...
Steffi33 schrieb:
Well... but a gas boiler keeps a 100-liter (approximately 26 gallons) tank at temperature 24 hours a day plus reheating the water that is drawn... An instantaneous water heater may heat about 60 liters (approximately 16 gallons) over half an hour per day... Reheating the water requires the same amount of energy whether using a tank or an instantaneous heater. The only difference is the energy needed to maintain the tank's temperature. Our tank loses less than 5 degrees Celsius (9°F) over 24 hours, which means around 15% energy loss (this matches the heat loss specifications from the manufacturer). With gas boilers, the energy cost is about a quarter compared to electric heating, so for the same cost as an electric instantaneous heater, the gas system could keep the water warm for 300/15 = 20 days (400% energy amount, minus 100% for initial heating and 15% daily to maintain temperature). I hope this calculation is sufficient to follow—if more numbers are needed, I’d require more input. Putputput.
It should also be noted that gas boilers do not reach their highest efficiency immediately after starting up; they need to "warm up" first (to put it simply, for example, the heat exchangers inside have to be heated). Therefore, it is more efficient to keep a storage tank heated than, for example, firing up the boiler briefly just for hand washing. This argues in favor of a small storage tank when comparing gas instantaneous heating versus gas with storage.
Similarly, an electric instantaneous water heater usually has even lower efficiency when heating many small amounts of water.
Writing from on the go.
Sir_Kermit24 Jul 2016 07:49Hello,
I understand that. This risk only occurs with storage tanks.
Kermit
typed on a tablet, please excuse any typos
Saruss schrieb:
With tankless water heaters, the risk of Legionella is virtually zero, since the water is constantly flushed through...
from the road
I understand that. This risk only occurs with storage tanks.
Kermit
typed on a tablet, please excuse any typos
Hello Saruss, thank you very much for the detailed explanation. This kind of information is exactly what’s very interesting. However, I didn’t quite understand the 20 days that come up in your calculation. Is that the time the tankless water heater could now run to compensate for the heat loss of the storage tank (from a cost perspective)? Best regards, Steffi.
Similar topics