ᐅ Cistern Dimensions – Building Plan Tips

Created on: 1 Jul 2016 15:22
M
McEgg
Hello,
I have a question regarding the offered cistern. Our development plan states the following:
C 3. Water Management
C 3.1 The hardening of open areas should be limited to a minimum. Parking spaces and driveways should be paved with permeable surfaces (e.g., grass pavers, paving with grass joints, gravel turf, or similar).
C 3.2 The uncontaminated rainwater collected on private properties must be retained on the site and infiltrated or used as non-potable water.
Only wastewater must be directed to the sewage treatment plant.
C 3.3 A management concept must be developed and coordinated with SGD Süd, RS WAB, Neustadt for the disposal/use of rainwater that is not significantly polluted.

The general contractor suggested that we install a cistern in the garden.
The current offer includes a cistern with a capacity of 4,000 liters (1,057 gallons).
The plot is approximately 540 m² (5,813 sq ft) in total. The house will be roughly 10 m x 11 m (33 ft x 36 ft), plus a double garage of 6 m x 6 m (20 ft x 20 ft), and a terrace...
Do you think this size is too small?
f-pNo4 Jul 2016 13:48
@Musketier
The original poster (OP) has an obligation to ensure that the water either soaks away or is otherwise used.
Therefore, at least part of the costs would need to be invested to implement at least one type of infiltration system. Of course, one could also consider whether adding an amount X on top would be sensible.

By the way – I find the statement that no connection to the sewer system is allowed (not even an overflow) quite surprising.
The argument always referred to the last, very dry year. BUT:
If I look at this year, when 145 liters per square meter (5.1 gallons per square yard) of rainfall was recorded in June in Rhineland-Palatinate, even a 10 cubic meter (3,530 gallons) rainwater tank wouldn’t be sufficient.
11 by 10 square meters (118 by 107 square feet) base area = more than 110 square meters (1,184 square feet) (actually even larger due to the slope)
110 square meters × 145 liters = nearly 16,000 liters (4,230 gallons)

So – "The tank is full, uh uh uh, the tank is full ..."

There were no significant withdrawals in June – no reason to use much water.
Unfortunately, the tank was already well filled before that this year. So – where to put the rest? Infiltration could also have been difficult in June this year, since the soil was already saturated.
Musketier4 Jul 2016 14:08
@f-pNo
It is correct that the original poster has an obligation, which is why I limited my comment to those who do not have to build a rainwater cistern.

11 x 10 floor area = over 110 m² (actually even larger because of the roof slope)
110 m² x 145 l = nearly 16,000 liters

In my opinion, the slope has no significant impact, only the roof overhang does.
In addition, there is the 36 m² (387 ft²) double garage. So in total, already about 20 m³ (706 ft³).

I was also surprised by the original poster’s statement to reduce the size of the cistern and instead drill a well, because that would only make the overflow problem worse. Also, this would involve an additional investment, which probably wouldn’t pay off either and is not mandatory. If he is not allowed to discharge any water, he would likely have to build an infiltration trench behind it or contaminate the water in order to be permitted to discharge.
f-pNo4 Jul 2016 14:30
Musketier schrieb:
@f-pNo

In addition, there is the 36m² (387 sq ft) double garage. So the total volume is already 20m³ (706 cu ft).

I was also surprised by the original poster’s statement about reducing the size of the cistern and instead drilling a well, as that would make the overflow problem even worse. Moreover, this would involve an additional investment that probably wouldn’t be cost-effective and is not mandatory. If he is not allowed to discharge water at all, he would likely have to install a soakaway for infiltration behind it or contaminate the water to be permitted to discharge it.

I completely overlooked the garage .

I assume the idea of drilling a well came up due to the discussion about "whether a cistern is worth it or not" and "how much water is needed for irrigation." Therefore, he wanted to reduce the size of the cistern as much as possible and drill instead. However, in my opinion, a significant portion of the mentioned costs is related to earthworks. When we were considering whether to go for a 5m³ (176 cu ft) or 10m³ (353 cu ft) concrete cistern, by the way, our general contractor said that the additional costs would be in the range of 500 to 800 euros (max. 1,000).
In this scenario, the original poster might even skip the cistern entirely and only install an infiltration system that fully absorbs the water (if the soil conditions allow it). The money saved could then indeed be invested in drilling the well.
S
Steven
5 Jul 2016 10:16
Hello

I have a 10 m³ (13 yd³) concrete cistern. Although it was installed 10 years ago, the bare tank cost about 2,000 Deutsche Marks including transport. Then another 1,000 for the piping and filter. I am very satisfied with it. Always cool, clear water. The overflow drains into the sewer system. In the basement, I have a domestic water system, and in the garden, three taps. Now I am burying a fiberglass tank with 4 m³ (5 yd³) under the greenhouse. I got it on eBay for 40 euros. Rented a trailer (25 euros) and picked it up myself.
You can never have enough water.

Steven
f-pNo5 Jul 2016 10:28
Steven schrieb:
Now I’m burying a fiberglass tank with 4m3 (4,000 liters) under the greenhouse. I got it on eBay for 40 euros. Rented a trailer (25 euros) and picked it up myself.

If you bury the tank under the greenhouse, are you also installing an electric pump here, or are you connecting a hand pump?
Is the fiberglass tank meant to collect the greenhouse’s roof drainage, or how will it be filled?
S
Steven
5 Jul 2016 10:47
Hello,
A simple barrel pump will be installed.
I open the valve and let the water run from the concrete cistern until the barrel is full. It’s mainly for reserve,

Steven