Hello everyone,
A friend has inherited a semi-detached house from the 1950s. The energy consumption per square meter is about 280 kWh (I assume this is actual consumption and not demand – depending on previous usage patterns, it might even be a bit higher). She is now considering which heating technology to use going forward. Currently, there is a 30-year-old gas heating system installed. A builder has recommended a wood stove with a water jacket. At first, I was skeptical, but I have to admit I don’t exactly understand how it works. What heats the water jacket? Is it connected to the existing heating system and feeds into the heating buffer tank, or is it a separate system?
There is wood available (inherited along with the house), but I’m not sure about the time or willingness to keep loading wood regularly. I’m also concerned that, due to the poor building envelope, the water jacket would have to be quite large to effectively support heating overnight, for example.
My gut feeling is that she should simply install a new gas condensing boiler.
Thanks for your opinions.
A friend has inherited a semi-detached house from the 1950s. The energy consumption per square meter is about 280 kWh (I assume this is actual consumption and not demand – depending on previous usage patterns, it might even be a bit higher). She is now considering which heating technology to use going forward. Currently, there is a 30-year-old gas heating system installed. A builder has recommended a wood stove with a water jacket. At first, I was skeptical, but I have to admit I don’t exactly understand how it works. What heats the water jacket? Is it connected to the existing heating system and feeds into the heating buffer tank, or is it a separate system?
There is wood available (inherited along with the house), but I’m not sure about the time or willingness to keep loading wood regularly. I’m also concerned that, due to the poor building envelope, the water jacket would have to be quite large to effectively support heating overnight, for example.
My gut feeling is that she should simply install a new gas condensing boiler.
Thanks for your opinions.
Feueronkel13 May 2016 10:53PS: Just as a side note, for those who have to buy their wood at a high cost, don’t have a forest nearby, and mainly want to enjoy a cozy fire, a gas fireplace can be a great option – clean and easy to control. Nowadays, the design is very advanced. Even the flame pattern and burning behavior can be adjusted, often now via smartphone app. You can search for "DRU Eco Z-Wave" for more information, here’s a video: [MEDIA=YouTube]6SGne6j8hBo[/MEDIA]. Although I’m a wood fireplace fan (not only professionally), I was initially very skeptical, but I have to admit that there are some really “cool” models available now, with little price difference compared to a traditional fireplace. It’s a great thing to come home, press a button or use your phone, and the fireplace is already burning... You don’t always have to squeeze out the last bit of efficiency – a bit more comfort and lifestyle is not a bad thing either.
There is definitely BAFA funding available for wood boilers or wood gasification boilers @ TE.
We also heated with a wood stove (workshop stove) this past winter. It has a 5 kW output and easily warmed the entire upper floor, with temperatures around 24/25°C (75/77°F) near the stove (thermometer is 4 m (13 ft) away), and comfortably reaching 22°C (72°F) in every corner. The upstairs area is 90 m² (970 ft²).
This was before the insulation was completed. I expect the stove will be too warm next winter. Then the pellet boiler will be used for heating.
Unfortunately, these wood stoves are not available with less than 5 kW output. Ours is already quite small, with a footprint of only 30 cm x 30 cm (12 inches x 12 inches). The pellet boilers are similar, even though they can modulate.
We also heated with a wood stove (workshop stove) this past winter. It has a 5 kW output and easily warmed the entire upper floor, with temperatures around 24/25°C (75/77°F) near the stove (thermometer is 4 m (13 ft) away), and comfortably reaching 22°C (72°F) in every corner. The upstairs area is 90 m² (970 ft²).
This was before the insulation was completed. I expect the stove will be too warm next winter. Then the pellet boiler will be used for heating.
Unfortunately, these wood stoves are not available with less than 5 kW output. Ours is already quite small, with a footprint of only 30 cm x 30 cm (12 inches x 12 inches). The pellet boilers are similar, even though they can modulate.
Feueronkel13 May 2016 15:58@Elina There are also control systems for wood stoves that regulate the burn rate. In my experience, most people tend to put too much wood on anyway (especially after a new chimney / stove has been installed).
Feueronkel13 May 2016 16:02PS: The size (30x30) doesn’t really matter, as we all know. Just kidding.
You can’t really expect fresh air regulation from a "workshop stove," of course.
You can’t really expect fresh air regulation from a "workshop stove," of course.
Feueronkel13 May 2016 16:14With a good stove or fireplace, it is possible to control the heat output by automatically regulating the fresh air intake from outside. In some stoves with built-in thermal mass (storage stone), the convection (warm air flow) can also be adjusted, allowing you, for example, to heat the thermal mass more and continue to use the stored heat even after the fire has burned down.
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Alpandian8913 May 2016 21:19Which stove without a water jacket do you recommend for an open living/dining area of about 45-50 m² (485-540 sq ft) in terms of kW output? The house will meet the KFW 55 standard.
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