Hello parquet enthusiasts,
we are building a one-and-a-half-story house and plan to install oak country-style plank flooring. We have a large L-shaped room for the living/dining area and open kitchen (about 60m² (645 sq ft)). We intend to install and glue the flooring ourselves. However, some craftsman friends strongly advised against doing it ourselves. We have installed laminate flooring several times before and feel confident about that. Does engineered wood flooring really have to be installed only by a professional?
We understand that an expansion joint will likely need to be incorporated (where the corner of the L is, or where the screed will have an expansion joint).
We would also be interested in your experiences with underfloor heating and mechanical ventilation with heat recovery regarding the lower indoor humidity. Because of these conditions, some specialists have advised us against parquet, as larger gaps can occur in winter, which is less suitable for wooden flooring.
Thank you for your feedback,
sunny84
we are building a one-and-a-half-story house and plan to install oak country-style plank flooring. We have a large L-shaped room for the living/dining area and open kitchen (about 60m² (645 sq ft)). We intend to install and glue the flooring ourselves. However, some craftsman friends strongly advised against doing it ourselves. We have installed laminate flooring several times before and feel confident about that. Does engineered wood flooring really have to be installed only by a professional?
We understand that an expansion joint will likely need to be incorporated (where the corner of the L is, or where the screed will have an expansion joint).
We would also be interested in your experiences with underfloor heating and mechanical ventilation with heat recovery regarding the lower indoor humidity. Because of these conditions, some specialists have advised us against parquet, as larger gaps can occur in winter, which is less suitable for wooden flooring.
Thank you for your feedback,
sunny84
S
Sebastian7926 Jan 2016 08:20EveundGerd schrieb:
I have never seen laminate flooring fade.I experienced this in my first apartment – the laminate was mid-range in price, but it was clearly visible when I moved out where a carpet had been placed.
EveundGerd26 Jan 2016 10:47Our laminate flooring, Merbau color - dark, in the living room with a four-meter (13 feet) window wall including a balcony door and exposure to sunlight until late evening, held up very well. When we sold the house, the floor still looked like new after 8 years.
At the time, it was purchased from a specialist retailer and cost around €35 per square meter (about $3.25 per square foot). So, it wasn’t very expensive.
It is still installed there today.
At the time, it was purchased from a specialist retailer and cost around €35 per square meter (about $3.25 per square foot). So, it wasn’t very expensive.
It is still installed there today.
nordanney schrieb:
Oak is no problem. Use a good quality adhesive, high-quality parquet flooring, the right filler, and you’re good to go.
We installed about 250 sqm (2,690 sq ft) of it, with almost no warping at 30% humidity.
Also, have the screed poured without an expansion joint (anhydrite screed), and it looks even better. Our combined living/dining/kitchen area is over 75 sqm (810 sq ft) with no expansion joint. We installed Haro Oak Barrique as wide plank flooring (expensive, but excellent), and a whitewashed variant in the children’s and study rooms.
Even three small children and a large Bernese Mountain Dog haven’t damaged the parquet after 1.5 years. Could you please post some pictures sometime showing the parquet installation (a photo of a large area)?
N
nordanney7 Feb 2016 18:11merlin83 schrieb:
Could you please post some pictures showing the parquet flooring installation (so, photos of a large area) when you have a chance? But it’s not tidy...
The area shown in the pictures is about 62m² (670 ft²) – a quick panorama with the tablet doesn’t really work...
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