Hello everyone,
we are planning to install 20mm (3/4 inch) thick oak floorboards in our new build. In various forums, especially recent posts, it is often mentioned that a floating installation is at least possible. However, despite thorough research, I haven’t found much concrete information.
A Dutch wood supplier apparently recommends a floating installation using spacer clips along the walls. However, this is said not to be ideal. Another system uses clips to attach the individual boards but is quite expensive.
I just want to glue the tongue and groove joints and otherwise keep the floor floating. The subfloor would consist of a vapor barrier and 3-5mm (1/8–3/16 inch) impact sound insulation.
Question for you:
Who has done or seen something like this before?
What are your experiences?
What conditions need to be met to make this work?
we are planning to install 20mm (3/4 inch) thick oak floorboards in our new build. In various forums, especially recent posts, it is often mentioned that a floating installation is at least possible. However, despite thorough research, I haven’t found much concrete information.
A Dutch wood supplier apparently recommends a floating installation using spacer clips along the walls. However, this is said not to be ideal. Another system uses clips to attach the individual boards but is quite expensive.
I just want to glue the tongue and groove joints and otherwise keep the floor floating. The subfloor would consist of a vapor barrier and 3-5mm (1/8–3/16 inch) impact sound insulation.
Question for you:
Who has done or seen something like this before?
What are your experiences?
What conditions need to be met to make this work?
N
nordanney26 Jan 2016 21:25Why do you want to install it as a floating floor? Do you have underfloor heating?
I would always fully glue down parquet or wooden planks when used with underfloor heating.
I would always fully glue down parquet or wooden planks when used with underfloor heating.
ölschlamm schrieb:
What conditions need to be met for something like this to succeed,definitely, you shouldn’t be completely unskilled... Joking aside, the question about why use a floating installation is quite valid, especially for owner-occupied homes. Floating hardwood flooring tends to develop squeaks over time and can sometimes make clicking noises when walked on. Otherwise, installation instructions can be found from the manufacturers; it’s clearly not rocket science.
To provide accurate advice, your information is unfortunately a bit sparse. What kind of hardwood flooring are we talking about?
a.) Solid wood planks?
b.) 2-layer engineered wood flooring?
c.) 3-layer engineered wood flooring?
In which pattern should the planks be installed?
Please forgive my remark, but I often find it quite tedious to have to extract all the details from the person asking the question. So, please formulate your question more precisely, and then help can be provided.
a.) Solid wood planks?
b.) 2-layer engineered wood flooring?
c.) 3-layer engineered wood flooring?
In which pattern should the planks be installed?
Please forgive my remark, but I often find it quite tedious to have to extract all the details from the person asking the question. So, please formulate your question more precisely, and then help can be provided.
I just saw the headline “Solid wood planks,” sorry.
It should be noted that the most common and also the most sustainable method is to glue the planks down. There is also a method where the planks are held together with stainless steel clips, and another using an adhesive mat that also serves as impact sound insulation, on which the planks are laid. Furthermore, the planks can be screwed into the tongue joint if the subfloor is suitable.
In your case, the most elegant method seems to be installing the planks with clips, although this is more expensive. Make sure to leave sufficient space from the wall. Ideally, allow 10 mm (0.4 inches) per 1 meter (3.3 feet) of installation width. This is necessary because the planks expand and contract across their width. Also, make sure to glue only the end joints, never the long edges, as this will inevitably cause cracks.
Room temperature and humidity are also important factors for a successful installation. Ideally, the humidity should be between 50% and 65%, and the installation temperature around 20° Celsius (68°F). It is also important that the planks acclimate before installation, meaning they should be left in their packaging in the room for at least 2 days. Another point is to always mix planks from different packages during installation.
So, is this enough information for a start?
It should be noted that the most common and also the most sustainable method is to glue the planks down. There is also a method where the planks are held together with stainless steel clips, and another using an adhesive mat that also serves as impact sound insulation, on which the planks are laid. Furthermore, the planks can be screwed into the tongue joint if the subfloor is suitable.
In your case, the most elegant method seems to be installing the planks with clips, although this is more expensive. Make sure to leave sufficient space from the wall. Ideally, allow 10 mm (0.4 inches) per 1 meter (3.3 feet) of installation width. This is necessary because the planks expand and contract across their width. Also, make sure to glue only the end joints, never the long edges, as this will inevitably cause cracks.
Room temperature and humidity are also important factors for a successful installation. Ideally, the humidity should be between 50% and 65%, and the installation temperature around 20° Celsius (68°F). It is also important that the planks acclimate before installation, meaning they should be left in their packaging in the room for at least 2 days. Another point is to always mix planks from different packages during installation.
So, is this enough information for a start?
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