Hello,
here I would like to share some experiences and data regarding my brine heat pump and deep drilling, based in part on the expert’s "questionnaire":
a) What is the soil composition on your property?
Up to 3m (10 feet) silty, fine sandy, clayey soil
Up to 4m (13 feet) slope debris, rock fragments
Then bedrock (mainly limestone)
b) How deep was the drilling?
Drilled twice to a depth of 72m (236 feet)
c) How much did the drilling cost?
€10,400 including double U-probes DN25
Grouting material with 2.0 W/mK thermal conductivity
Permitting process (building permit / planning permission)
Pressure-tight house entry at the basement and underground routing of supply lines (about 25m (82 feet))
Filling/draining equipment, filling, pressure testing, etc. (all inclusive)
d) How much did the system cost?
System: Tecalor TTc 05 with heating output at B0/W35 of 5.8 kW and coefficient of performance (COP) of 4.8
Cost: €9,800
e) Were there any difficulties during installation, if so, what kind?
Because the water used to flush out the drilled material during drilling seeped away, a "small compressor" was needed to blow it out with air. However, it had to be placed on a neighbor’s property who had not yet started building. The machine was the size and approximate weight of a 20-ton truck but was off-road capable. This caused a 2-day delay because the compressor first had to be transported to our site. No additional costs were charged.
f) How is the daily operation?
"Like a refrigerator." Once the parameters on the heating system are correctly set, the only thing that should be done is occasionally reading the information/data such as operating hours and source temperature. Otherwise, it runs "on its own," just like any heating system. When the door is closed, the unit is virtually inaudible. Very discreet since, apart from the cabinet in the utility room, nothing else is visible (all brine pipes are underground).
e) What are the operating costs for which living area?
Currently, a living area of 180sqm (1937 sqft) is heated, plus an additional 65sqm (700 sqft) of cellar space within the insulated thermal envelope (these rooms are around 15-16°C (59-61°F) on the coldest days). From September 2014 to September 2015, 2,000 kWh of electricity was consumed for heating and hot water (2 adults, 1 baby, 1 toddler). The house is a KfW-70 standard building according to the 2009 energy saving regulations, which already met the required technical standards before the central ventilation system with enthalpy heat exchanger was installed (we decided to add this after the initial applications).
f) to be continued ....
Note regarding the comparison of the coefficient of performance (COP):
Since optimizing the heating curve and settings at the end of last year, the system has had a COP of about 5.5. Operating hours are around 1200; the deep borehole was drilled approximately 20% deeper than initially recommended by the companies, at our own request.
here I would like to share some experiences and data regarding my brine heat pump and deep drilling, based in part on the expert’s "questionnaire":
a) What is the soil composition on your property?
Up to 3m (10 feet) silty, fine sandy, clayey soil
Up to 4m (13 feet) slope debris, rock fragments
Then bedrock (mainly limestone)
b) How deep was the drilling?
Drilled twice to a depth of 72m (236 feet)
c) How much did the drilling cost?
€10,400 including double U-probes DN25
Grouting material with 2.0 W/mK thermal conductivity
Permitting process (building permit / planning permission)
Pressure-tight house entry at the basement and underground routing of supply lines (about 25m (82 feet))
Filling/draining equipment, filling, pressure testing, etc. (all inclusive)
d) How much did the system cost?
System: Tecalor TTc 05 with heating output at B0/W35 of 5.8 kW and coefficient of performance (COP) of 4.8
Cost: €9,800
e) Were there any difficulties during installation, if so, what kind?
Because the water used to flush out the drilled material during drilling seeped away, a "small compressor" was needed to blow it out with air. However, it had to be placed on a neighbor’s property who had not yet started building. The machine was the size and approximate weight of a 20-ton truck but was off-road capable. This caused a 2-day delay because the compressor first had to be transported to our site. No additional costs were charged.
f) How is the daily operation?
"Like a refrigerator." Once the parameters on the heating system are correctly set, the only thing that should be done is occasionally reading the information/data such as operating hours and source temperature. Otherwise, it runs "on its own," just like any heating system. When the door is closed, the unit is virtually inaudible. Very discreet since, apart from the cabinet in the utility room, nothing else is visible (all brine pipes are underground).
e) What are the operating costs for which living area?
Currently, a living area of 180sqm (1937 sqft) is heated, plus an additional 65sqm (700 sqft) of cellar space within the insulated thermal envelope (these rooms are around 15-16°C (59-61°F) on the coldest days). From September 2014 to September 2015, 2,000 kWh of electricity was consumed for heating and hot water (2 adults, 1 baby, 1 toddler). The house is a KfW-70 standard building according to the 2009 energy saving regulations, which already met the required technical standards before the central ventilation system with enthalpy heat exchanger was installed (we decided to add this after the initial applications).
f) to be continued ....
Note regarding the comparison of the coefficient of performance (COP):
Since optimizing the heating curve and settings at the end of last year, the system has had a COP of about 5.5. Operating hours are around 1200; the deep borehole was drilled approximately 20% deeper than initially recommended by the companies, at our own request.
B
Bieber081510 Nov 2015 07:24Saruss schrieb:
Cold (preferably dry) air is best for drying. Hot (dry) air, if your statement is meant to apply generally. I am not very familiar with the specific case of screed drying and do not know which conditions need to be met.
Definitely ask the heating company whether and how the screed heating can be operated with the heat pump – and with which settings (e.g., continuous operation of the heating element, etc.). There is a defined annual heat extraction capacity. If this is significantly exceeded and the system was designed exactly (as it ideally should be) or just adequately, the probes could potentially be damaged.
B
Bieber081510 Nov 2015 21:32Saruss schrieb:
cold dry air heats up So it’s warm after all, phew, glad to hear that. We agree. The rest is also correct: it’s cheaper to heat dry air than moist air. And cold air contains less water than warm air at the same relative humidity... However, the higher the temperature of the drying air, the faster the drying process. This effect has a much greater impact than the relative humidity of the fresh, not yet warmed drying air.
Bieber0815 schrieb:
So it’s warm, phew, lucky us . We agree. The rest is also correct: it’s cheaper to heat dry air than moist air. And cold air contains less water at the same relative humidity compared to warm air ... However, the higher the temperature of the drying air, the faster the drying process. This effect is significantly more important than the relative humidity of the fresh, not yet warmed drying air.Well, you also need to exchange the air because it becomes humid during drying. It’s not just about drying, but about removing potentially many hundreds of liters of water, and air doesn’t hold that much moisture after all. When you heat cold air, you get especially dry, warm air; especially since here in Germany, when it’s warm, the relative humidity is usually quite high (also this summer with values mostly above 60%). So for drying, cold autumn or spring weather is actually best here. Because when you warm 8°C (46°F) air at 60% relative humidity to 30°C (86°F), the relative humidity drops to a good 17%, allowing the air to absorb a lot of moisture.
What I’m also interested in is the maintenance costs...
How high are they?
How often does maintenance need to be carried out?
In another thread, I read something about 250 EUR per year.
I can hardly imagine what could be maintained for 250 EUR. Heating system installers always argue with "almost" no maintenance costs, don’t they?!
How high are they?
How often does maintenance need to be carried out?
In another thread, I read something about 250 EUR per year.
I can hardly imagine what could be maintained for 250 EUR. Heating system installers always argue with "almost" no maintenance costs, don’t they?!